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I haven’t yet filmed the 3rd in the series on Dehydrated Skin…but will get there! However, I found an interesting article from Jenny of Coconut Magic with relation to dry & dehydrated skin. She writes “free radicals are toxic byproducts that can have the most harmful affect on your health, beauty and longevity. Especially found in heated, rancid and unsaturated oils, free radicals can damage proteins, fats, cell membranes, and vital DNA. They can also help accelerate the ageing process.”

It is so true that the type of fats we consume have an impact on our skin. I have discussed this many times with relation to the fatty membrane of skin skin cells. If the fats in the membrane are comprised predominantly of pro-inflammatory fats, then the skin cell is likely to experience greater damage from free radical production and cellular nutrition and hydration will be compromised. However, if you supply the skin with good fat sources, the fatty membrane will incorporate these and both inflammation and free radical damage will reduce. Cellular nutrition and hydration will also improve significantly.

Topically there are many beneficial oils that can help improve cellular health (for specifics read this article) however, the fats we eat will also have a huge impact. More from Jenny: Coconut oil is a saturated fat (it’s true – not all saturated fats are bad but that is a topic for another blog) that is made up of medium chain fatty acids (MCFA’s). The MCFA’s in coconut oil possess incredible health giving properties. They provide natural anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, ant-viral and detox benefits. Coconut oil is cleansing, nourishing and helps with the body’s absorption of vitamin E and omega 3’s, which further enhances its beautifying effects.

Coconut oil reverses the free radical tissue-damaging process by displacing the rancid, pro-inflammatory oils from the tissues and providing fat-soluble vitamins, minerals and super nutrition factors directly to the damaged tissue.

In his book The Coconut Oil Miracle, Bruce Fife, ND, details: “Studies show that dry skin contains a higher content of unsaturated fatty acids (60%) compared to normal skin (49%). The best oil to use is one that doesn’t create free radicals. Saturated fat fits that requirement.”

For those with dry and dehydrated skin, the protection that good fat affords is critical for skin recovery. Taking up to 4 teaspoons of coconut oil per day it wont take very long to start seeing the major benefits that coconut oil will have on your health and the way that you look and feel.

We all know that eating fruit and vegetables is healthy…and that most of us should probably consume more than we do. Interestingly a new study takes this even further finding that eating more from this food group can actually change your appearance in as little as 6 weeks. The key to this change is the phytochemicals (plant chemicals) that give the fruit and vegetables colour can also help give us colour as well.

The study revealed that fewer than four portions a day (1 piece of fruit or half a cup of vegetables equals one serve) increased skin redness and yellowness both of which are associated with the perception of increased attractiveness and improved health. In particular it is the carotenoids which are the yellow, orange and red pigments in plant foods that actually cause these perceptible changes in our skin colour and tone.

In addition to changing skin tone carotenoids are powerful antioxidants that improve many aspects of skin health by reducing oxidative stress. These benefits include the reduction in UV light sensitivity and therefore long term sun damage. Eaten in high enough quantities, carotenoids can promote a healthy glow that rivals a tan!

Plant foods that are rich in carotenoids include carrots, sweet potato, pumpkin, kale, spinach, Swiss chard, collard greens and red capsicum. Dark green vegetables are included as they contain carotenoids (yellow) and chlorophyll (green) so overall appear green. As always the message is Eat Your Greens…and Yellows and Oranges and Reds!

References:

1. Whitehead RD, Re D, Xiao D, Ozakinci G, Perrett DI. You are what you eat: within-subject increases in fruit and vegetable consumption confer beneficial skin-color changes. PLoS One. 2012;7(3):e32988.

I love summer, but not because of the heat and humidity rather because I get to go to the beach and swim. With skin like mine, I have to be careful and so a protective swimming shirt, hat and 30+ micronized zinc sunscreen are absolute essentials for me. Even then I don’t go to the beach between 10am and 2pm. Despite the preparation, I still manage to develop a new crop of freckles each year. Now freckles I don’t mind but sun damage and more permanent skin pigmentation I do so there are strategies I incorporate in my daily skin care regimen and ingredients I look for in my skin care and sunscreen that help to manage and prevent the likelihood of both.

Firstly and most importantly, the regular use of SPF products is critical. Research completed in September 2011 (Diffey BL, J Cosmet Dermatol) evaluated the effect of daily application of topical photo-protective products and its effect on facial photo-aging (skin aging due to sun damage). The results show that regular use of topical photo-protective agents (SPF sunscreens) significantly reduces the lifetime exposure to UV. While this may seem logical interestingly, the SPF rating was of lesser importance that beginning regular use early in life. IN addition many only use an SPF product in the summer months and this study identified that year-round use was preferable. To sum up this research, start early and use an SPF product daily.

Some plant ingredients have shown a good protective effect against UV damage and erythema, which is skin reddening, coupled with inflammation. Human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols in particular are photo-protective in nature, and can be used as topical agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photo-aging and potentially non-melanoma skin cancers. Use as a preventative for non-melanoma skin cancers requires more clinical trials in humans to confirm ongoing efficacy.

In addition to its skin protective effects, green tea also has good antioxidant activity as well as and ability to slow skin matrix degradation which leads to wrinkles and loss of firmness. White tea shows similar protective and skin rejuvenation effects. The fern polypdium leucotomos has also shown a photo-aging protective effect however this is less widely used in skincare than green tea.

When it comes to skin lightening and reduction of pigmentation, there are good ingredients and some that are not so good. The use of hydroquinone, which was the standard prescription for skin lightening, has become controversial due to its potential long-term consequences including a potential cancer causing effect when consumed orally. This has lead researchers to look at new skin lightening ingredients particularly for those with mild to moderate skin pigmentation. One study completed in 2010 (Draelos ZD, Yatskayer M, Bhushan P, et al, Cutis) compared a 4% hydroquinone cream with a topical formulation containing the herbal ingredients kojic acid, emblica extract and glycolic acid from sugar cane. Eight participants used either the herbal formulation or the hydroquinone cream twice daily for 12 weeks. At the end of the study, results showed that the herbal preparation was just as effective as the hydroquinone cream.  Other studies have showed similar results with either one or a number of herbal skin lightening ingredients.

It is important to note that the clinical trials are conducted over a 12-week period as skin cell turnover takes approximately 90-120 days, which means the new non-pigmented skin cells take this long to emerge. If you choose to try a skin lightening cream or serum to manage pigmentation, be aware that it will take time so don’t expect overnight results.

So apart from the “slip, slop, slap” routine (for non-Australians this is translated as “slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat”), these measures mean that despite living in Queensland I can be sure I am doing the best to prevent progressive sun damage and minimize sun cancer risk.

My product recommendations:

Daily Sun Protection

• Devita Solar Protective Moisturiser SPF30
• Lavera Anti-Ageing Face Cream SPF15
• Devita Solar Body Block SPF30

Skin Lightening

• La Mav Daily Vitamin C Brightening Serum
• Devita Skin Brightening Serum
• Devita Complex KBA

Related Articles:

• Skin Pigmentation Treatments
• My Skin Lightening Experiment

Apart from the myriad of other symptoms, the onset of menopause can cause considerable skin changes in women. Symptoms range from dry, itchy skin to increased oil, thinning skin and acne breakouts.

Changes in hormones, particularly estrogen are responsible for many of the body changes during menopause including skin issues. The role of estrogen in the skin is to stimulate the formation of collagen and oil production. As menopause approaches the levels of estrogen drop and dry skin becomes very common. Increased oiliness and acne-breakouts are less common but also may occur initially as the hormonal profile begins to change. In this case estrogen may drop relative to testosterone which then drives oilier skin. Then as all hormones lower, the body’s oil production decreases as does the oiliness. Due to the reduction in oil production, the oil’s skin-protective effect decreases as does the body’s ability to hold onto moisture.

While dry skin may occur anywhere on the body, from elbows to face to legs, even the nail bed, itchiness tends to be limited to hands.

While these changes are an inevitable result of menopause, there are many ways to manage the skin effects and slow permanent changes.

Manage Dry Skin

1. Consume good fats – essential fatty acids promote the skin’s protective oil barrier and help keep skin from losing moisture. Western diets tend to be low in omega 3 fatty acids and most of us could use a top up. Foods rich in omega 3 include salmon, sardines, anchovies, flax oil, fish oil and green leafy vegetables.
2. Drink water – it makes sense to help maintain hydration.
3. Protect your skin from sun damage – too much sun exposure can dry out your skin and cause long term damage. Use a natural micronised zinc oxide sunscreen. Hats and protective clothing are also important during the middle of the day.
4. Choose a good moisturiser – if your skin is dry or dehydrated, choose a moisturiser that is rich in shea or cocoa butter (stop moisture evaporation) or plant oils (support skin cell health and moisture retention). Other ingredients to look for include hyaluronic acid (helps the skin attract and hold moisture) and antioxidants (maintain the health of the skin cells so they hold onto more moisture)
5. Use oil-based serums at night – oils carry antioxidants and nutrients into the skin ensuring the health of the skin cells. The healthier they are, the more moisture they hold onto and the slower they age.
6. Only wash the areas you need to with soap – I know this is getting personal but your underarms, feet and groin are the key areas that really need soap. If you don’t get dirty on your arms, legs and torso, just let water rinse over you. Washing with soap strips away the layer of natural body oil which means you have to add it back. I am not suggesting you never wash or scrub your body again but maybe less often if your skin is feeling dehydrated.
7. Check out our Dry Skin Info Page for more detailed information

Manage Oily Skin

1. Use a light moisturiser – or even a serum. This will help balance oil production and reduce the potential for breakouts. Have a look at our Oily/Congested Skin Info page for more detail
2. Light exfoliation – this will help keep congestion down and allow moisturisers to penetrate the skin more effectively. Choose a gentle exfoliant with even exfoliant beads e.g. Mukti Exfoliant or Devita Gentle Exfoliation.
3. Monitor your skin closely as this phase is unlikely to last. As soon as you notice your skin become less oily, change to more appropriate products. Don’t assume it will stay oily.

Maintain Skin Collagen Levels

1. Exercise – this is important for all aspects of health during and after menopause including bone density and heart healthy. It can also help to keep skin healthy by increasing the nutrients and oxygen that are circulated to your skin.
2. Use cosmeceutical ingredients to slow collagen breakdown and support new growth. Vitamin C is one of the most significant collagen supporting nutrients.
3. Read our Slow Aging Info Page for more detail about supporting collagen health

This question from a customer is interesting because it details a number of skin issues at once and the question is then, what to do first? Can everything be managed at once? I have a method for improving pretty much any skin condition or issue that I am asked about and I have outlined it below. It starts at the foundation of good skin health and progresses from there. This questions illustrates the process:

Q: Firstly, thank you for all the excellent information you provide via your blog, newsletter and mini skin care course. It really is very good especially since there is so much (misleading) information out there. My email is regarding the following:

I have been using Akin products for some time now but I think it is time for change. I am 36 and I have noticed that my skin condition has changed significantly in the last 5 years. I think I need to change to skin care specifically for slowing the ageing process.

I have very dry skin (I often reapply moisturizer in the afternoon), my skin is losing elasticity, wrinkles are certainly visible, I have some sun damage and hormone spots from pregnancies. I am fair and my skin is delicate.

Can you help me with advice on:

• Skin care products for everyday use to properly care for dry skin and slow the ageing process.
• Advice on sun protection product for my face.

A: Reading your e-mail I suggest we work with the skin issues you have outlined in the following way (in order of priority):

1. repair dehydration and correct nutrient status – at the very outset, this will help your skin to plump out and look younger. It is also the basis for healthy skin.
2. correct sun damage – this will take about 3 months but will really make a difference to your skin. Sun damage is a visible sign of skin ageing. It is at this stage that any other skin issues are addressed e.g. pigmentation, rosacea, irritation
3. support slow ageing – some of what we do above will be slow ageing but once your skin is hydrated and sun protected, we can look at longer term slow aging. The reason I put anti-aging 3rd is that by addressing the other issues (if they are present) you will achieve healthier, younger looking skin anyway. Then we can start with specific anti-aging skin care.

For dry skin, choose a lotion cleanser instead of a gel cleanser. The AUM Brightening Cream Cleanser is ideal as it also contains enzymes to help clear congestion and reduce sun damage but is gentle on dry skin at the same time. Use an oil serum at night to help improve the moisture holding capacity of the skin cells. You can apply the serum instead of a night cream. Any serum you use should sink into the skin completely within 5 minutes.  Remedica Regenerate Visage will nourish the skin deeply and more than that, help improve the skin cell health due to the high antioxidant and essential fatty acid levels. Then address sun damage. I suggest a moisturiser with a natural sunscreen agent such as Devita Solar Protect (SPF 30). If it feels too light, use half a pump of Regenerate Visage and then apply the Solar Protect over the top.

With existing sun damage you have a couple of options. You can cover it up (and I am going to suggest a make up below) and/or you can fade back the pigmentation using a natural skin brightening serum. I used the Devita Skin Brightening Serum with great effect myself this year. Pigmentation I thought would never fade has and I have skin quite similar to yours – fair & dry.

It will take about 3 weeks for you to really see a difference in your skin hydration and at about 3 months, the pigmentation should start to fade back significantly. After 4-6 months we can look at some more specific slow aging products such as vitamin C serums etc but until then, they won’t be as effective as they could be.

I would love to hear if you have a similar story and what you have done to manage either dry or pigmented skin.

Related Articles:

• Dry Skin Solutions
• Skin Solutions – Dry, Dull or Dehydrated

As we age, muscle fibers under the skin lengthen and loosen. Skin sags and becomes thinner and so it is not just wrinkles and sun damage that makes us look older but also skin sag. DMAE (also known as Dimethylaminoethanol) is an, in my opinion underutilized and generally overpriced ingredient (particularly in the Dr Perricone Neuropeptide range!) that helps to improve the firmness of the skin and helps reduce the visual appearance of sagging skin. It is an amine-based alcohol, a precursor to the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, present in nerve tissue in small amounts.

DMAE is incorporated into the membrane of cells, protecting against the cell membrane protein cross-linking (which can lead to sag and wrinkling). This ingredient also helps in the brain increasing higher cognitive function. In this video I talk more about DMAE and review a couple of products that contain this ingredient:

Read more about Devita Optimal Rejuvenation

Pea, hibiscus & gum may sound like a strange mix for skincare but these are the origins of some of nature’s potent anti-aging ingredients. With different effects on skin from the likes of vitamin C, A and AHAs, these ingredients enhance traditional cosmeceutical products rather than replacing them:

• Pisum Sativuum is an extract from the leguminous Pea plant. The molecule stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and protect the dermal and epidermal proteins which directly impact on skin firmness and elasticity. This is considered an “anti-wrinkle” active ingredient.
• Hibiscus Esculentis is another active constituent wihci is rich in oligopeptides. They have a “botox-like” activity on the skin by naturally relaxing the muscle. This directly impacts by smoothing expression line sand slowing down the deepening of expression wrinkles.
• Natural Active Acacia gum – An exudate obtained from stem and branches of Acacia tree. Acacia tree plantation reduce deforestation and desertification; helps local actions integrated in a Sustainable Development program. This ingredient provides an immediate tightening effect so is great if you have an event or wake up on the wrong side of bed as it will help to smooth skin. The other ingredient that has the same immediate tightening effect is Argania spinosa extract which also has a longer term biological effect particularly on neck wrinkles.

La Mav - using new & novel anti-aging ingredients

A few ranges are taking advantage of these ingredients, including them in new cosmeceutical ranges. In particular, La Mav has a focus on sustainable plant extracts that have anti-aging effects but are also good for your skin by being organic & natural.

So from the La Mav range for an immediate tightening effect, go for Line Perfector and as a complete treatment serum, choose Line Smoothing Serum.

So when can you start to see results? Your skin should start feeling soft and supple very quickly, within 1-2 days. If you are using products with Acacia gum or Argan you will see immediate effects. With continued use you will start noticing the positive changes in your skin within 1-2 weeks.

This month (August) with any phone, mail or internet order you receive a complimentary La Mav sample and $10 La Mav dollars to use with your next La Mav purchase. View the La Mav range.

If you read glossy magazines you could easily assume that women are terrified of growing old, or maybe I should say, looking old, spending millions on cosmetic procedures such as botox, liposuction and anti-aging treatments. Popular culture would have us believe the older women get, the less attractive and useful they feel. Fortunately, for most women this is all rubbish (thank goodness). Ask most how they feel about aging and most will confess to wanting to look younger but not 21 again. Women will initially say they want to look 5 or 10 years younger but when questioned further, most say they just want to look good for the age they actually are.

Far from hating growing older, research is showing that yes while women may buy anti-aging creams and treatments in order to slow the aging process, most women are actually more positive about their self image as they move from their 20s and 30s and into middle age.

An article I read called “Could aging be good for women?” by Susan Nolen-Hoeksema outlined that women’s lives overall improve with age, not just how they feel about their bodies but their mental health and life satisfaction also improve. Feelings of loneliness, anxiety and depression were less prevalent among women of middle age than younger women. One of the reasons cited for this improvement in mental and emotional health is the development of greater psychological strength with age. Strong friend networks with trusted people was another reason.

The reason I am writing about this is that this October will be my 20 year school reunion (yes I am 37) and upon receiving the invitation I confess my first thought was “OH MY GOD, I HAVE TO LOSE 5 KG IN THE NEXT 3 MONTHS”. Once I stopped laughing at my own thought process, I started to think about the aging process in general. I am in the very fortunate position to have a 21 year old sister who is in the bloom of early womanhood. She is vibrant, gorgeous and, well young which in itself has beauty. But would I want to be 21 again? No way! Do I even want to look 21? No, I actually spent my 20s having to show ID to get into any pub or club so looking my age is ok. Reflecting on the past 20 years since highschool ended I realized that I am really happy with where I am and that my love of good skincare is just about wanting to look the best I can, right now at the age of 37.

So I have decided that rather than try to lose 5 kg before my highschool reunion, instead I will buy myself a fantastic outfit and enjoy how good I look just as I am. I would love to hear how you feel about the aging process and if you are happy with where you are at right now.

La Mav Line Perfector

P.S.  I do actually have a few secret skin products up my sleeve to help me look fabulous on the night! The La Mav Line Perfector is my top pick for any big event. The Rhizobian Gum helps to smooth out skin and provides a good base for foundation. Minerelle Foundations give excellent long lasting cover that doesn’t smudge or kiss off and Hemp Organics Ruby Lipstick, being a drier formulation, is quite stay-fast. Just a little help for a fun evening!

I have been experimenting with products of late and one of the product groups I have tried over the last 4 months is skin lightening creams. Now don’t be alarmed, of course I used only natural products that contain herbal or vitamin skin whitening ingredients. There were no skin bleaches such as uric acid or hydroquinone in any product I put on or even near my skin. These ingredients are potentially damaging to the skin. Nor do I in any way promote the use of lightening agents for the purpose of making overall skin tone lighter. However to help manage pigmentation and age spots, they can be useful. So the results of my experiment: I just wish I had taken before and after photos of my skin. As I didn’t I will just have to explain…and so back to January.

Freckles are cute but sun damage not so

Over summer, despite my best efforts I always get freckles. This year after two weeks at the beach I not only had freckles but also light brown pigmentation all over my cheeks and nose that almost joined the freckles together. From a distance it looked like I had applied brown blush all over my cheekbones. I have the type of skin that burns when I look at the sun, so I am careful to protect it using sunscreen, hats and often long sleeve shirts or an umbrella to cover up. Living in Queensland still makes it hard to avoid sun damage and so over the years I have developed some light sun spots on my forehead and the side of my face. My hands and arms are also covered in permanent freckles that don’t fade anymore. I have grown to accept this about my skin and so generally don’t get too worried about it. However, this January I decided that I was going to see if skin lighteners really worked (I don’t recommend things I can either prove on myself or find the appropriate research for). Over the next 3 months I applied a skin whitening cream to my face and the backs of my hands at night only. During the day I used a moisturizer with SPF 30.

The results were extraordinary. After about 6 weeks I noticed that the background pigmentation on my cheeks had faded dramatically. After 3 months, it was like it had never existed and all the normal freckles I have had gone as well. I have to stress, this pigmentation was not long term or hormonal pigmentation but nonetheless I hadn’t expected such a remarkable result. My hands started to look freakish because they were so much paler than my arms…so I stopped it and just used on my face. It is now May and some of the long term sun damage areas have faded. There is only one remaining that is on my nose near my eye and I think this is more about not applying the cream properly rather than the cream not working. In any case I am stoked with the results!

Naturally I wanted to know how lightening products worked so I researched the key ingredients:

• Bearberry Extract – blocks tyrosinase which is an amino acid involved in the formation of melanin and therefore skin colouration
• Kojic Acid – sourced from fermenting rice and works by inhibiting the formation of pigmentation. This means it helps blocks new freckles and sun damage.
• Vitamin C – several forms of vitamin C have been shown to reduce melanin formation and provide a skin whitening effect when applied topically. These include l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, all of which are in fat soluble form.
• Natural AHAs – increase skin cell turnover so newer un-pigmented cells come to the surface faster

The process of normal skin colouration is extensive and occurs in various stages. Usually most skin lightening treatment will target several stages of this process at once. The most crucial step is the first where tyrosinase converts to tyrosine and by blocking this step, it follows that you can block the entire melanin formation process. Then as skin cells die and turn over, new lighter skin cells come to the surface. This is why the process of lightening the skin takes up to 4 months. Skin cell turnover is approximately 90-120 days. If you choose to try a skin lightening cream or serum to manage pigmentation, be aware that it will take time so don’t expect overnight results.

I do want to make a note about hormonal pigmentation. While the ingredients I discuss above may help reduce pigmentation, unless the underlying driver of the pigmentation is addressed and any hormonal imbalance is normalised, it is likely to return.

The cream I used to get these results is Devita Rx Complex KBA Hyperpigmentation Formula. It is a moisturiser as well so I didn’t need to apply anything over the top. There is also a Devita Skin Brightening Serum that contains the same ingredients designed for use under moisturisers. I have ceased using the lightening cream over winter but continue to use an SPF 30 moisturiser. I am considering starting to use it again in the lead up to summer as a way of minimizing the effects of sun exposure.

I would love to hear if you have had any experiences with lightening creams that have work, or not.