vitaleblog.org

Over the weekend I went to Panyiri, the Greek Festival in Brisbane. I ate so many honey puffs, I am sure I looked like one by the time I left. Yum! There

Foundation - too dark, too much bronzer

were people from all ages at the event and lots of teenagers dressed to the nines. One thing I did notice and just have to comment on is the number of teenage girls and young women to wearing foundation that too dark for their natural skin tone. Correctly colour matched foundation can hide flaws and smooth out skin tone. By contrast, foundation in the wrong shade can create a sharp contrast between the skin tone of the face when compared to the neck and body. It can also leave obvious foundation lines along the jaw and hair-line.

The reason I comment is that so many of these young women have gorgeous skin and it is such a shame to see it being masked by layers of the wrong colour foundation in an attempt, I can only think, to look more tanned. So this blog looks at some of the myths associated with choosing the correct coloured foundation and how to choose the best shade for your skin.

1. Skin Tone
It is important to have an idea of your underlying skin tone so that you choose foundation that suits. For instance, yellow toned foundation makes me look like I am about to be sick which isn’t a look I aim for.

On their website, Lavera describes how to work out your skin tone:
If you belong to the cool types, your skin has a cool, bluish foundation tone. The hair has a cool ash tone and can also range from blonde to dark brown. A simple test: Place a silver-coloured cloth under your face this allows your complexion to glow, whereas a gold-coloured cloth makes the skin look tired. If you belong to the cooler type, these colours, for example, will suit you: black, light grey, pink, cold rose, lilac, claret, ice blue, marine, silver, mint, stone grey

If you belong to the warm types, your complexion has a yellow – golden foundation tone. The hair always has a warm gold shimmer or honey tone and can range from middle blonde to gold-brown, from red to brown. Your personal test: Hold a gold-coloured cloth under your chin – if your complexion appears noticeably fresher, you belong to the warmer type. In contrast, a silver-coloured cloth makes you appear pale and washed-out. If you belong to the warmer type, these colours for example, will suit you: tomato, chocolate brown, cream, salmon, apricot, olive, brick red, orange, moss green.

2. Testing Foundation
The most commonly myth about choosing foundation is that you can match it to the back of your hand or your wrist. If you hold up the back of your hand to your face you will see that they are quite different in tone and colour. Often hands have more sun damage and so the skin is darker than facial skin.

To test your foundation you should do so along the jaw line as this will give the best indication of your skin tone. You have to have a clean face to test foundation so don’t try and test over your existing foundation shade. Another no-no is trying to match to your foundation bottle. Try it on your skin. Foundation can look very different in a pallet or a bottle than it does on your skin.

3. Matching to your neck
Now this is controversial as most make up artists will tell you to make sure your make up matches the skin tone of your neck as well as your face. However in Australia many women have sun damage on the sides of their necks, which means that the skin on your neck may not be the same tone as the skin on your face. Match to your jawline first, then to your neck if you can.

4. Fake Tan or Vampires
I often see young women using very dark foundation in an attempt to match

Make up too pale

the fake tan on their bodies. This may be ok within the first few days of having the tan applied but after a week or so the foundation starts to look too dark. The alternative is to have fake tan lightly applied to your face and forego wearing any foundation at all. You can apply some bronzer or blush to give you colour which will give a more natural look. Or have two shades of foundation, one for use when tanned and one for use when your skin is natural.

The vampire look is another mistake often made and one that I have been guilty of in the past. It may not be immediately noticeable at first but will show up dramatically in photos. So if you see a photo of yourself looking like you have just popped out of a coffin for a midnight feast, time to change your make up.

5. The Eyes Have it

light concealer around the eyes

Another popular trend is to use light concealer around the eyes and then plenty of darker foundation or bronzer over the rest of the face. This look is fine if you want to look like you have been sun bathing in your sunglasses. Otherwise, match your concealer to your make up as well using the same techniques discussed above.

6. Professional Help
If you still feel that you need assistance with choosing a foundation shade, do yourself a favour and have your foundation shade colour matched by a cosmetics consultant. Drop into Vitale and we will happily test both Mineral or Natural Liquid foundations for you.

If you have a story about the wrong foundation or have had a positive experience please let me know.

This is a new section of the blog I will be writing from time to time that specifically addresses the needs of younger skin. Hannah is a gorgeous 17 year-old who regularly comes into the store and asks me the best ways to manage her skin. While clear now, Hannah suffered from breakouts for some time and so is conscious about how to best manage her skin as she gets older.

The reason that I decided to write “The Hannah Files” is because Hannah recently visited asking me if she should change over to a cream cleanser during winter. This was one of the tips I had included in an article about skin hydration. What I didn’t realise while writing that article is that I didn’t make the information specific enough. Hannah for instance doesn’t need to use a cream cleanser because her skin isn’t dehydrated, mature or dry. Her skin is young, fresh and if anything prone to congestion and so a cream cleanser wouldn’t suit her skin at all.

Skin is at its peak in its 20s with cell turnover and collagen & elastin at its production height. This is the age when you can set the ground rules with skin care and make

Care for younger skin

choices that will affect your skin later in life. At this age, lifestyle will have a big affect on the way your skin looks. Late nights, poor dietary habits, alcohol and poor product choices can all contribute to skin concerns such as breakouts, congestion and dehydration. (Not talking about you Hannah!)

Hormones may also have an influence, contributing to high oil production, congestion and breakouts. However by far the worst habit seen at this age is the desire for a tan. Sunbaking, particularly in Australia where the ozone is thinner is a big no-no. When skin looks young and fresh, it is hard to believe the impact of sun damage but regardless it is occurring.

Also of worthy note is that choosing natural skin care at this younger age is of great benefit. Not only reducing the toxic burden of chemicals at an earlier age, the appropriate natural skin care contains ingredients that will actively help nourish, heal and support younger skin.

A general plan for teen and 20-something skin incorporates a routine includes:

o Cleanse – usually gel or natural foaming cleansers are idea as they keep skin clear of oil and make up. Cream cleansers will not clean young, oily skin effectively. Products I recommend are:

• REMEDICa Black Soap
• Third Stone Botanicals Rose Geranium Gel Cleanser

o Exfoliate – with cell turnover high, there are more dead skin cells to slough off. A good exfoliant is essential to prevent congestion.

• Third Stone Botanicals Almond Rose Exfoliant

• Haven Scent Apricot & Lemon Scrub

o Moisturise – usually a lotion or gel moisturiser is enough to hydrate young skin. Lotions and gels are also less likely to contribute to congestion particularly if skin tends to be oily. Using products that are too rich will contribute to congestion.

• TSB Rose Geranium Moisture Balance
• TSB Cederwood Moisture Gel

o Sun Protection – this is for long-term protection. You can generally find a sunfilter and moisturiser in one, which provides sun protection as well as moisture.

• TSB Sunfilter Moisturiser
• TSB Sunfilter Lotion

o Optional products include Hydration Mists and Masks

At this stage, treatment products aren’t necessary unless dealing with a specific condition such as acne, breakouts or congestion. Anti-aging products are not a focus.
In addition, it is important to ensure that some good dietary habits are put into place or at least maintained.

o Drink enough water – 1.5 to 2 litres per day
o Vegies, more vegies and some fruit – both are good sources of fibre and antioxidants, which assist with internal health as well as skin radiance.
o Avoid soft drinks altogether and well what can I say about alcohol (moderation is the key)
So Hannah, thank you for your question. It certainly motivated me to think about exactly what does suit younger skin. And this brings me to another point, which is that I would love anyone that wants specific advice to ask me. You can either e-mail, blog post, call or make an appointment to see me in-store. That way I can give you individual advice about your skin.

I look forward to more questions.