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ED note: In this article by Tarj Mavi, she questions the use of AHAs for younger skin (ie. women & men in their 20s). This is interesting as in previous blogs I have said that I am a fan of AHAs and think they are great

for congested skin (still waiting to see if they work for me on pigmentation). The other thing to note is that AHAs should not be used continuously which is the mistake I think many companies make when promoting AHA products designed for daily use. For more informaition about this have a look at my previous blog on this topic. For my 2 cents, I am still a fan of AHAs when used appropriately. In any case I thought I would give you the opportunity to read what Tarj has to say which is a very different view point and of course I would love to read about your experiences using AHAs so please comment!

The Anti Aging Obsession – when should we start? By Tarj Mavi

It is not surprising that women of all ages are becoming increasingly aware of societies perception of growing old and we are PETRIFIED almost so that it’s bordering on insanity. Everyone is so worried that once the first signs of wrinkles or age spots appear we rush out and buy the strongest anti ageing treatment we can find hoping results will appear within the next couple of days, not giving a second thoughts to the possible side effects. As we repeatedly hear and read about Hollywood elite’s obsession with ageing and dieting we look for more permanent and sometimes damaging ways to erase ageing altogether. Even Scarlett Johansson at 25 who has been nominated the world’s sexiest women numerous times, has become so paranoid about her weight and complexion that she’s already been using anti ageing products since she hit 20.

In response to this ageing mania – The today show aired a segment this morning suggesting that young women who use anti ageing products could potentially be accelerating the ageing process rather than preventing/slowing it. The show discussed how the production of skin cells decreases with age. Products containing retinoids or alpha hydoxy acid compounds (glycolic and malic acids) purposely destroy skin cells to break down a layer of skin to help increase the speed of cell renewal and even out uneven skin tone in older women. However, if you’re constantly breaking down the natural, water-retaining protective layers of the skin; younger skin doesn’t have the strength to withstand the additional environmental factors and can react harmfully.

Younger skin is more sensitive than older skin. It is more susceptible to react badly to stronger ingredients like AHA’s, sometimes resulting in irritation, increased dryness and hence becoming more prone to sun damage. So if someone starts using products containing retinoids or AHA’s before their 25, you can ironically cause many of the problems that you’re trying to avert.

After the show a La Mav customer called me extremely concerned that at 26 she was damaging her skin. But you do NOT have to be concerned – safety was my number 1 concern when I started creating La Mav. I wanted to create a product that was not only age defying but that had the hydrating

capabilities to be used on all skin types and on all ages so that no matter the condition of the skin La Mav will work for you. For me anti ageing is about nourishing the skin to repair and maintain skin’s condition through constant hydration and rejuvenation. While none of La Mav products contain retinoids or alpha hydoxy acid compounds they are instead formulated with real, natural & potent active ingredients that increase firmness and elasticity of your skin with soothing & hydrating properties. Regardless of whether you’re 22, 26, 46 or 56 you can use La Mav with the assurance that your skin is getting the nutrients it needs to restore skin’s natural glow.

So when is the best time to start using an anti wrinkle cream?? It really depends on the individual and their skin type & condition – as many different factors play a role in the skin’s composition and overall elasticity. Some people should start using it as soon as they reach their 20’s, while others can wait until their 30’s.

Ed note: This article is from the La Mav blog and is by Tarj Mavi, the creator of this wonderful brand. I have included it because it describes the 3 tier process Tarj uses to formulate her products and is the reason these products are so very effective. There will be more on this concept in up coming blogs:

An aging population – by Tarj Mavi

By 2020 more than half of our country’s population will be over the age of 40 and there will be more people aged 50 than any other age. Due to these startling statistics anti-ageing skin care products are becoming all the rage – there are even special diets, super foods and supplements all intended to reduce or reverse the things that we’re told time and again were inevitable: wrinkles, sagging (especially around the chin) and age spots (I’m getting depressed just thinking about it).

The main reason the skin starts to sag and forms wrinkles is that elastin and collagen network start to break down. Collagen and elastin are important proteins in the body that help the skin stay firm, supple and strong and without them, the skin loses its elasticity, forms lines, wrinkles and eventually sags (gloomy and dismal but true). Exposure to the sun and pollution can also cause further damage to your skin.

More and more attention is being centred on the ageing population and consequently many skin care companies are madly racing to flood retail shelves both online and offline without doing the necessary research before. As a result many products on the market don’t contain or don’t contain enough active ingredients to actually have long term and effective results on ageing skin. For a skin care product to be effective it must contain active ingredients that help to stimulate the skin’s repair process.

Every single ingredient that goes in La Mav products is selected on the basis of its properties to formulate the best skincare range for your ageing skin with high concentration of active ingredients to successfully aid in increasing elasticity and firmness of the skin. All of our products follow the unique La Mav Three Tier Formula™:

· Tier 3 – Active Constituents

· Tier 2 – Specialty Oils

· Tier 1 – Base Ingredients

The unique Three-Tier Formula™ consists of antioxidants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, therapeutic grade herbal extracts, carrier oils and very gentle and soothing Essential Oils that provide a potent, result-driven concentration for the repair, restoration and rejuvenation of skin at a cellular level.

La Mav is formulated with nutrients for the skin that your pores will drink up and use to produce & support new collagen and elastin fibres. When you use La Mav products your skin will start to look younger, healthier and more radiant so that maybe the next time a shop assistant tells you that your daughter looks like your sister, you will believe her.

I have always been curious about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). While there was lots of good research around about their benefits there was also some about their potential side effects. So it has been an ingredient I have treated with caution and before I researched the ingredient, some suspicion. I think I am a bit of a cynic – I have to know about an ingredient before I am ready to embrace it. I also don’t like to leave stones unturned so when I realised the potential benefits of AHAs, I decided to give them a try. Who better to try it out on than myself? So this is part one of a blog about “My AHA Experiment”. The next installment will come at the end of 6 months.

AHAs (I use this term to cover BHAs or beta hydroxy acids as well) have a two fold effect. The first thing they do is reduce congestion – woopee, I need some of that! You can see the effects of this action relatively quickly (i.e. 10 days to 3 weeks). The second is to reduce sun damage and improve skin texture. According to clinical skin trials, this takes up to 6 months. I have been using the Devita AHA product for about 5 weeks now and I review the product as well as talk about the benefits and potential issues with the use of AHAs. So installment one of “My AHA Experiment” is below. I will get back to you with an update…in about 5 months time!

“My AHA Experiment”

Click here to view Devita AHAs

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Topical Slow Aging Ingredients

Following on from previous blog about slow aging ingredients, I thought I would discuss in greater depth the benefits of topical vitamin C serum. Vitamin C serum is one of my favorite slow aging ingredients for a number of reasons: the research is there to back up the proported benefits, it is a natural ingredient and I have seen it work on my own skin. Specifically I noticed decreased flushing indicating it had worked to strengthen the capillaries in my skin and improved skin tone. I was really pleased with the outcome as I tend to flush easily and get blotchy skin (when I have wine or hot showers, eat spicy or fatty foods, eat too much sugar, sit in air-conditioning or heating, when I get too much sun and oh so many other things…). In the video I discuss how vitamin C works to achieve this result.

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Topical Ingredients for Slow Aging

Every season new anti-aging products are launched and promoted as the new generation of slow aging. The question is “how do we know it works”? The gold standard of proof is a human clinical trial showing evidence of skin improvement however most topical ingredients have very limited research to back them up. This article looks at 4 ingredients that are commonly used in “anti-aging” products, the research that supports them and how to use them to greatest effect.

Vitamin C – Vitamin C has numerous slow aging

benefits: it works within the skin to promote collagen production by stimulating the genes that make collagen and stopping the enzyme that degrades it, it is an antioxidant and so reduces free-radical production in the skin, it also provides photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, works to lighten hyperpigmentation and may also assist with the reduction of inflammation in inflammatory skin disorders.

Some great benefits however vitamin C is highly unstable in its natural form ascorbic acid and so it is advisable to only use stabilised forms such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate. Even so, vitamin C in these forms must be kept away from direct sunlight and used once opened otherwise they are prone to oxidation and stop being effective.

In addition, vitamin C absorbs into the skin very slowly and so higher concentrations are required for the above benefits. Look for products that contain 10-20% vitamin C as any less will not be effective. They also need to be acidic in form which is one of the factors that promotes an added exfoliation effect. Buffered vitamin C forms are less effective so make sur that your product has a pH of less than 3.8. If the pH and vitamin C concentration are not supplied with the product, ask your supplier before purchase to ensure you get the desired effects.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHAs/PHAs will help slow aging by revitalising the topmost layer of skin. This effect is achieved by AHAs clearing dead skin cells, thinning the strata corneum thereby exposing newer skin cells, improving the quality of elastic fibres, increasing the density of collagen and stimulating the production of collagen. The net result is an anti-wrinkle effect and a reduction in signs of photoaging.

Most over the counter AHA products contain concentrations of 8-15% which promote visible results over time. However, concentrations lower than 8% do not show significant benefit and products such as cleansers and everyday moisturisers that list AHAs are unlikely to contain enough to make a significant difference.

The anti-wrinkle effect of AHAs is achieved by removing the top layer of dead skin cells (stratum corneum) however it also removes valuable antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and E and may also increases sun sensitivity. These side effects need to be countered by using sunscreen during the day and applying an antioxidant rich moisturiser following use of AHAs.

Due to their acidic nature AHA’s produce a tingling sensation on the skin. This effect is a sign that the product is working to exfoliate the top layers of skin. The exfoliation is gradual and results can be expected after 3 months of use. However, ongoing use of AHAs may have a mild dehydrating effect on the skin due to the potential for water loss as the strata corneum is thinned. To counter this effect, use AHAs for 2-3 months then take a break of 2-3 months.

Copper Peptides – Copper peptides emerged as a skin treatment product in the 70s when it was found to significantly stimulate skin wound healing. This end is achieved by promoting normal collagen growth rather than the abnormal collagen growth found in scar tissue. While these results were achieved with wound healing more recent use has shown that copper peptides may also have a collagen regenerating effect on normal skin. In particular, they can help repair skin after exfoliation (seen as controlled skin damage), minimise the daily assaults from sun damage and pollution and reduce skin inflammation which is significantly associated with hastening the aging process.

While copper peptides have a good safety and efficacy profile, there are some notes of caution related to using copper peptides. Again, with copper peptides, as with AHA’s more is not always better. Taking a break after 2-3 months is advisable as too much copper can have an irritating and pro-oxidant effect. In addition copper peptides are made less effective in an acidic environment so it is best to use them away from AHAs, vitamin C and retanoids.

Plant antioxidants – The most common significant finding for antioxidants of plant origin such as the catechins present in green tea, curcumin from the curry spice turmeric and apigenin present in many fruits and vegetables, is

that they reduce the effects of UV damage in the skin.

For example studies using 10% green tea extract have shown that it works to minimise sun damage by reducing the production of free radicals and inflammation that result from exposure to UV rays. Apart from free radical damage, inflammation is a potential driver of premature skin ageing. Green tea would therefore be a useful addition to a sunscreen or daily moisturiser as it will provide an additional protective effective aside from the SPF factor. Please keep in mind, green tea is in no way a substitute for SPF rather it works by supporting the skins resistance to sun damage.

The unknown factor associated with the use of polyphenols and many other new topical ingredients is that unless a human clinical trial has been conducted, the concentration of the active ingredient required in the cream is unknown. Adding minute amounts of an extract to make a label claim may be beneficial from a marketing perspective but it doesn’t promote skin rejuvenation or slow skin aging.

When choosing a slow aging product for your skin, ensure that you choose those with a high enough concentration of the active ingredient where it is known and otherwise, that it is in at least the top 2/3 of the ingredient listing. Ingredients in the last 1/3 of the label listing are included in very small quantities. Alternatively, if an ingredient is touted as the active in a product then the concentration may be listed on the label. If in doubt, ask the retailer or manufacturer for this information.

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Aging – Does Diet Make a Difference

Anti Aging Skin Care – More than just Vitamin A

The simple answer is yes. Environmental factors, nutritional status and dietary intake more than genes can add years to a person’s appearance. While topical applications make a difference, a healthy glow is more often a sign of internal health than anything else. There is a growing body of evidence to show that what we eat certainly influences skin aging and not surprisingly, the dietary correlations that relate to reduced skin aging also relate to reduced aging in general. Apart from dietary interventions, research is showing that supplementation with specific nutrients and antioxidants supports the use of topical anti-aging products and that in fact the combination is more effective than either treatment alone. Below is a review of the most significant dietary and nutritional influences on aging.

An Australian study at Monash University looked at the effects of food and nutrient intake on skin wrinkling in areas exposed to the sun. The participants were from Melbourne, Greece and Sweden.

Food intake questionnaires were used to measure diet and microphotography of the skin was used to measure skin wrinkling. The study showed that Swedish had the least skin wrinkling, followed by Greeks and Australians had the most. The types of foods consumed did have an effect on the degree of skin wrinkling with more damage seen in those with a higher intake of meat, dairy and butter. Foods that had a protective effect against skin wrinkling included vegetables, legumes, olive oil, tea, prunes and apples (see full list below). Overall, positive dietary habits trended towards a low-GI diet.

Another study supports the above food associations showing that skin wrinkling in a sun-exposed site in older people of various ethnic backgrounds may be influenced reducing intakes of fats and carbohydrates and increasing antioxidants and beneficial fats, dietary measures which are associated with better skin-aging appearance.

It is worth noting that research linking skin aging and dietary habits should not be taken out of context. Overall dietary trends produce these effects rather than any single food group in isolation. However, the dietary trends in both studies show that high GI and saturated fats seem to have the most significant pro-wrinkling effect. Due to their higher saturated fat content meat, dairy and butter can increase skin inflammation and lead to faster skin aging. In addition a high sugar intake is also associated with greater skin wrinkling. Simple sugar has a pro-inflammatory effect but it also promotes the production of advanced glycosylation end products (AGE). AGEs are closely associated with oxidative stress. A combination of a high antioxidant diet and low sugar reduces inflammation, free radical damage and AGE production in the body. Again the trend shows that the protective foods are low or have no saturated fats and are low GI and rich in phytochemicals which support skin collagen and reduce inflammation.

The Monash study indicated that these foods associated with less wrinkling:

• Mono-unsaturated fat including those from olive oil and olives
• Nuts and legumes
• Vegetables
• Fish (particularly those rich in essential fatty acids)
• Low fat milk and milk products, such as yogurt
• Wholegrain cereals
• Fruit and fruit products (especially prunes, cherries and apples)
• Eggs
• Tea and Water

More wrinkling was associated with diets that included higher intakes of:

• Saturated fat (including butter)
• Trans fats (including margarine)
• Meat (especially fatty processed meats)
• Full fat dairy products
• Refined carbohydrates and sugars such as cakes, pastries and desserts
• Soft drinks and cordials
• Confectionary of any kind
• Many packaged and processed foods contain hidden sugars
• Packaged cereals

Apart from dietary trends, certain nutrients also show promising effects on skin aging. Studies have shown that antioxidant nutrients, specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids, exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin, in particular photoprotective effects. That is they help protect the skin from the oxidative damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health. In fact, taking carotenoids prior to sun exposure will increase the depth and lasting effect of a sun tan (not that extended tanning is advised).

In other research, a daily dosage of soy isoflavones (40mg per day) resulted in the improvement of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity after 12 weeks of supplementation in middle-aged women with aged skin. Interestingly, a common arthritis supplement glucosamine also improved the appearance of visible wrinkles and fine lines. Glucosamine is incorporated into glucosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the body. GAGs work to increase epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin although they have no effect on skin hydration.

Research into oral proanthocyanidins flavanoids from grapeseed extract or pycnogenol has shown they both have a significant protective effect on the collagen matrix of the skin and capillaries. They work by reducing capillary fragility and inhibiting collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin breakdown. Both substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect and can improve peripheral circulation.

Again it is important to note that while supplemental nutrition can support skin health in a number of ways, if concurrent dietary changes aren’t made, the supplements will be combating the constant inflammatory cascade from high GI foods and saturated fats. Removing these dietary items will ensure that inflammation, AGEs and oxidation are all reduced allowing the supplements to work to their optimal level and effect real changes in skin health.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au