Aug
18
2010
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One of the questions that I am constantly asked is what is the best slow aging ingredient. This is a really tricky question however, if I HAVE to choose one I just can’t go past vitamin C. This isn’t to say it is suited to everyone but I find it just so effective to help reduce the signs of photoaging and with the Australian sun, that is a big plus.

Our skin constantly evolves and our skin ages both 1) biologically based upon inherited skin tendencies and 2) Photo-ages based on the effects of our lifestyle due to smoking, pollution, sun exposure, diet and stress. Photo-aging damage includes but is not limited to: wrinkles, dark blotches, freckles, leathery texture and loss of elasticity.

Recent studies show that it takes only eight relatively small dosages of UVA before changes are evident, and these changes are not even prevented by using a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 22!

Topical Vitamin C is an excellent antioxidant for skin protection and can be a useful adjunct to (but not replacement for) sunscreens. It is the process of oxidation that can damage body tissues. (This is the same process that causes cars to rust, and rubber tires to crack.) In time, it is believed that these changes may result in connective tissue breakdown (aging and wrinkles) and potentially skin cancer. The goal is to interfere with environmental damage, including sunlight, smoking and pollution. Vitamin C not only neutralizes free radicals destructive to the skin, but also actively regenerates Vitamin E which serves to protect all cell membranes from the degenerative effects of these environmental offenders.

Vitamin C also stimulates collagen synthesis. It is the only antioxidant that has been proven to increase collagen synthesis. Collagen is a protein which contributes to the skin’s firmness and elasticity and can be considered the structural steel of skin. The body’s ability to produce collagen slows dramatically as we get older. In addition, ascorbic acid is necessary for “crosslinking” one collagen molecule to another collagen molecule. This reaction is required for tissue strength.

Stabilized topical vitamin C becomes an inherent part of the skin. It cannot be washed or rubbed off. Testing shows that it is fully protective for as long as three days after application. Don’t you just love that!

Topical vitamin C is capable of controlling the inflammatory response associated with ultraviolet light (sunburn). It is protective even when it is applied after sun exposure. It also is helpful in speeding the healing process. It is often recommended as a pre and post-operative regimen for laser resurfacing patients.

If you have had any experiences with Vitamin C products I would love to hear them…or any other “anti-aging” ingredients that have worked or not.

Important Note: Not all topical Vitamin C products are effective. In order to be effective the product must meet certain criteria including proper pH, stabilizing factors, and the source of the Vitamin C must be in a form the body can use so select your products with care. For more about Vitamin C, view the video blog below:

2 Comments
Aug
02
2010

Pea, hibiscus & gum may sound like a strange mix for skincare but these are the origins of some of nature’s potent anti-aging ingredients. With different effects on skin from the likes of vitamin C, A and AHAs, these ingredients enhance traditional cosmeceutical products rather than replacing them:

  • Pisum Sativuum is an extract from the leguminous Pea plant. The molecule stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and protect the dermal and epidermal proteins which directly impact on skin firmness and elasticity. This is considered an “anti-wrinkle” active ingredient.
  • Hibiscus Esculentis is another active constituent wihci is rich in oligopeptides. They have a “botox-like” activity on the skin by naturally relaxing the muscle. This directly impacts by smoothing expression line sand slowing down the deepening of expression wrinkles.
  • Natural Active Acacia gum – An exudate obtained from stem and branches of Acacia tree. Acacia tree plantation reduce deforestation and desertification; helps local actions integrated in a Sustainable Development program. This ingredient provides an immediate tightening effect so is great if you have an event or wake up on the wrong side of bed as it will help to smooth skin. The other ingredient that has the same immediate tightening effect is Argania spinosa extract which also has a longer term biological effect particularly on neck wrinkles.

La Mav - using new & novel anti-aging ingredients

A few ranges are taking advantage of these ingredients, including them in new cosmeceutical ranges. In particular, La Mav has a focus on sustainable plant extracts that have anti-aging effects but are also good for your skin by being organic & natural.

So from the La Mav range for an immediate tightening effect, go for Line Perfector and as a complete treatment serum, choose Line Smoothing Serum.

So when can you start to see results? Your skin should start feeling soft and supple very quickly, within 1-2 days. If you are using products with Acacia gum or Argan you will see immediate effects. With continued use you will start noticing the positive changes in your skin within 1-2 weeks.

This month (August) with any phone, mail or internet order you receive a complimentary La Mav sample and $10 La Mav dollars to use with your next La Mav purchase. View the La Mav range.

1 Comments
Jul
21
2010

If you read glossy magazines you could easily assume that women are terrified of growing old, or maybe I should say, looking old, spending millions on cosmetic procedures such as botox, liposuction and anti-aging treatments. Popular culture would have us believe the older women get, the less attractive and useful they feel. Fortunately, for most women this is all rubbish (thank goodness). Ask most how they feel about aging and most will confess to wanting to look younger but not 21 again. Women will initially say they want to look 5 or 10 years younger but when questioned further, most say they just want to look good for the age they actually are.

Far from hating growing older, research is showing that yes while women may buy anti-aging creams and treatments in order to slow the aging process, most women are actually more positive about their self image as they move from their 20s and 30s and into middle age.

An article I read called “Could aging be good for women?” by Susan Nolen-Hoeksema outlined that women’s lives overall improve with age, not just how they feel about their bodies but their mental health and life satisfaction also improve. Feelings of loneliness, anxiety and depression were less prevalent among women of middle age than younger women. One of the reasons cited for this improvement in mental and emotional health is the development of greater psychological strength with age. Strong friend networks with trusted people was another reason.

The reason I am writing about this is that this October will be my 20 year school reunion (yes I am 37) and upon receiving the invitation I confess my first thought was “OH MY GOD, I HAVE TO LOSE 5 KG IN THE NEXT 3 MONTHS”. Once I stopped laughing at my own thought process, I started to think about the aging process in general. I am in the very fortunate position to have a 21 year old sister who is in the bloom of early womanhood. She is vibrant, gorgeous and, well young which in itself has beauty. But would I want to be 21 again? No way! Do I even want to look 21? No, I actually spent my 20s having to show ID to get into any pub or club so looking my age is ok. Reflecting on the past 20 years since highschool ended I realized that I am really happy with where I am and that my love of good skincare is just about wanting to look the best I can, right now at the age of 37.

So I have decided that rather than try to lose 5 kg before my highschool reunion, instead I will buy myself a fantastic outfit and enjoy how good I look just as I am. I would love to hear how you feel about the aging process and if you are happy with where you are at right now.

La Mav Line Perfector

La Mav Line Perfector

P.S.  I do actually have a few secret skin products up my sleeve to help me look fabulous on the night! The La Mav Line Perfector is my top pick for any big event. The Rhizobian Gum helps to smooth out skin and provides a good base for foundation. Minerelle Foundations give excellent long lasting cover that doesn’t smudge or kiss off and Hemp Organics Ruby Lipstick, being a drier formulation, is quite stay-fast. Just a little help for a fun evening!

7 Comments
May
21
2010

I have been experimenting with products of late and one of the product groups I have tried over the last 4 months is skin lightening creams. Now don’t be alarmed, of course I used only natural products that contain herbal or vitamin skin whitening ingredients. There were no skin bleaches such as uric acid or hydroquinone in any product I put on or even near my skin. These ingredients are potentially damaging to the skin. Nor do I in any way promote the use of lightening agents for the purpose of making overall skin tone lighter. However to help manage pigmentation and age spots, they can be useful. So the results of my experiment: I just wish I had taken before and after photos of my skin. As I didn’t I will just have to explain…and so back to January.

Freckles are cute but sun damage not so

Over summer, despite my best efforts I always get freckles. This year after two weeks at the beach I not only had freckles but also light brown pigmentation all over my cheeks and nose that almost joined the freckles together. From a distance it looked like I had applied brown blush all over my cheekbones. I have the type of skin that burns when I look at the sun, so I am careful to protect it using sunscreen, hats and often long sleeve shirts or an umbrella to cover up. Living in Queensland still makes it hard to avoid sun damage and so over the years I have developed some light sun spots on my forehead and the side of my face. My hands and arms are also covered in permanent freckles that don’t fade anymore. I have grown to accept this about my skin and so generally don’t get too worried about it. However, this January I decided that I was going to see if skin lighteners really worked (I don’t recommend things I can either prove on myself or find the appropriate research for). Over the next 3 months I applied a skin whitening cream to my face and the backs of my hands at night only. During the day I used a moisturizer with SPF 30.

The results were extraordinary. After about 6 weeks I noticed that the background pigmentation on my cheeks had faded dramatically. After 3 months, it was like it had never existed and all the normal freckles I have had gone as well. I have to stress, this pigmentation was not long term or hormonal pigmentation but nonetheless I hadn’t expected such a remarkable result. My hands started to look freakish because they were so much paler than my arms…so I stopped it and just used on my face. It is now May and some of the long term sun damage areas have faded. There is only one remaining that is on my nose near my eye and I think this is more about not applying the cream properly rather than the cream not working. In any case I am stoked with the results!

Naturally I wanted to know how lightening products worked so I researched the key ingredients:

  • Bearberry Extract – blocks tyrosinase which is an amino acid involved in the formation of melanin and therefore skin colouration
  • Kojic Acid – sourced from fermenting rice and works by inhibiting the formation of pigmentation. This means it helps blocks new freckles and sun damage.
  • Vitamin C – several forms of vitamin C have been shown to reduce melanin formation and provide a skin whitening effect when applied topically. These include l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, all of which are in fat soluble form.
  • Natural AHAs – increase skin cell turnover so newer un-pigmented cells come to the surface faster

The process of normal skin colouration is extensive and occurs in various stages. Usually most skin lightening treatment will target several stages of this process at once. The most crucial step is the first where tyrosinase converts to tyrosine and by blocking this step, it follows that you can block the entire melanin formation process. Then as skin cells die and turn over, new lighter skin cells come to the surface. This is why the process of lightening the skin takes up to 4 months. Skin cell turnover is approximately 90-120 days. If you choose to try a skin lightening cream or serum to manage pigmentation, be aware that it will take time so don’t expect overnight results.

I do want to make a note about hormonal pigmentation. While the ingredients I discuss above may help reduce pigmentation, unless the underlying driver of the pigmentation is addressed and any hormonal imbalance is normalised, it is likely to return.

The cream I used to get these results is Devita Rx Complex KBA Hyperpigmentation Formula. It is a moisturiser as well so I didn’t need to apply anything over the top. There is also a Devita Skin Brightening Serum that contains the same ingredients designed for use under moisturisers. I have ceased using the lightening cream over winter but continue to use an SPF 30 moisturiser. I am considering starting to use it again in the lead up to summer as a way of minimizing the effects of sun exposure.

I would love to hear if you have had any experiences with lightening creams that have work, or not.

2 Comments
Dec
21
2009

Every day we are exposed to air pollution, sunlight, smoke and more all which give rise to the production of “free radicals”.  Damage to our DNA, protein (collagen & elastin) and protein remodeling (skin healing) are all side effects of the production of free radicals. Internally the metabolism, the effects of stress and emotions and the result of everyday body process that utilize oxygen all create free radicals. Externally ultraviolet light from the sun and environmental stressors such as smoking, pollution, poor dietary habits and chemical exposure also contribute. The production of free radicals and the damage they cause is one of the key mechanisms of aging.  As one ages, the skin’s structural foundation weakens. Specifically, collagen which keeps the skin firm and elastin which maintains elasticity and helps prevent the skin from sagging. Free radicals attack your skin’s collagen and elastin layers, accelerating the creation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Skin-aging caused by free radicals occurs over time however, the damaging effect of free radicals is exacerbated in the presence of an antioxidant

Berries are an excellent source of dietary antioxidants

Berries are an excellent source of dietary antioxidants

deficiency which can accelerate this process considerably. Consider for example the skin of a smoker aged 40 years compared to a non-smoker. In this case, the antioxidant defenses of the skin are far outweighed by the production of free radicals as a byproduct of the daily cigarette habit. Much research has been done with regard to the benefits of antioxidants to combat the production of free radicals. Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals that harm the cells, causing damage and premature aging. Specifically antioxidants help to maintain the health of the skin cells such as collagen and elastin which keeps skin supple.

There are two ways to slow the effects of free radical damage on the skin:

Reduce the production of free radicals. You can’t really do much

Smoking contributes to free radical skin damage

Smoking contributes to free radical skin damage

about reducing free radical product that is the byproduct of everyday bodily processes however you can reduce your exposure to the environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution, chemicals and poor dietary habits. So the key advice such as minimizing exposure to midday sun and giving up smoking apply here.

Improve your antioxidant status. The neutralizing effects of antioxidants don’t prevent the effects of free radical damage however ensuring that your antioxidant status is optimal will certainly slow skin aging. Antioxidants can be increased internally and topically by:

  1. Eating plenty of antioxidant rich foods – colourful fruit, vegetables and wholegrains are excellent sources of antioxidants. Key antioxidant rich foods for the skin include mangosteen, turmeric, green tea and berries of any kind.
  2. Antioxidant Supplements can help top up your levels

    Antioxidant Supplements can help top up your levels

    Antioxidant Supplementation – specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids (green tea and grapeseed), exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin and help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health.

  3. Topical antioxidants – provide some protection against environmental damage to the skin and may help slow down skin aging. However, the effectiveness of topical antioxidants depends on a number of factors including skin permeability, the concentration of the antioxidant and the other ingredients in the cream and whether they are water or fat soluble among other things. Also keep in mind that just because an ingredient is an antioxidant, doesn’t mean that it will be effective for slowing skin aging and indeed that different antioxidants have different effects on the skin. Some of the more effective topical antioxidants that have been researched thus far include:
  • Vitamin C – supports and stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces free radical damage
  • Vitamin E – assists with skin healing, protects cellular membranes which helps maintain the health of the skin cell
  • Green tea – reduces erythema and the effects of ultraviolet radiation, anti-inflammatory effects.
  • Betacarotene & Carotenes – helps minimise sun damage
  • Vitamin A (as retinoic acid) – increase synthesis of collagen, reducing fine wrinkles, improve skin texture and increase skin thickness
  • Coenzyme Q10 – improving the cells ability to produce new collagen. It also increases the ability of the cell to minimise damage from free radical production.
  • Lipoic acid – inhibit cross-linking which contributes to the ageing process

Whether in our diet, as supplements or topically applied, antioxidant play an important role in slowing down the aging process. Of course to get the best effect it is important to consider all three delivery methods. In addition, minimising your exposure to the environmental factors that cause free radical production, will significantly add to slowing the aging process, not just of your skin, but of your whole body.

4 Comments
Oct
14
2009

ED note: In this article by Tarj Mavi, she questions the use of AHAs for younger skin (ie. women & men in their 20s). This is interesting as in previous blogs I have said that I am a fan of AHAs and think they are great

AHAs - suitable for younger skin or not?

AHAs - suitable for younger skin or not?

for congested skin (still waiting to see if they work for me on pigmentation). The other thing to note is that AHAs should not be used continuously which is the mistake I think many companies make when promoting AHA products designed for daily use. For more informaition about this have a look at my previous blog on this topic. For my 2 cents, I am still a fan of AHAs when used appropriately. In any case I thought I would give you the opportunity to read what Tarj has to say which is a very different view point and of course I would love to read about your experiences using AHAs so please comment!

The Anti Aging Obsession – when should we start? By Tarj Mavi

It is not surprising that women of all ages are becoming increasingly aware of societies perception of growing old and we are PETRIFIED almost so that it’s bordering on insanity. Everyone is so worried that once the first signs of wrinkles or age spots appear we rush out and buy the strongest anti ageing treatment we can find hoping results will appear within the next couple of days, not giving a second thoughts to the possible side effects. As we repeatedly hear and read about Hollywood elite’s obsession with ageing and dieting we look for more permanent and sometimes damaging ways to erase ageing altogether. Even Scarlett Johansson at 25 who has been nominated the world’s sexiest women numerous times, has become so paranoid about her weight and complexion that she’s already been using anti ageing products since she hit 20.

In response to this ageing mania – The today show aired a segment this morning suggesting that young women who use anti ageing products could potentially be accelerating the ageing process rather than preventing/slowing it. The show discussed how the production of skin cells decreases with age. Products containing retinoids or alpha hydoxy acid compounds (glycolic and malic acids) purposely destroy skin cells to break down a layer of skin to help increase the speed of cell renewal and even out uneven skin tone in older women. However, if you’re constantly breaking down the natural, water-retaining protective layers of the skin; younger skin doesn’t have the strength to withstand the additional environmental factors and can react harmfully.

Younger skin is more sensitive than older skin. It is more susceptible to react badly to stronger ingredients like AHA’s, sometimes resulting in irritation, increased dryness and hence becoming more prone to sun damage. So if someone starts using products containing retinoids or AHA’s before their 25, you can ironically cause many of the problems that you’re trying to avert.

After the show a La Mav customer called me extremely concerned that at 26 she was damaging her skin. But you do NOT have to be concerned – safety was my number 1 concern when I started creating La Mav. I wanted to create a product that was not only age defying but that had the hydrating

AHA alternatives

AHA alternatives

capabilities to be used on all skin types and on all ages so that no matter the condition of the skin La Mav will work for you. For me anti ageing is about nourishing the skin to repair and maintain skin’s condition through constant hydration and rejuvenation. While none of La Mav products contain retinoids or alpha hydoxy acid compounds they are instead formulated with real, natural & potent active ingredients that increase firmness and elasticity of your skin with soothing & hydrating properties. Regardless of whether you’re 22, 26, 46 or 56 you can use La Mav with the assurance that your skin is getting the nutrients it needs to restore skin’s natural glow.

So when is the best time to start using an anti wrinkle cream?? It really depends on the individual and their skin type & condition – as many different factors play a role in the skin’s composition and overall elasticity. Some people should start using it as soon as they reach their 20’s, while others can wait until their 30’s.

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Jun
30
2009

Following on from previous blog about slow aging ingredients, I thought I would discuss in greater depth the benefits of topical vitamin C serum. Vitamin C serum is one of my favorite slow aging ingredients for a number of reasons: the research is there to back up the proported benefits, it is a natural ingredient and I have seen it work on my own skin. Specifically I noticed decreased flushing indicating it had worked to strengthen the capillaries in my skin and improved skin tone. I was really pleased with the outcome as I tend to flush easily and get blotchy skin (when I have wine or hot showers, eat spicy or fatty foods, eat too much sugar, sit in air-conditioning or heating, when I get too much sun and oh so many other things…). In the video I discuss how vitamin C works to achieve this result.

Related Articles:
Topical Ingredients for Slow Aging

0 Comments
Jun
24
2009

Every season new anti-aging products are launched and promoted as the new generation of slow aging. The question is “how do we know it works”? The gold standard of proof is a human clinical trial showing evidence of skin improvement however most topical ingredients have very limited research to back them up. This article looks at 4 ingredients that are commonly used in “anti-aging” products, the research that supports them and how to use them to greatest effect.

Vitamin C – Vitamin C has numerous slow aging

Natural Vitamin C

Natural Vitamin C

benefits: it works within the skin to promote collagen production by stimulating the genes that make collagen and stopping the enzyme that degrades it, it is an antioxidant and so reduces free-radical production in the skin, it also provides photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, works to lighten hyperpigmentation and may also assist with the reduction of inflammation in inflammatory skin disorders.

Some great benefits however vitamin C is highly unstable in its natural form ascorbic acid and so it is advisable to only use stabilised forms such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate. Even so, vitamin C in these forms must be kept away from direct sunlight and used once opened otherwise they are prone to oxidation and stop being effective.

In addition, vitamin C absorbs into the skin very slowly and so higher concentrations are required for the above benefits. Look for products that contain 10-20% vitamin C as any less will not be effective. They also need to be acidic in form which is one of the factors that promotes an added exfoliation effect. Buffered vitamin C forms are less effective so make sur that your product has a pH of less than 3.8. If the pH and vitamin C concentration are not supplied with the product, ask your supplier before purchase to ensure you get the desired effects.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHAs/PHAs will help slow aging by revitalising the topmost layer of skin. This effect is achieved by AHAs clearing dead skin cells, thinning the strata corneum thereby exposing newer skin cells, improving the quality of elastic fibres, increasing the density of collagen and stimulating the production of collagen. The net result is an anti-wrinkle effect and a reduction in signs of photoaging.

Most over the counter AHA products contain concentrations of 8-15% which promote visible results over time. However, concentrations lower than 8% do not show significant benefit and products such as cleansers and everyday moisturisers that list AHAs are unlikely to contain enough to make a significant difference.

Apple Skins contain natural fruit AHAs

Apple Skins contain natural fruit AHAs

The anti-wrinkle effect of AHAs is achieved by removing the top layer of dead skin cells (stratum corneum) however it also removes valuable antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and E and may also increases sun sensitivity. These side effects need to be countered by using sunscreen during the day and applying an antioxidant rich moisturiser following use of AHAs.

Due to their acidic nature AHA’s produce a tingling sensation on the skin. This effect is a sign that the product is working to exfoliate the top layers of skin. The exfoliation is gradual and results can be expected after 3 months of use. However, ongoing use of AHAs may have a mild dehydrating effect on the skin due to the potential for water loss as the strata corneum is thinned. To counter this effect, use AHAs for 2-3 months then take a break of 2-3 months.

Copper Peptides – Copper peptides emerged as a skin treatment product in the 70s when it was found to significantly stimulate skin wound healing. This end is achieved by promoting normal collagen growth rather than the abnormal collagen growth found in scar tissue. While these results were achieved with wound healing more recent use has shown that copper peptides may also have a collagen regenerating effect on normal skin. In particular, they can help repair skin after exfoliation (seen as controlled skin damage), minimise the daily assaults from sun damage and pollution and reduce skin inflammation which is significantly associated with hastening the aging process.

While copper peptides have a good safety and efficacy profile, there are some notes of caution related to using copper peptides. Again, with copper peptides, as with AHA’s more is not always better. Taking a break after 2-3 months is advisable as too much copper can have an irritating and pro-oxidant effect. In addition copper peptides are made less effective in an acidic environment so it is best to use them away from AHAs, vitamin C and retanoids.

Plant antioxidants – The most common significant finding for antioxidants of plant origin such as the catechins present in green tea, curcumin from the curry spice turmeric and apigenin present in many fruits and vegetables, is

Green Tea can reduce skin erythema

Green Tea can reduce skin erythema

that they reduce the effects of UV damage in the skin.

For example studies using 10% green tea extract have shown that it works to minimise sun damage by reducing the production of free radicals and inflammation that result from exposure to UV rays. Apart from free radical damage, inflammation is a potential driver of premature skin ageing. Green tea would therefore be a useful addition to a sunscreen or daily moisturiser as it will provide an additional protective effective aside from the SPF factor. Please keep in mind, green tea is in no way a substitute for SPF rather it works by supporting the skins resistance to sun damage.

The unknown factor associated with the use of polyphenols and many other new topical ingredients is that unless a human clinical trial has been conducted, the concentration of the active ingredient required in the cream is unknown. Adding minute amounts of an extract to make a label claim may be beneficial from a marketing perspective but it doesn’t promote skin rejuvenation or slow skin aging.

When choosing a slow aging product for your skin, ensure that you choose those with a high enough concentration of the active ingredient where it is known and otherwise, that it is in at least the top 2/3 of the ingredient listing. Ingredients in the last 1/3 of the label listing are included in very small quantities. Alternatively, if an ingredient is touted as the active in a product then the concentration may be listed on the label. If in doubt, ask the retailer or manufacturer for this information.

Related Articles

Aging – Does Diet Make a Difference

Anti Aging Skin Care – More than just Vitamin A

2 Comments
May
23
2009

The simple answer is yes. Environmental factors, nutritional status and dietary intake more than genes can add years to a person’s appearance. While topical applications make a difference, a healthy glow is more often a sign of internal health than anything else. There is a growing body of evidence to show that what we eat certainly influences skin aging and not surprisingly, the dietary correlations that relate to reduced skin aging also relate to reduced aging in general. Apart from dietary interventions, research is showing that supplementation with specific nutrients and antioxidants supports the use of topical anti-aging products and that in fact the combination is more effective than either treatment alone. Below is a review of the most significant dietary and nutritional influences on aging.

vegetables_healthy_food

An Australian study at Monash University looked at the effects of food and nutrient intake on skin wrinkling in areas exposed to the sun. The participants were from Melbourne, Greece and Sweden.

Food intake questionnaires were used to measure diet and microphotography of the skin was used to measure skin wrinkling. The study showed that Swedish had the least skin wrinkling, followed by Greeks and Australians had the most. The types of foods consumed did have an effect on the degree of skin wrinkling with more damage seen in those with a higher intake of meat, dairy and butter. Foods that had a protective effect against skin wrinkling included vegetables, legumes, olive oil, tea, prunes and apples (see full list below). Overall, positive dietary habits trended towards a low-GI diet.

Food for Healthy SkinAnother study supports the above food associations showing that skin wrinkling in a sun-exposed site in older people of various ethnic backgrounds may be influenced reducing intakes of fats and carbohydrates and increasing antioxidants and beneficial fats, dietary measures which are associated with better skin-aging appearance.

It is worth noting that research linking skin aging and dietary habits should not be taken out of context. Overall dietary trends produce these effects rather than any single food group in isolation. However, the dietary trends in both studies show that high GI and saturated fats seem to have the most significant pro-wrinkling effect. Due to their higher saturated fat content meat, dairy and butter can increase skin inflammation and lead to faster skin aging. In addition a high sugar intake is also associated with greater skin wrinkling. Simple sugar has a pro-inflammatory effect but it also promotes the production of advanced glycosylation end products (AGE). AGEs are closely associated with oxidative stress. A combination of a high antioxidant diet and low sugar reduces inflammation, free radical damage and AGE production in the body. Again the trend shows that the protective foods are low or have no saturated fats and are low GI and rich in phytochemicals which support skin collagen and reduce inflammation.

The Monash study indicated that these foods associated with less wrinkling:

• Mono-unsaturated fat including those from olive oil and olives
• Nuts and legumes
• Vegetables
• Fish (particularly those rich in essential fatty acids)
• Low fat milk and milk products, such as yogurt
• Wholegrain cereals
• Fruit and fruit products (especially prunes, cherries and apples)
• Eggs
• Tea and Water

More wrinkling was associated with diets that included higher intakes of:

• Saturated fat (including butter)
• Trans fats (including margarine)
• Meat (especially fatty processed meats)
• Full fat dairy products
• Refined carbohydrates and sugars such as cakes, pastries and desserts
• Soft drinks and cordials
• Confectionary of any kind
• Many packaged and processed foods contain hidden sugars
• Packaged cereals

Vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet

Vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet

Apart from dietary trends, certain nutrients also show promising effects on skin aging. Studies have shown that antioxidant nutrients, specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids, exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin, in particular photoprotective effects. That is they help protect the skin from the oxidative damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health. In fact, taking carotenoids prior to sun exposure will increase the depth and lasting effect of a sun tan (not that extended tanning is advised).

In other research, a daily dosage of soy isoflavones (40mg per day) resulted in the improvement of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity after 12 weeks of supplementation in middle-aged women with aged skin. Interestingly, a common arthritis supplement glucosamine also improved the appearance of visible wrinkles and fine lines. Glucosamine is incorporated into glucosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the body. GAGs work to increase epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin although they have no effect on skin hydration.

A rich source of proanthocyanidins

A rich source of proanthocyanidins

Research into oral proanthocyanidins flavanoids from grapeseed extract or pycnogenol has shown they both have a significant protective effect on the collagen matrix of the skin and capillaries. They work by reducing capillary fragility and inhibiting collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin breakdown. Both substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect and can improve peripheral circulation.

Again it is important to note that while supplemental nutrition can support skin health in a number of ways, if concurrent dietary changes aren’t made, the supplements will be combating the constant inflammatory cascade from high GI foods and saturated fats. Removing these dietary items will ensure that inflammation, AGEs and oxidation are all reduced allowing the supplements to work to their optimal level and effect real changes in skin health.

Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au

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