vitaleblog.org

No matter what type of skin you have choosing the right cleanser is key to maintaining the protective layer and nutrition of your skin. When choosing cleansers for skin types, I break them into different categories ranging from the most gentle and nourishing to the strongest cleansers:

Cream Cleansers – have the consistency of thick cream. Cream cleansers generally don’t contain any surfactants (foaming agents). They are ideal for dry, dehydrated, mature or sensitive skin as they work by using the oil component to bind with and remove makeup and daily pollution. Cream cleansers only minimally disrupt the acid mantle of the skin, if at all and maintain skin hydration. They are also the best for removing makeup.

For best results, moisten your face with tepid water, apply the cream cleanser and gently massage your face. Remove by wiping with a soft moist cloth or rinse with tepid water. Examples include Haven Scent Coconut Cream Cleanser and AUM Brightening Milk Cleanser.

Milk Cleansers – have the consistency of milk. Milk cleansers may or may not contain surfactants and if they do, they are generally only very mild surfactants. They are lighter than cream cleansers and therefore are ideal for normal to sometimes dry, mildly dehydrated and mature skin. Examples include Treasured Earth Cleansing Milk and Third Stone Botanicals Palmarosa Cleansing Milk.

Gel Cleansers – typically used for normal to combination skin they can be minimally drying but less so than a foaming cleanser. Gel cleansers are ideal for skin that is sometimes dry and sometimes a bit oily and certainly for congestion. They aren’t as good as milk or cream cleansers at removing makeup but will certainly give the skin a “clean” feeling. Generally they are gentler on the skin than Foaming Cleansers and less disruptive to the acid mantle. Mukti Gentle Foaming Cleanser and Treasured Earth Lemon & Mango Cleansing Gel

Foaming Cleansers – often leave you with a “squeaky-clean” feel and so are great for acne-prone, congested or oily skin. Most natural foaming cleansers only create tight bubbles rather than lots of foam like cleanser based on synthetic foaming agents. The smaller foaming action means less disruption to the acid mantle and a quicker recovery. Foaming cleanser can be slightly drying for non-oily skin types or in winter when there is less humidity in the air. Examples include: Remedica Black Soap, Devita Aloe Cleanser and Third Stone Botanicals Rose Geranium Cleanser.

If you use a cleanser that is too “strong” for your skin it will have an impact on the protective layer and you may find your skin feeling overly tight. Using a richer moisturizer is a common way of combating the use of the wrong cleanser for your skin type and ultimately it will lead to either dehydrated skin or dehydrated skin with congestion, which is something no-one wants.

On the other hand choosing a cleanser that is too rich for your skin can lead to congestion and/or superficially oily skin. Again not a great outcome! You may find that you need to try a few cleansers to get the best one for your skin. And indeed it may change with the seasons. Myself, I use a cleaning gel in summer and a milk in winter which I have found suits my skin perfectly. As a general rule of thumb, if your skin feels squeaky clean, the cleanser is probably to “strong” for your skin. Your skin should feel clean but not tight after cleansing.

View our range of natural & organic cleanser

I tried to take a tablespoon of Coconut oil once and hated it because it tasted like toasted coconut. So when I was convinced (it was hard work) to try Magic Coconut oil I was sceptical. I was completely surprised – it was delicious and didn’t taste like rich toasted coconut rather like the fresh nut.

Despite the claims that coconut oil can cure most health concerns under the sun (slight exaggeration I think!) there is some good research and a long history of use with Ayurvedic medicine.

The key component of coconut oil is Lauric acid, which the body converts to monolaurin and it is this active that helps the body deal with foreign microbes, yeasts and bacteria. Although coconut oil is comprised of more than 90% saturated fat with traces of unsaturated fatty acids, most of the saturated fats are medium chain triglycerides (MCFA), which the body assimilates well rather than storing as fat or roaming around the body having a damaging effect on the cardiovascular system.

Unlike other saturated fats, the medium chain triglycerides in coconut oil are not bad for the heart. The Lauric acid prevents the increase in LDL (bad cholesterol) and in fact helps to increase HDL (protective cholesterol). In population studies, people who have traditionally consumed large quantites of coconut oil as part of their diet have a lower than normal incidence of heart disease and good cardiovascular health. Keep in mind that traditional diets also include large quantities of whole foods such as fresh fruit, vegetables and whole grains, which have a high antioxidant content.

As a regular part of your diet coconut oil may assist with the management of

• Maintaining healthy cholesterol levels – as above
• Assists with immunity – the antimicrobial, antibacterial and anti-yeast effects help reduce the workload of the immune system
• Digestive function – may assist in combating yeasts and microbial overgrowth in the gut e.g. candida.

Traditionally coconut oil has been applied topically for:

• Hair Care – coconut oil has been used as a hair treatment in Ayurveda for … well forever! It has a conditioning effect helping to nourish dry hair and enhancing the re-growth of new hair. Massaging coconut oil into the scalp as an overnight treatment helps to minimize dandruff and a dry, itchy scalp. In Ayurveda coconut oil is said to have a soothing effect and hence applying coconut oil to the head followed by a gentle head massage helps to remove mental fatigue – whatever the effect, it would sure feel nice.
• Skin Care – an excellent rich massage oil, coconut oil has nourishing and moisturizing qualities ideal for dry skin. The effect of coconut oil on the skin is comparable to using mineral oil but unlike mineral oil, it contains no petrochemicals or contaminants. In Ayurveda coconut oil is traditionally used to manage skin problems including mild skin infections, dermatitis and eczema. It is also ideal oil for helping to nourish pregnant bellies as it deeply nourishes the skin allowing it to stretch further without causing stretch marks.
• Healing Skin – applied to mild infections, coconut oil forms a layer protecting the wound from dust and microbes.

To take coconut oil internally you can use it in cooking as it is a very stable oil. It doesn’t oxidize easily at high temperatures. Alternatively you can mix it into a hot drink (if it is a mild tasting pure oil, you won’t notice the flavour) or even use it as a replacement for flax oil in the Lemon Detox Drink.

Read more about Magic Coconut oil

Covering up redness

A question from a customer struck home for me this month. It was about red skin, not rosacea rather a red or pink tone to the skin. This is more common in pale skins like myself and I have always tended to a slightly pink nose and red cheeks. Ironically now that my skin tone has evened out, I use blush!

This question from Nadia: I am a 39 year old redhead with freckly skin (from the sun!) and fairly red skin on my chin and cheeks, other than that, my skin is in good condition, with no wrinkles and I am regularly told I look late 20’s.   I have had the redness for many years (I have had two try at expensive laser treatment twice, (its not rosacea ), though it hasn’t worked and I was very disappointed.

My skin doesn’t appear to be sensitive at all.  I wear a lot of foundation to cover the redness (I don’t have any freckles on my face).  I would love to get away from wearing foundation all the time, though it is quite a sensitive topic for me, as it stops me doing many outdoor activities, sports etc, as I am always touching up my make up, as I am so self conscious about my skin.

My response to Nadia was: Thank you for your e-mail. Based on what you have written below I have a couple of suggestions. Firstly it is great that your skin looks so good – it shows you have looked after it.

With regard to redness…the cause may be internal. I have attached a link to an article I wrote recently about Facial Diagnosis which looks at the internal causes of skin issues including red skin. The thing that makes my redness worse is when I drink too much coffee, alcohol or eat sugary, processed foods. These foods are pro-inflammatory and so can cause redness in the skin. For me, minimising these foods helps a great deal.

Topically I find that vitamin C products help reduce redness. They increase the antioxidant network in the skin and improve skin immunity all which seem to dampen down redness. Personally, as one with red cheeks, I have used Devita C Accelerate to great effect with redness. I have also used antioxidants internally (vitamins A, C, E and zinc along with grapeseed) and this markedly decreased the redness in my cheeks. The grapeseed works by strengthening the capillary network reducing reactivity and “blushing”.

In addition, while it may not be obvious, sun exposure can contribute to redness over time so wearing sunscreen on your face is important. Where the damage is permanent and long lasting Devita Sun Damage Repair Gel may help as it promotes repair of damaged skin and helps lighten spots. To cover redness, I recommend and use Mineral Makeup (my savior on many occasions). Minerelle, the brand we stock is a professional range and the cover is excellent. I only need to apply once a day for great long-lasting cover.

Ed note: I did go onto to discuss feelings of self-consciousness with Nadia because on a personal note, I do understand the feeling of being self-conscious about my skin. It took me a long time to feel ok about going without makeup and even now sometimes I look in the mirror and think that my skin looks terrible. However, I finally realised that the more I focused on it, the more of an issue it became and I was making myself miserable. These days I am far more accepting of how I look and it is quite frankly, a relief.

I would love to read your comments, how you feel about your skin and what helps you feel better.

Skin type can be confusing to pinpoint particularly when you don’t seem to fit into a particular definition. I often have people ask me what their skin type is because they get dry patches around their cheeks and eyes and an oily nose or chin or T-zone. Commonly called combination this skin type can seem inadequate particularly when there are dry, flakey patches of skin combined with breakouts or oily skin that is sometimes oily and sometimes just congested. And really does it matter what it is called when you have no idea how to manage it. Products for oily skin tend to further dry out already dry areas. Products for dry skin just end up causing increased oiliness and/or congestion. This leads me to question how one product range for a particular skin type can actually manage a combination skin.

Of course there are products for combination skin types and these are a good start for mildly oily and dry combination skin types however, if you are experiencing lots of oiliness with dry skin or even dry skin with breakouts, combination skin ranges usually don’t do much to help.

Mango Cleansing Gel

A recent e-mail from a client illustrates this point: I have very (VERY!) oily, congested, red skin that is often itchy and quite sensitive. I usually have anywhere from 5 to 40 pimples at one time (usually those horrible deep ones that hurt!). I also tend to get eczema, although this is usually on my hands and arms and very rarely on my face, but that may be what is making my face so itchy lately. I can actually feel how congested my skin is and the oil is very hard to control. Any products I use for oily skin often leave my skin feeling tight and itchy. Please help!!

My answer took into account a number of factors which include:

• repair of the acid mantle – this is cricital to stop moisture loss from the skin. At the same time as allowing moisture loss which creates dry areas of skin, poor acid mantle protection will actually stimulate excess oil production in other areas leading to both oily and dry skin at the same time.
• internal nutrition – are there any nutritional issues that are contributing to this condition
• reducing congestion – congestion will contribute to further breakouts
• prioritising treatment – in this case, balancing the acid mantle and correcting nutritional imbalances will have a positive effect on breakouts. This is the priority. Internal nutrition and managing other factors such as hormones, diet, stress etc will help to minimise breakouts as well.

So my reply was: The very first and most important thing I want to say is that the oiliness of your skin together with concurrent dry patches and eczema is likely a reflection of an internal imbalance of essential fatty acids (EFAs) and possibly also B vitamins. It is quite tricky to get EFAs out to the skin as the critical organs such as the heart and brain use them first. So I recommend the drink below as a really quick way of boosting your skin levels which will help relieve dryness and balance out oiliness in about 7-10 days. I have put the recipe below.

In addition I recommend the Remedica Clair Visage at night. This will help to balance the acid mantle of your skin which is currently not protecting your skin. It is a very light oil/hydrosol based serum which will help to nourish skin without contributing to congestion (Editors note: remember from previous blogs that you can use molecularly light oils on oily skin and it will actually help rather than hinder the condition). During the day I recommend the Treasured Earth Balancing Lotion. Daytime is when a lotion is needed rather than an oil as they help to prevent water loss when you are out and about. It is a light but nourishing product. Couple this with the Treasured Earth Mango Cleanser. It is an effective cleanser that doesnt strip the skin. One of the worst things you can do for your skin is to dry it out in hopes that it will stop oil production. Overwashing or using harsh cleansers dries out your skin and causes irritation and inflammation. Your skin will take that as a signal to produce more oil and therefore more acne lesions.

If you find the area around your eyes is particularly dry, use an eye cream. There are no sebaceous glads around the eyes and as such this area is more prone to losing moisture. Any eye cream you use can be richer than the day moisturiser. In effect we are managing your skin in zones, treating the dry areas differently from the oily areas. The Treasured Earth Rose Eye Cream is a nourishing eye cream without being too rich. 

Lemon Flax Drink

• 1 tablespoon of flax oil
• 1 tablespoon of soy lecithin (the German is better than the US version)
• Juice of half a lemon
• 250-300mls of water

Blend on high for 30 seconds. This makes one serve. You can double the quantity and have it before lunch or dinner as well.

Let me know how you go…you may not love the taste but it does such good things for your body.

To help you manage the underlying cause of the breakouts have a look at our Acne Information Page.

As with all things, sometimes we just don’t fit into a neat category. In these cases, don’t give up – look outside the box and try a different solution.

Related Articles:

• How to treat sensitive and acne-prone skin
• Clair Visage – a serum for acne-prone skin
• Myth Busting Facial Oils

Keratosis Pilaris

A couple of people recently have asked me about small bumps on the backs of their arms – what they are, what causes this condition and what can they do about it. The official name for this common skin condition is Keratosis pilaris and it appears as rough, bumpy, sometimes red skin most often found on upper arms, thighs and sometimes even on the cheeks.

It occurs due to a hard protective protein found in skin, hair, and nails called keratin, which builds up, forms a plug blocking the opening of hair follicles. When these plugs, or bumps, become irritated it causes redness.

Keratosis pilaris is a hereditary condition that usually presents in childhood, often worsening during puberty and occasionally continuing into adulthood. Warm weather can cause improvement but the drier weather in winter will commonly exacerbate the condition by drying out skin and further blocking hair follicles. At this stage there is no completely effective treatment however there are a number of things you can do that will improve the overall look and feel of the skin: 

• Dry skin exacerbates this condition so removing any surface dead skin cells will help to keep follicles clear and minimise roughness and bumps. Exfoliate or dry body brush 2-3 times a week. Be gentle as skin irritation can make it look worse. Avoid exfoliating already irritated or broken skin.
• Apply a daily moisturiser to minimise moisture loss from the skin. Use a lotion or cream rather than an oil. Oils will provide nourishment but they don’t tend to stop water evaporating from the skin surface. A lotion or cream with Shea or cocoa butter or jojoba oil (actually a liquid wax) will provide rich hydration.
• Avoid harsh body cleansers (no SLS). Use a gentle natural body wash to avoid stripping the natural oils from the skin and in fact, water will generally wash the area clean without the use of a cleanser. Only use cleanser on the affected area when necessary.
• Safe sun exposure can greatly reduce the appearance of bumps. Be sun safe and go out in the early morning or late afternoon. Limit yourself to 10-15 minutes.
• Nutritional status may play a role in the severity of the condition:
  • Essential Fatty Acids will help to keep the skin hydrated and reduce inflammation  – the Lemon Flax Drink is an ideal way to quickly increase your skin’s EFA content. Otherwise regular consumption of deep sea fish, nuts and seeds and green leafy vegetables will also improve EFA levels. A fish oils supplement is another alternative.
  • The bumps have been linked to low levels of vitamin A and B12. Vitamin A comes from consuming Betacarotene-rich foods including any vegetable that contains yellow, orange or yellow pigment (pumpkin, sweet potato, capsicum etc). Vitamin B12 is found in red meat which eaten in moderation can help increase levels.
  • Low grade dairy intolerance may also be related to the severity of redness and bumps. If you have other symptoms that may be related to dairy consumption it may be worthwhile avoiding it completely for at least 6 weeks to assess the impact on your skin.

 If you experience Keratosis and have had good results with a particular treatment please comment so other readers can benefit from your experience.

One of the product formulators I admire, Lisa Phipps (creator of the Remedica range) recently wrote an article titled “Skin Care Truths”. I agree with so much of what Lisa has to say particularly about the use of skin nutritional oils and skin hydration. In this blog I have included some of Lisa’s comments about skin hydration and how to achieve well hydrated skin. Lisa writes:

Hydration means more than just drinking enough water.

While drinking plenty of water means assisting metabolic mechanisms such as optimum digestion, organ health and elimination of toxins, it is important to know that drinking buckets of water will not translate to plumped hydrated skin surface. When we want to obtain optimum hydration of the skin 3 things are necessary:

1. fluid intake internally
2. topical application of hydrators (humectants) to the skin
3. topically applied moisture retainers (occlusives).

Examples of humectants range from 100% synthetics to synthetically modified naturals and 100% natural ingredients. Lecithin, glycerine, sodium lactate, sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) or some of my favourites. Water IS NOT a humectant. Water is an example of a natural chemical compound that when it evaporates it takes existing moisture with it. So when you apply a simple rose water or lavender water that is advertised as being a hydrating mist, unless the formula contains ingredients that when compounded assist in “occlusion”, retaining moisture or blocking loss of moisture they will have no real meaning to skin care other than temporary relief. Any topically applied Hydrating formula worth its money must be a combination of humectants and occlusives. Simply put, humectants function in water soluble environments such as a water base BUT occlusives function in oil soluble environments such as olive oil, jojoba, tamanu oil, baobab etc. Humectants attract water molecules from the atmosphere and bind that moisture to the skin however the occlusives retain or lock that moisture in so it is not then lost back to the surrounding air.

What is the difference between hydration and protection from dehydration?

Hydration means just that – hydrating the skin….attracting moisture from the atmosphere and binding that moisture to the skin. Protection against dehydration is the “occlusive” mechanism in place to support the skin from not loosing excess moisture. Natural products best used for protecting against dehydration are those formulated with higher lipid (oil), content. 100% oil products would of course offer the most protection against dehydration. The level of comfort to the skin and rate of absorption however would be determined by the individual formulation. Some oils are heavy and some oils are light. Rose hip is an example of heavy oil that is too dense and too nourishing for some skin. Baobab is an example of highly nourishing oil with a very fast absorption rate. This all comes down to personal preference.

When is the best time to concern oneself with protection against dehydration?

Well, of course as stated above, it is always important to incorporate “occlusives” in ones skin care but overall the easiest way to assist the skin in repair, nourishment and protection against dehydration is at night. We are vulnerable to dehydration while we sleep. Using an oil preparation while we sleep is an excellent and simple way to assist the skin in retaining moisture. As mentioned some oils are appropriate and some are not. It is important to always ask about  the suitability of the oils in question for your skin type when purchasing.

View Remedica products

Apart from the myriad of other symptoms, the onset of menopause can cause considerable skin changes in women. Symptoms range from dry, itchy skin to increased oil, thinning skin and acne breakouts.

Changes in hormones, particularly estrogen are responsible for many of the body changes during menopause including skin issues. The role of estrogen in the skin is to stimulate the formation of collagen and oil production. As menopause approaches the levels of estrogen drop and dry skin becomes very common. Increased oiliness and acne-breakouts are less common but also may occur initially as the hormonal profile begins to change. In this case estrogen may drop relative to testosterone which then drives oilier skin. Then as all hormones lower, the body’s oil production decreases as does the oiliness. Due to the reduction in oil production, the oil’s skin-protective effect decreases as does the body’s ability to hold onto moisture.

While dry skin may occur anywhere on the body, from elbows to face to legs, even the nail bed, itchiness tends to be limited to hands.

While these changes are an inevitable result of menopause, there are many ways to manage the skin effects and slow permanent changes.

Manage Dry Skin

1. Consume good fats – essential fatty acids promote the skin’s protective oil barrier and help keep skin from losing moisture. Western diets tend to be low in omega 3 fatty acids and most of us could use a top up. Foods rich in omega 3 include salmon, sardines, anchovies, flax oil, fish oil and green leafy vegetables.
2. Drink water – it makes sense to help maintain hydration.
3. Protect your skin from sun damage – too much sun exposure can dry out your skin and cause long term damage. Use a natural micronised zinc oxide sunscreen. Hats and protective clothing are also important during the middle of the day.
4. Choose a good moisturiser – if your skin is dry or dehydrated, choose a moisturiser that is rich in shea or cocoa butter (stop moisture evaporation) or plant oils (support skin cell health and moisture retention). Other ingredients to look for include hyaluronic acid (helps the skin attract and hold moisture) and antioxidants (maintain the health of the skin cells so they hold onto more moisture)
5. Use oil-based serums at night – oils carry antioxidants and nutrients into the skin ensuring the health of the skin cells. The healthier they are, the more moisture they hold onto and the slower they age.
6. Only wash the areas you need to with soap – I know this is getting personal but your underarms, feet and groin are the key areas that really need soap. If you don’t get dirty on your arms, legs and torso, just let water rinse over you. Washing with soap strips away the layer of natural body oil which means you have to add it back. I am not suggesting you never wash or scrub your body again but maybe less often if your skin is feeling dehydrated.
7. Check out our Dry Skin Info Page for more detailed information

Manage Oily Skin

1. Use a light moisturiser – or even a serum. This will help balance oil production and reduce the potential for breakouts. Have a look at our Oily/Congested Skin Info page for more detail
2. Light exfoliation – this will help keep congestion down and allow moisturisers to penetrate the skin more effectively. Choose a gentle exfoliant with even exfoliant beads e.g. Mukti Exfoliant or Devita Gentle Exfoliation.
3. Monitor your skin closely as this phase is unlikely to last. As soon as you notice your skin become less oily, change to more appropriate products. Don’t assume it will stay oily.

Maintain Skin Collagen Levels

1. Exercise – this is important for all aspects of health during and after menopause including bone density and heart healthy. It can also help to keep skin healthy by increasing the nutrients and oxygen that are circulated to your skin.
2. Use cosmeceutical ingredients to slow collagen breakdown and support new growth. Vitamin C is one of the most significant collagen supporting nutrients.
3. Read our Slow Aging Info Page for more detail about supporting collagen health

Well not quite aspirin, rather white willowbark. This herbal extract has been used for centuries as an anti-inflammatory and was actually the original source for the now synthetically produced pain reliving drug aspirin. Apart from its pain-relieving effects, applied topically white willowbark has anti-acne, sebum control and exfoliation properties. The active component of white willowbark is salicylic acid, a form of beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) which works by causing skin cells to slough off, reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. The added bonus is that it also has a natural antiseptic effect thereby reducing the bacterial overgrowth often associated with acne.

In this video, the use of white willowbark is explained further by Celeste Lutrario the creator of Burt’s Bees Natural Acne Solutions.

One question I am regularly asked is how to improve brittle, easily broken nails. Will a manicure help? My standard reply is, yes a manicure is lovely and it will help in the short term but ongoing care is what will really improve your nails. I found these great tips from Mukti of Mukti Botanicals:

Natural Nail Care

The nail is extremely porous and exudes moisture one hundred times as fast as the skin. So preventing moisture loss is essential:

• Wear gloves when working with chemicals, in the garden etc
• Keep a jar of hand cream by the bathroom and kitchen sinks. Wearing gloves as above applies when doing the dishes.
• Push back your cuticles when washing your hands and applying a hand cream.

Massaging the cuticle area will increase the circulation and encourage new nail growth. Other ways of protecting from nail breakages include:

• Never cut your cuticles. The cuticle is the protective barrier between the nail and the skin
• To protect nails before gardening scratch a bar of soap first. This will prevent dirt form getting under the nails
• Keep nail length the same on all fingers
• Always file the nail in the same direction not back and forth

Too little protein in the diet will make nails dull and brittle.

• Good sources of protein include lean animal products, dairy, seafood, nuts & seeds, tofu and soya bean products and legumes.
• Other internal supplementation that may assist with brittle nails include silica, calcium, magnesium zinc and vitamin E which will not only assist with improving the condition of the nails but also the skin and hair.

For well nourished nails, a good hand cream or cuticle oil is a must. Look for the following ingredients in a good quality hand crème (Ed note: I love the new hand cream from Pure & Green Organics):

Calendula:

Rich in beta-carotene it has renowned anti-inflammatory and healing properties. It is very useful for skin inflammations and dry mature skin. Extracts of Calendula exert the following effects: they assist with the stimulation and formation of new tissue, anti- inflammatory and anti-itching properties which are soothing to the skin, as well as gently promoting improved circulation.

Aloe Vera:

It has soothing, moisturising and healing properties and contains a plethora of additional goodies such as vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes, antioxidants as well as mono and polysaccharides. It can relieve irritation and inflammation. It has also been implicated in assisting with cell regeneration. It leaves no oily residue on the skin and will not clog the pores or increase sebum production.

Vitamin E:

It helps to repair collagen. A lack of vitamin E can lead to blotchiness, loss of firmness of skin tone and give the impression of premature aging. It is an excellent moisturiser as it improves skin re-hydration by preventing moisture loss. It is readily absorbed and helps to maintain soft and supple skin. Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant and is required by the body to fight the occurrence of free radicals.

A Quick Sugar Scrub for smooth hands:

Massage 1 tablespoon of lemon juice mixed with 1-2 tablespoons of sugar. Rinse off then apply a hand cream.

A daily Cuticle Softener:

Combine 1 tsp jojoba oil, 1 tsp almond oil and 1 vitamin E capsule. Mix together and store in a clean glass bottle. Soak cuticles in warm water for ten minutes. Dry hands then rub in oil treatment. If all else fails and you don’t have these ingredients at home, use olive oil!

Author: Mukti from Mukti Botanicals

This question from a customer is interesting because it details a number of skin issues at once and the question is then, what to do first? Can everything be managed at once? I have a method for improving pretty much any skin condition or issue that I am asked about and I have outlined it below. It starts at the foundation of good skin health and progresses from there. This questions illustrates the process:

Q: Firstly, thank you for all the excellent information you provide via your blog, newsletter and mini skin care course. It really is very good especially since there is so much (misleading) information out there. My email is regarding the following:

I have been using Akin products for some time now but I think it is time for change. I am 36 and I have noticed that my skin condition has changed significantly in the last 5 years. I think I need to change to skin care specifically for slowing the ageing process.

I have very dry skin (I often reapply moisturizer in the afternoon), my skin is losing elasticity, wrinkles are certainly visible, I have some sun damage and hormone spots from pregnancies. I am fair and my skin is delicate.

Can you help me with advice on:

• Skin care products for everyday use to properly care for dry skin and slow the ageing process.
• Advice on sun protection product for my face.

A: Reading your e-mail I suggest we work with the skin issues you have outlined in the following way (in order of priority):

1. repair dehydration and correct nutrient status – at the very outset, this will help your skin to plump out and look younger. It is also the basis for healthy skin.
2. correct sun damage – this will take about 3 months but will really make a difference to your skin. Sun damage is a visible sign of skin ageing. It is at this stage that any other skin issues are addressed e.g. pigmentation, rosacea, irritation
3. support slow ageing – some of what we do above will be slow ageing but once your skin is hydrated and sun protected, we can look at longer term slow aging. The reason I put anti-aging 3rd is that by addressing the other issues (if they are present) you will achieve healthier, younger looking skin anyway. Then we can start with specific anti-aging skin care.

For dry skin, choose a lotion cleanser instead of a gel cleanser. The AUM Brightening Cream Cleanser is ideal as it also contains enzymes to help clear congestion and reduce sun damage but is gentle on dry skin at the same time. Use an oil serum at night to help improve the moisture holding capacity of the skin cells. You can apply the serum instead of a night cream. Any serum you use should sink into the skin completely within 5 minutes.  Remedica Regenerate Visage will nourish the skin deeply and more than that, help improve the skin cell health due to the high antioxidant and essential fatty acid levels. Then address sun damage. I suggest a moisturiser with a natural sunscreen agent such as Devita Solar Protect (SPF 30). If it feels too light, use half a pump of Regenerate Visage and then apply the Solar Protect over the top.

With existing sun damage you have a couple of options. You can cover it up (and I am going to suggest a make up below) and/or you can fade back the pigmentation using a natural skin brightening serum. I used the Devita Skin Brightening Serum with great effect myself this year. Pigmentation I thought would never fade has and I have skin quite similar to yours – fair & dry.

It will take about 3 weeks for you to really see a difference in your skin hydration and at about 3 months, the pigmentation should start to fade back significantly. After 4-6 months we can look at some more specific slow aging products such as vitamin C serums etc but until then, they won’t be as effective as they could be.

I would love to hear if you have a similar story and what you have done to manage either dry or pigmented skin.

Related Articles:

• Dry Skin Solutions
• Skin Solutions – Dry, Dull or Dehydrated