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Whoops! I promised I would post the remainder of Tess Dingle’s ND informative article about sunscreens and haven’t until now. The second half of this article really gets into the nitty-gritty of sunscreen ingredients. This means that you will know what you are looking at when you read the chemical names on the back of a sunscreen bottle and more importantly which of those are good, bad or downright ugly! Useful information indeed!

SUNSCREENS…The good, the bad and the ugly (Part 2)

by Tess Dingle ND

The second half of this article looks at some sunscreen agents commonly in use:

Octyl Methoxycinnamate and other cinnamates cause photo and contact allergy and do not effectively block UVA. We must ask, what is the point of using a sunscreen agent that causes allergy in the presence of sunlight?

Benzophenones/oxybenzone/benzoylmethanes do absorb some UVA radiation but have been found to cause photo/contact allergy and most significantly, they tend to imitate and therefore exacerbate existing skin disease (including acne).

Titanium dioxide effectively blocks out UVA radiation and therefore protects against skin cancer. Although this is also a photon scattering agent (UV reflector), it does absorb UV radiation which produces free radicals in the presence of water. Many manufacturers use different methods to “coat” the particles, making them less reactive.

Salicylates commonly cause photo allergy.

PABA (Paramino benzoic acid) is part of the B group of vitamins. Taken internally, it can help prevent UV damage. Used externally, it causes phototoxicity and sensitisation. PABA generates free radicals when exposed to sunlight, predisposing the skin to cancer. It does not effectively block UVA radiation.  It is banned as a sunscreen agent in Australia.

Zinc oxide effectively blocks out UVA radiation, has the benefit of being inert on the skin (it does not absorb UV radiation) and has skin healing properties. It does, however, contain large particles and can form a paste when applied to the skin. The finer the zinc particles, the less visible they are on the skin. Micronised superfine zinc is the best choice for minimizing the “paste-effect” without resorting to nanoparticles.

Iron oxide is found naturally in mineral clays, which have an ochre colour due to the ferrous (iron) content. Due to the large particle size, iron oxide also acts as a UV reflector and is inert in the sun (does not produce free radicals). Natural mineral clays also contain varying proportions of other UV protectors such as titania.

It must also be noted that this discussion of the active constituents in sunscreens is academic without paying respect to the ingredients in the carrier or base formulation. Do they cause free radical damage themselves and in particular, how well do they stand up to sun exposure?

There are instances of people using sunscreens who have reacted to the excipients (base materials/carriers) included in the formulation, such as preservatives, fragrances and emulsifiers, which have caused contact allergies. So there is cause for concern not only about the active ingredients in sunscreens, but about the inert ingredients as well. Ed note: I don’t know about anyone else but standard sunscreens make my eyes sting and water particularly after swimming in the surf. I worked out that for me, it is probably the product fragrance that is causing this effect. In any case, it has been a long time since I have used a conventional sunscreen as I prefer to stick to zinc oxide based products.

There are a number of base ingredients to look for such as antioxidant vitamins C and E at effective concentrations. Vitamins C and E (tocopherol) are known to protect against skin cancer, particularly when applied topically as they prevent free radical damage from UV radiation. Certified organic shea butter, sesame and avocado oils have natural UV protective qualities, primarily due to their vitamin A and E content. Shea butter also protects against burning (UVB radiation) and is an excellent emollient, softening the skin and preventing the formation of wrinkles. Aloe vera, a plant which has been shown to prevent DNA damage to the skin following sun exposure and its use in treating burns of all descriptions is well-known and an excellent inclusion as a base ingredient. Antioxidant medicinal strength herbal extracts of ginkgo biloba, green tea and pomegranate are also excellent for their ability to protect against DNA damage from UV radiation.

Related Articles:

• Sunscreens…The good, the bad and the ugly (Part 1)
• Nanoparticles – Serious Safety Issues

Is your skin ready for summer? Summer is a time for sun, increased exercise and outdoor activity. After months of jackets and long pants, our skin needs a little bit of care before exposure to the Australian Summer sun. Advance preparation is a good idea before you pull out your summer clothing and expose your skin. Follow these guidelines so you are ready to smartly and safely enjoy the sun and make the most of your skin this season.

• Moisture is essential

It is important to remember that skin behaves differently from season to season and so your skin care routine should change to suit the difference in weather. In many parts of Australia there are effectively only 2 seasons: dry and humid. Our skin reacts dramatically to changes in humidity and so using the same skin care routine all year round will not help maintain well hydrated skin.

As the humidity rises in summer so does the moisture content in our skin. This is great for those who tend to dry or dehydrated skin types. Skin will feel more supple and hydrated. For those with normal to oily skin, you will notice that oil production increases in the warmer months and if not careful, skin congestion may increase.

During the summer months all skin types require lighter moisturisers. It is best to avoid moisturisers rich in waxes and butters and favour lighter lotions as these will provide adequate moisture content without causing congestion. Depending on skin type, it is also a good idea to change your cleanser from a cream cleanser to a light foaming cleanser or gel (avoid cleansers containing sodium laurel suphate) as they tend to more effective for removing built up sebum (oil) as well as daily grime and pollution.

For those with normal to oily skin, use cleansing masks and gentle exfoliation to reduce the likelihood of blocked pores and congestion. For those with dehydrated skin use a night oil based serum followed by a lighter day moisturiser. This will ensure adequate skin hydration without resorting to heavy creams more suited to the cooler, drier months.

Remember, part of an effective skin care routine includes changing to suit the seasons.

• Remove Dead Skin Cells

In winter, our skin is largely covered up and so we tend to give it less care and attention. For this reason, summer skin preparation should always include full body exfoliation. Our bodies shed dead skin cells constantly which his results in a layer of dead skin cells. This layer of cells leaves your skin looking dull, dry and sometimes scaly. Applying moisturisers won’t help create glowing skin unless you remove the dead top layer and in fact, moisturisers won’t even penetrate the skin effectively until the dead cells are removed.

A good broad sun hat (rather than a cap) will help protect you from sun damage

To exfoliate your skin effectively you can use an exfoliation mitt in the shower, a dry skin brush or a body scrub. Use a gentle circular motion on your entire body from the shoulders down and once complete, rinse clean (use a specific face exfoliator for your face and neck). Follow with moisturiser. Continue once or twice a week throughout the summer season and it will help maintain fresh, glowing skin.

• Slip slop slap

The best anti-aging advice you will ever hear is to wear sunscreen. And yet, on any summer’s day at the beach you will still see Australians baking themselves under the harsh midday sun. If you want a glowing tan during summer there are alternative ways to achieve this look without damaging your skin. We will look at these options below. Firstly, when it comes to preventing sun damage there are some important things to remember:

• When buying sunscreen, the Sun Protection Factor measures how effectively the product limits exposure to UVB rays. The higher the SPF, the more protection against UVB rays. Choose an SPF 30+. If you spend time in the midday Australian sun and use any less than SPF 30 and you risk damaging your skin. This causes both an increased risk of sun cancer as well as promoting accelerated skin aging.
• Apply sunscreen evenly all over your face and the exposed parts of your body. While it may sounds obvious, we often miss bits or spread the lotion too thinly over our skin to provide effective protection.
• By the time you feel the heat of the sun, your skin is already burning so apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go out into the sun.
• There are a number of natural sunscreen alternatives now available. These products use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide based sunfilters which sit on the surface of the skin rather than being absorbed.
• Most importantly, don’t forget to wear a hat and cover up with light coloured clothing. Sunscreen lotions will do part of the job at protecting your skin but remember, they are not filtering UVA rays so you need to stay sun smart and keep your skin protected.

Avoid sunburn!

A glowing tan is something that many Australians aspire to but in reality you are best to learn to love the colour of skin you were born with. There is no such thing as healthy tanning, however, if you plan to be out in the sun this summer, slowly introducing your skin to the sun is a good idea. Sun exposure in the early mornings and late afternoons allows your skin to gradually build up some colour without burning. Twenty minutes is enough time. Remember by the time your skin starts to feel hot, it is already burnt.

Faking it! If you decide to use fake tan, choose a natural one. In the last few years a number of all natural fake tanning lotions have emerged on the market and provide a healthier skin choice than synthetic chemical products. If you choose to fake tan, remember that you still need to apply sunscreen!

• Drink plenty of Water

Water is essential for not only providing hydration to our internal organs but also for maintaining skin hydration. Increased sweating, exercise and outdoor activities mean that in the warmer months we can dehydrate quite quickly. By the time you register that you feel thirst, it is likely that you are already slightly dehydrated. The best way to avoid this is to sip water throughout the day ensuring your fluid levels are being continuously topped up. Invest in a good quality water bottle (avoid soft plastic as it leaches chemicals into the water) and take it with you so that you always have water on hand. Adequate hydration is an essential way to maintain skin vitality.

• Nutrition

Rainbow Foods

During the warmer months, we tend to want less hot, stodgy food and prefer lighter meals such as fresh fruit, salads, wraps, juices. When we eat, our body temperature increases and warm food will add to this effect. Raw and fresh foods will help keep us cooler during the summer months. Concentrate on colourful fruit and vegetables, lean protein and good oils as the basis of your summer eating. Not only are these foods ideal for the skin, supplying essential antioxidants and reducing inflammation, they are also sources of essential nutrition for the rest of your body.

• Supplements for Skin health

There are a number of supplements that help provide optimal nutrition and maintain skin health year around…and not just during the summer months!

Beta-carotene – is the orange pigment found in carrots and green leafy vegetables. It is a powerful antioxidant and research has shown that it can help minimise the effect of certain free radicals induced by UV radiation from sunlight. Regular consumption of beta-carotene or beta-carotene rich foods can help to reduce skin aging from sun exposure. Dosage recommendation: 30mg Beta-carotene or mixed carotenoids per day.

Zinc – a deficiency of zinc can lead to skin problems and delayed wound healing. Zinc is essential for the cell division and protein synthesis so helps maintain skin integrity and resilience. Unless you have a skin condition or have low zinc levels, the zinc provided in an everyday multivitamin should be enough to support skin health (about 5-10mg per day)

Internal lubrication for your skin

Fish Oil – helps to maintain skin suppleness and elasticity as well as keeping a check on inflammatory processes. It is particularly useful to help manage inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and dry skin in general. For skin conditions 4-6g of fish oil per day is required. For maintenance and to help minimise dry skin, 1-2g per day is sufficient.

Grapeseed Extract – another powerful skin antioxidant, research shows that grapeseed extract enhances capillary strength and vascular function, reduces allergic and inflammatory responses in the skin and also reduces skin aging and the loss of elasticity. Dosage recommendation is 6-12g of Grapeseed extract per day.

Vitamin C – is an important antioxidant, quenching free radicals that cause skin aging. Vitamin C is also essential for collagen synthesis. Collagen provides the foundation matrix for cartilage, epethielial skin cells and connective tissue. When applied to the skin, Vitamin C stimulates cell renewal, collagen and elastin production and increases healthy circulation. Suggested dosage: 1000mg per day or as a topical application.

Summer is a time for fun in the sun. You can stay sun smart this summer and with these tips you can maintain healthy skin throughout the season.

In the last 2 week I have had numerous queries about the use of nanoparticles in sunscreens. Nanoparticle is a general term that is used to describe substances and process that are smaller than 100 nanometers (nm). The nanoparticles used in sunscreens are from 20 to 30 nm making the zinc oxide or titanium dioxide invisible to the naked eye. Unlike traditional zinc oxide products which can leave an opaque white coat on the surface of the skin, nanoparticles rub in clear.

The issue with the use of nanoparticles in sunscreens is that when exposed to

Use of nanoparticles is associated with potential skin damage

UV light (sunlight) the ingredients produce dangerous free radicals, cause DNA damage and cell toxicity. In addition, research suggests that the penetration of nanoparticles is greater when skin is damaged or thinner eg. eczema, acne, sunburnt skin, babies and the elderly. While is no clear outcome as to what this means for human skin however, the likely outcome is ongoing damage.

Research is ongoing, however the above information does suggest we should treat nano-sunscreens with extreme caution until we know they’re safe. At this stage no labeling is required for nanoparticles in cosmetics. To set your mind at rest, our Third Stone Botanicals and Devita products with sun protection use micro particles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Micro particles are considered safe as they do not penetrate the skin surface.

See the video blog below for more information about the difference between nano and micro particles and how to avoid nanoparticles in your cosmetics.

For more information and a full report go to Friends of the Earth.