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Have you heard of lymphatic drainage massage? This technique is probably the most we hear about the lymphatic system in general. Unlike the urinary system or digestive system, the lymph system tends to be viewed as the necessary but often ignored wall-flower in the process of detoxification.

In fact, the lymphatic system is a complex drainage network involving fluids, vessels and organs. Its

primary role is to remove cellular waste, proteins, foreign bodies, excess fluid, toxins and other microorganisms and return them to the bloodstream. Via the lymph nodes, this system helps to filter out toxins purify our bodies of waste.

There are approximately 6-10 litres of lymph in the body at any one time, which is pumped around via muscular contraction and movement. Lymph flows in one direction only – usually upwards towards the heart. When the body is under stress (infection, stress, lack of physical activity, dehydration, toxic overload) tissue swelling can result and protein accumulation in the lymph nodes occurs. The result is a build up of toxins, which can end up affecting the normal function of the cells. Long tem this can lead to underactive metabolic function of cells.

A classic example of chronic lymphatic congestion is the formation of cellulite, which is related in part to lymphatic congestion and poor blood flow to the affected areas. You can confirm the poor blood-flow yourself by feeling any areas of your body that have cellulite – they feel cooler than other areas of your skin due to the lack of warm blood supply to the area.

The body tries to protect itself from free toxins floating around in the body…after all they can damage our primary organs. As a result toxins are stored in many different ways in the body – mucus in the respiratory system, deposits in fat cells, as cholesterol or around the joints. Stimulating the flow of toxins out of the body by promoting lymphatic flow can help reduce your body’s overall toxic load.

There are a number of easy and effective ways to promote lymphatic flow including:

• dry body brushing
• massage
• vigorous exercise
• hydration
• muscular activity (weights, yoga, tai chi or pilates).

Jodie from Bodecare promotes dry body brushing as it stimulates the dense network of nerves that run just under the skin layer, which in-turn increase blood circulation and the function of the lymphatic system.

Another method suggested by Jodie is alternate cold and hot showers. This method for alternate showers comes from the Bodecare website:

Did you know that a prolonged hot shower without alternation with cool water (the type of shower most people take) is fatiguing and causes circulatory congestion? On the other hand, the properly performed Alternate Hot and Cold Shower exercises the circulatory system, nerves, endocrine glands and skin.

For best results of an Alternate Hot/Cold Shower you can use the following steps as a guide:

1. Conduct Bodecare’s Dry Body Brushing routine (details on how-to-guide)
2. Begin warm to hot shower for 2-3 minutes.  Water should be at a comfortable temperature.
3. Follow with a cold shower for 15 seconds. Once again water should be at a comfortable temperature.
4. Repeat with hot and cold shower at 15 seconds each.
5. Towel dry

For related articles see below:

Cellulite – is there ANYTHING I can do about it?

The pleasure of a morning cuppa had been increased by the emergence of the many health benefits from tea of all kinds – black, green and oolong (white). Heart disease, gum disease, cancer and even weight loss. In addition to these health benefits tea has emerged as a significant therapeutic ingredient active against skin damage.

The many medicinal properties of tea are attributed to phytochemicals called polyphenols of which catechins are the

principle subtype. White and green tea has the highest concentrations of catechins with up to 25% being standard. While black tea contains 4% on average. There are many types of catechins but those that have been studied most extensively in relation to skin phyto-ageing are epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG).

Research assessing the benefits of green tea for skin has shown that topical application can reduce sun damage. Green tea does not have a UV ray blocking effect like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide however there is a synergistic effect when combined with either of these ingredients. The benefit is achieved by blocking free radicals and reducing inflammation and apart from reducing sun damage it may also help slow the skin aging associated with sun damage.

The findings above applied equally to white tea in clinical trials. Interestingly, while black tea contains less than a quarter of the EGCG of green or white tea, it also has a protective effect against sun damage and reduces erythema (reddening of the skin). Based on these findings it is worthwhile considering a sunscreen that contains green, white or black tea extract.

Green tea in particular has been showed benefits for papulopustular rosacea. The particular study used a lotion containing a

tea extract which produced a 70% improvement in rosacea when compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone. The most significant finding was a reduction in inflammatory lesions when compared to placebo.

While not focused on topical application an interesting result using oolong tea was achieved in patients with chronic atopic dermatitis. Patients in the trial maintained their standard dermacological treatment and at the same time drank 3 cups of oolong tea per day that had been steeped for 5 minutes. After only one month of treatment, which is a relatively short period of time, 63% of patient showed marked to moderate improvement and the response was still evident 6 months after the trial in 54% of patients. The authors of the trial suggest the antiallergic properties of the tea polyphenols are responsible for the result.

One study that looked at the role green tea may play in slowing photoaging gave participants a 10% green tea cream and 300mg supplement twice daily or placebo over an 8 week period. However, while there was a significant improvement in elastic tissue there were no obvious visible signs of skin improvement. Given the trial was only 8 weeks, longer supplementation may be required for clinical results to become obvious.

Another quite specific use for green tea is to reduce the skin damage from of radiotherapy. Skin toxicity is a common side effect of radiotherapy for solid tumors. In one study a green tea extract made by steeping a green tea bag in water was applied to damaged skin. It showed that green tea supported the restitution of skin integrity by inhibiting inflammation and mediating local immune responses. In addition the higher catechin content of green tea may be responsible for the considerable antibacterial effect often seen in super-infected skin lesions common to hospitalised patients. This study shows potential for green tea to have greater benefit than just reducing inflammation, in particular an antibacterial effect which significantly widens the scope of use in skin conditions such as acne and skin infections.

The benefits for green tea are numerous and particularly effective in the area of sun protection and phytodamage. The issue with the use of creams that there is generally no indication of the percentage of extract in the cream and it could be anything from waving a tea bag over the top to significant levels up around 10%. In addition, the quality of extract may not be known or not specific for skin application. For example, the green tea extracts that are beneficial contain more caffeine (although

this isn’t the only active required) where as EGCG or catechins are required (as far as we know from clinical trials) to help slow sun damage.

Tea Tips

• Look for sunscreens that contain green, white or black tea for the additional phytoprotective effect
• Make your own tea treatment at home by brewing quality organic green or oolong tea and freezing into icecubes or put into a spritz bottle and refrigerate. Alternatively use our Remedica Hydra Mist with a base of green tea.
• Use the left over tea bags as soothing patches for eyes
• Make up your own green tea cream by adding the chosen extract to a base cream. Base it on the extract making up 10% of the final mix. Use an extract standardized to EGCG.
• During Summer, make up a pot of green tea, add some ice cubes and honey to taste. Refrigerate and drink throught the day.

The concept of products that make an “instant” difference is I think for many women the Holy Grail…and yes, I would love to find it. Maybe I am impatient but I want to see a difference in my skin particularly when I wake up in the morning looking like I have been dragged through a hedge backwards (ok it doesn’t happen often but when it does, I want to put on a product that makes it all go away). Seriously though, skin cells take between 90-120 days to turn over (be replaced by new skin cells)  so most skin care takes that amount of time to see a visible ongoing difference – this is how long it takes for real skin change/improvement to happen. I am not saying you won’t see changes sooner but anything less is usually temporary.  However, as I have discovered there are some exceptions, products that give your skin a quick lift, often short-lived but enough so that I can walk out of the house without serious luggage under my eyes. So dear readers, here is my list of instant saviors and pick me ups:

La Mav Line Perfector

I discovered the benefits of this cream one morning after a very late night. Despite reading the ingredients I hadn’t quite realised that it has a rapid effect on fine lines and wrinkles. The natural active Rhizobian gum, which is a hydrolysed biopolymer naturally produced by microorganisms living in plant roots has an immediate tightening effect on skin…it has been described as a Botox-like effect. The tightening effect lasts about 4 hours. The other ingredients in the product have ongoing skin nourishing effects so this product isn’t just about the short term effects….but it is a definite benefit!

Green Tea Spritz

Green Tea has a potent antioxidant effect as well as reducing inflammation on burnt or reddened skin. When stored in the fridge, the low temperature of the tea will also have a cooling effect on hot skin. For this reason it is ideal for those with rosacea or any skin redness, sunburn or irritation.

Make your own spritz at home by brewing quality organic green tea. Leave it for 5 minutes to steep then let cool. Once cool pour it into a spritz bottle and refrigerate. Use liberally as required. Each brew lasts about 3 days. Alternatively you can freeze the tea into ice cubes. Don’t apply a frozen cube directly to the skin. Wrap in a cloth and gently apply to the affected area. The cube will melt onto the skin having the same effect as the spritz.

Chamomile Tea Bags

This is another fantastic home remedy that is useful for sore, tired or puffy eyes. Chamomile has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial effects which help soothe sore eyes. You need to steep the bag for 3 minutes in hot water. You can either drink the tea or once cool, use it to bathe your eyes. Put the tea bags in the fridge and when you are ready, lie down and place one over each eye. Relax.

Remedica Sensitive Visage

This oil and hydrosol based serum is a gentle nutritive for sensitive or inflamed/irritated skin. It contains a potent combination of anti-inflammatories (St John’s Wort, Chamomile) and antioxidants (Green Tea) which will help quickly reduce patchiness and redness and soothe irritation. Used long term, it will help strengthen damaged and chronically inflamed skin.

Lemon Detox Drink

Now I know I bang on and on about the usefulness of the Lemon Detox Drink but it really is just so effective for increasing skin moisture – both oil and water content. The healthier the fatty membrane of the skin cell is, the more moisture it contains. One recent example of the success of this drink is a lady who came into to the store with chronic skin dryness. Her skin had been dry for years. Interestingly she wasn’t coming for skin care but for massage and it was the massage therapist who asked me what her client could do about it. I gave her client the recipe for this drink and a jar of Remedica Vanilla & Shea Body Butter and thought no more about it. The next week, the massage therapist had noticed a significant improvement in her clients skin since her visit the week before. The client, as you can imagine, was delighted and continues with her “skin hydration” program.

Minerelle Make Up

One of my fallback saviors for red, patchy or just tired skin is my mineral makeup. Usually I just brush on a light layer but if my skin is not looking its best, I know I can apply several layers of  makeup without looking like I have spac-filled my face. To do this, I use a small multi brush and put a layer of Minerelle over any red, patchy or dark areas on my face e.g. under my eyes, over breakouts or broken capillaries. I then apply a light layer of makeup over the top using the powder brush and gently blend the colour in. Personally I cannot go past Minerelle as my favorite make up for both everyday use and the days I would rather not leave the house!

Remedica Vanilla & Shea Body Butter

I know I mentioned this product above but it deserves its own segment. In Winter the skin on my body tends to dry out. I drink lots of water and have my good fats but the humidity in Brisbane is so low in contrast to the Summer months, that it really plays havoc with my skin. Remedica Vanilla & Shea Body Butter is my answer. Based on pure Shea butter it is so nourishing but without the greasy feel. And it smells great. I have done a video blog about this product which discusses the benefits of Shea butter in general. View the video here.

So they are my pick of instant skin pick-me-ups. I would LOVE to hear about yours. What home remedies or products do you use?

I am a recent convert to eye creams but now that I am, I am addicted. My twice daily indulgence is applying the Haven Scent Rosehip Eye Cream to my eye area. However, there are many different choices when it comes to eye creams and each one tends to focus on a different eye issue be it puffiness, dark circles or fine lines and wrinkles. In this video I discuss which natural eye creams are better for each issue and how to choose which one is right for you….or if you even need one at all.

View our natural & organic eye creams.

This is a new blog section that I will post from time to time and it is essentially us letting you know about our favorite products. This time is Roechelle’s turn and her favorite product is the Lavera Mint Blemish Stick. While Roechelle has had a history of breakouts, she has done heaps of great work healing her skin and at Vitale we are really impressed with the changes she has made to life. I have done a product review video below but first here is what Roechelle has to say:

“Even though this product is a cover up, I actually put it on at night to help it heal any blemishes I have. It is also great for soothing and cooling blind pimples. There is something in it that really helps to reduce the inflammation (Ed note: the oils are rich in omega 3 & 6 so help reduce inflammation and the mint essential oil is cooling).”

Out and about in Paddington recently I came across what was for me a completely new concept in hair – a colour-only salon. Curious, as I tend to be, I ventured in and it was what I didn’t see rather than what I did that was interesting. Instead of the traditional mirror facing cutting chairs, I was seated at a large table with a floral display. There wasn’t a mirror in sight…well not until later anyway. There were also no hair cutters. This salon is for colour only. Popping up around Brisbane, colour salons are ideal for women, and men, that want color specialists to determine the best hair colour for them.

My appointment followed standard hair salon lines with a few nice treats thrown in. I was treated to a relaxing shoulder massage and then had an in depth discussion about what particular shade of brown I wanted my hair. I was given wine, nuts and numerous magazines to read while waiting for my hair to dye. I didn’t have to look in one mirror during this entire 40 minute or so process and I didn’t miss it at all! At the end of the consultation, I was moved to a styling room (with mirrors) and had my “hair do” completed.

Initially I wondered how a colour only salon would survive with so many standard cutting and colour salons to compete with. However, as I drank my glass of wine, I contemplated the many people that would suit this very concept and I decided that I was one. With curly hair, I only need a cut every 12 or so weeks. However, colour is another matter and I make a regular visit every 6 weeks for a “top up”. I also remembered the numerous times I have asked for ash brown and emerged with magenta or chestnut hair which just accentuates the red tones in my skin and makes me look like Ronald McDonald. With the focus across all industries on specialization, there is definitely room for technicians that specialize in matching hair colour to skin and eye tone.

So once complete, I made a follow up appointment and now I visit the colour salon every 6 weeks or so and see my regular hairdresser for a cut only every 12 weeks. And I am spectacularly happy with the colour of my hair! To experience this for yourself visit Micolor in Paddington for your very own colour consultation. (Tell Leah & Megan I sent you!)

Of course, another big trend is environmental consciousness. There is a growing awareness of the importance of ecologically sustainable products and all industries are “greening up”. However, expectations still remain high for the best in technological development and performance…and in the hair industry a natural henna dye just doesn’t cut it!

Finding the balance between environmental responsibility and modern technology is the challenge, and there are a growing number of haircare

brands that are meeting this challenge by creating products that address both. Ranges such as Eko Organica, Nature’s Symphony, H2 Colour, Organic Hair Systems and Essensity Care Collection are proving that they are not only viable alternatives from an environmental perspective but that they also provide the high level of performance that we all want.

Natural hair colours which are free from ammonia, fragrance, silicones, paraffin, mineral oils, parabens and formaldehyde-derivates used only be available in home DYI kits. I spent too many years with multi-coloured hair and hair dye stains on my bathroom sink to go there again. Fortunately now you can experience professional hair colour ranges in salons so you can have the best of both, great colour done by a professional and be pampered at the same time. Naturally Organic Hair Salons in Toombul uses Organic Hair Systems again with no ammonia, no parabens or sodium laurel sulphate. They see their salon as a viable alternative for those with sensitive scalps and skin. Micolor in Paddington uses the Essensity range. Krop Hair in Norman Park also uses ammonia free hair colours.

Have you had any unique salon moments, disasters or glamour moments? Tell us about your hair care experiences and the brands you love.

This question about cellulite is from a reader and so I did some research and here is what my research turned up:

Orange peel skin is a skin issue that up to 80% of women have to contend with. Most commonly seen in the bottom and thighs cellulite affects women with varying degrees of “dimpliness” and associated body image distress. It is possible to minimise the appearance of cellulite, however, the treatment requires more than just use of a miracle cream and can take time to have an effect.

Cellulite occurs in the subcutaneous layer, which is top layer of fat just under the skin surface. Between the subcutaneous layer and the dermis there is net of fiberous connective tissue, the septae, which stores fat cells in compartments. Due to decreases in microcirculation and increases in fluid retention and blood pooling the septae become less flexible and pressure builds up pushing the fat cells against the skin. With time, the septae become a fiberous honeycomb structure that traps the fat cells causing the large bumps that are the hallmark of cellulite. The area has very poor blood supply, which is why the skin where cellulite occurs often feels cold to touch and poor lymphatic flow so is not easily removed by diet and exercise.

The cause of cellulite is not clear-cut. The common triggers are as mentioned above, are poor microcirculation and lymphatic flow however, what causes these changes in the first place is the issue. Genetics certainly plays a role with those susceptible to cellulite having an increased number of fat cells, poor tissue integrity including blood vasculature and lymphatic vessels and hormonal sensitivities.

Hormonal issues are strongly indicated with the balance between androgens and estrogens being indicated. Men with low androgen levels are more likely to develop cellulite. Estrogen is the likely driver in women, with higher levels promoting the growth of fat cells around the breast, thighs and buttocks.

A sedentary lifestyle may contribute to a worsening appearance of cellulite, as it is associated with weight gain, which can increase the pressure of the fats cells protruding into the dermis. It is important to note however, that excess weight is

not the cause of cellulite and it is equally found in individuals of normal and low weight, as it is those that are overweight. On the other hand exercise encourages the flow of lymph (removing waste products) and circulation (supplying nutrition) and may improve the appearance of cellulite.

There are no proven treatments for cellulite however stimulating the dormant, subcutaneous fat to be more active and encouraging its re-absorption back into the body metabolism may assist. This incorporates improving local blood and lymph flow to the area. In addition increasing the elasticity of skin will mean it is better able to cope better with increased fat volume.

Most topical products aimed at treating cellulite contain cellular metabolism stimulants. Some examples include carnitine, cayenne and caffeine all of which theoretically increase lipolisis (fat metabolism). Some also include ingredients that increase skin tissue integrity by promoting lymph or blood flow such as rosemary oil, gotu kola or horse chestnut or decrease fluid retention such as birch oil. The most popular by far are caffeine containing creams which are based on the effect of caffeine to promote lymphatic drainage from tissues thereby removing fluid retention and increasing lipolysis (cellular metabolism) which promote breakdown of cellular fat. While potentially effective in theory, no research backs up the effectiveness of caffeine for the treatment of cellulite so before you rush out to buy a cream, try massaging the coffee grains from your morning cup into cellulite affected skin each day and see what happens. If too messy and you do choose to work with a topical product, choose one that contains both cellular metabolism stimulants and improves the integrity of the skin. (Ed note: I couldn’t find any good natural cellulite creams so please comment and let us know at vitaleblog if you have used one)

Other topical treatments that may assist include massage and skin brushing the area affected by cellulite, which help to stimulate both the lymphatic system and the microcirculation. Done daily, dry skin brushing will improve the overall appearance of the skin as it also helps remove the top layer of dead skin cells.

Using dietary measures to improve cellular health will not only make you feel better, it may well help you to reduce cellulite. However no specific diets have research to support anti-cellulite claims. That being said many are associated with a reduction in the key factors that promote of cellulite such as inflammation, poor microcirculation, connective tissue weakness and sluggish fat metabolism. Reducing dairy and sugar consumption seems to have the greatest effect on minimizing the appearance of cellulite. Both dairy and sugar are associated with inflammation and dairy is high in saturated fats, which can impact microcirculation and fat metabolism. (I haven’t yet found a better resource about dietary concerns than Karen Fischer’s book The Healthy Skin Diet). A diet high in good oils, whole grains, fruit & vegetables and water will minimize the key cellulite triggers as well as improve cellular health and general wellbeing.

If all else fails and you have an emergency trip to the beach, fake tan can help temporarily reduce the appearance of cellulite as can a good pair of swimmers (I wear these Vintage-style swimmers and love the cover they provide) and some board shorts or a sarong. Try to use a fake tan based on natural ingredients such as betacarotene as this will minimise the use of chemicals that may in fact contribute to cellular toxicity.  And remember most of all to focus on your best assets and the parts of the body that you do love because above all, confidence in yourself is attractive.

Related Videos:

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I am asked how to manage skin conditions on a regular basis. Sometimes it is a straightforward question however often queries involve more than one skin issue such as received this e-mail from a young woman living in Europe. She is moving back to Australia and had some questions about how to manage her skin. What I love about this e-mail is that the writer wants to work out what is really going on with her skin rather than just relying on temporary solutions (antibiotics). She wrote that she also eats a good diet and exercises which is not only great from a wellbeing perspective but helps with skin complaints for so many reasons.

I was wondering if you could recommend a regime for my very sensitive and acne-prone skin? I am currently living in Europe and tried using the Dr Hauschka products (Ed note: as with any product they suit some and not others. Dr Hauschka generally has excellent feedback) for oily/blemished skin a couple of months ago, however whether because of stress or the weather or the new products (not sure what) my acne has become so severe that my doctor convinced me to take an antibiotic to help it. I am moving back to Australia next week and am searching for a new skin care regime – in the long run I really want to treat my skin problem naturally and I know the antibiotics are only a short term fix. My acne is almost exclusively around my chin and jaw-line, and although the rest of my skin is also oily it rarely gets blemishes. However the skin on my chin is often dry and flaky (as well as red and inflamed…) and I find it difficult to exfoliate it without irritating the existing blemishes. I am at a loss as to what else to try in order to clear up my skin. Any advice would be much appreciated!

My reply was as follows: I think a couple of things are underlying your skin issues. Firstly it sounds like the acid mantle of your skin is unbalanced thus producing dry and oily sections. This needs to be repaired in order to balance out your combination skin. This would also account for the sensitivity – without an effective acid mantle there is a greater likelihood of skin reactions. To balance out the acid mantle you need a very gentle cleanser that allows the skin a quick recovery to its normal pH after cleansing and I also recommend a balancing serum or lotion.

In addition, breakouts around the chin area tend to be related to either digestive issues or hormones. If it is hormonal, you will notice your skin is worse around your period or ovulation. If not then it may be related to digestive issues. While somewhat strange to ask about via e-mail, think about whether or not your digestive system is as good as it could be and if not, it may be an underlying contributing factor to your skin issues. We can look into this in more depth when you come to Brisbane.

Using the antibiotic will help initially but as you say, eventually you want to treat the underlying issues. Taking probiotics will help overcome any issues with taking antibiotics.

Your diet sounds good so it is unlikely to be the issue however, I can send you a copy of our Vitale Clean Skin Diet if you would like to read it and in addition I recommend Karen Fischer’s Book, The Healthy Skin Diet. It is excellent and covers nutritional issues as well as dietary ones.

The products I recommend are:

Remedica Anago Black Soap – very gentle, this cleanser is has mild antiseptic qualities, is mildly anti-inflammatory and allows the skin a rapid recovery after use. It is ideal for oily and blemish prone skin.

Serum for acne prone & sensitive skin

Remedica Clair Visage – a balancing serum ideal for skin that is dry and oily. It helps heal, reduce inflammation and balance oiliness. Only half a pump at night is needed so this will last around 5-6 months.
Third Stone Botanicals Cederwood Moisture Gel – a light daytime gel that protects and balances oily skin

Initially I don’t recommend you use an exfoliant. Your skin is too sensitive. Once it has healed ie acid mantle repair and the inflammation has reduced, you can use a very gentle one such as Third Stone Botanicals Almond Rose Exfoliant.

Treating skin that is sensitive can be so tricky. I have one client at the moment and we are going through a process of elimination both with skin care products and diet & lifestyle. Sometimes it just takes finding the right products and sometimes it requires a more in-depth approach with nutrition, diet and lifestlye changes. However, I find the first and often most effective step is to stop the use of all products that contain synthetic ingredients, SLS foaming agents and strong fragrances. With the young woman above, we will see how she goes with natural, low or no fragranced (and certainly no artificial fragrances) products and therapeutic serums to manage both the sensitivity and the breakouts.

I would love to hear what experiences you have had with using products on your skin issues…dry, sensitive, oily, breakouts. Share what you have used with me and the Vitaleblog readers. And if you have any questions about skin issues, I would be happy to answer them.

I have always been curious about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). While there was lots of good research around about their benefits there was also some about their potential side effects. So it has been an ingredient I have treated with caution and before I researched the ingredient, some suspicion. I think I am a bit of a cynic – I have to know about an ingredient before I am ready to embrace it. I also don’t like to leave stones unturned so when I realised the potential benefits of AHAs, I decided to give them a try. Who better to try it out on than myself? So this is part one of a blog about “My AHA Experiment”. The next installment will come at the end of 6 months.

AHAs (I use this term to cover BHAs or beta hydroxy acids as well) have a two fold effect. The first thing they do is reduce congestion – woopee, I need some of that! You can see the effects of this action relatively quickly (i.e. 10 days to 3 weeks). The second is to reduce sun damage and improve skin texture. According to clinical skin trials, this takes up to 6 months. I have been using the Devita AHA product for about 5 weeks now and I review the product as well as talk about the benefits and potential issues with the use of AHAs. So installment one of “My AHA Experiment” is below. I will get back to you with an update…in about 5 months time!

“My AHA Experiment”

Click here to view Devita AHAs

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We wash, style and blow-dry in order to tame our often un-ruly tendrils. Yet some of the everyday hair care practices we use are actually doing more damage than good. This article takes a look at the issues we face in our efforts to achieve well groomed, shiny and healthy hair.

The average human head has about 100 000 hair follicles and from each one emerges a shaft of hair. Nourished by blood vessels the follicles produce new keratin cells promoting the constant growth of new hair. The inner layer or medulla,

which is protected by the outer keratin cells, contains pigment cells (for colour), fat granules and oxygen. Separate glands run alongside the follicle producing sebum, a natural hair and scalp conditioner. Straight, shiny hair is the result of sebum produced by the glands easily travelling the length of the hair shaft. By contrast, curly hair will often look and feel dry because the sebum has a more difficult time getting from the base of the hair shaft to the tip.

The overall health of the hair depends on numerous factors however nutritional status is key. There are no topically applied hair products that can compensate for poor nutrition. Hair cannot repair itself because it is already dead tissue. However, you can grow healthier hair from the “inside-out”. Healthy hair depends on a constant supply of blood, oxygen and nutrients to grow and maintain the look and feel. Any deficiency in key hair nutrients will show up in our skin, hair and nails first, before affecting our internal organs. Therefore, brittle, dry, dull hair that easily breaks may actually be a signifier to check your general nutritional status.

Hair is predominately made up from protein so a deficiency can result in changes to the colour and texture resulting in brittle, weak and thinning hair. Eating protein 3-5 week will help maintain your levels. If you have had a protein deficiency you will notice hair returning to healthy condition within 12 weeks of correcting the deficiency, as the new hairs grow through.

In addition diets high in sugar and animal fats may contribute to poor hair health. An imbalance between good and bad fat consumption can either lead to an overly dry and flaky scalp and dry hair or excessive oil production. Correcting the imbalance will help to normalise the health of the scalp and the relative dryness or oiliness of the hair. High sugar consumption creates a higher demand for B group vitamins, which can also affect hair health. Reducing highly processed and sugar rich foods will not only help hair health, it will also improve general health.

While internal factors affect hair health, external factors also have the potential to damage hair. If you have ever washed your hair with soap you would know that it tends to get tangled and knotty afterwards. The outer “scales” on the hair shaft stand up when in the presence of an alkali, such as soap and get caught up creating a tangled, messy “do”. The scales will lie down flat in the presence of an acid such as lemon juice or vinegar, which is why vinegar hair rinses were traditionally used after washing. While shampoos don’t create this effect they come with their own set of issues as they are stronger cleansers than soap and strip more of the natural oils from the scalp and hair, leaving it dry and in desperate need of moisture. This is where conditioners come in, their key functions to make the hair scales lie back down and coat the hair so that it feels smooth again.

In addition the type of surfactant used to clean hair in shampoos can be problematic with those such as sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphate contributing to irritated and dry scalp and hair issues. Softer surfactants such as decyl glucoside, coco glucoside or coco betaine are better choices for both hair and scalp health.

In general try to avoid conditioners and stying products with added silica as these will just build up on the hair shaft and create “artificially” shiny and silky hair. They will also increase the need to wash hair which in turn dries out hair again, creating a cycle of poor hair management and ultimately, poor hair health.

How often we wash hair is an individual choice however, most people tend to wash their hair too frequently, each time stripping back the protective oils from the scalp and hair. If your scalp is dry or itchy, try waiting one extra day before washing allowing the sebum to protect the scalp for a longer period. Twice weekly for normal to dry hair is a good benchmark. Obviously oily hair needs to be washed more frequently and often daily. Washing hair often entails blow-drying or straightening which if done excessively, damage the hair shaft. The less you dry & straighten, the better your hair condition will tend to be.

Hair styling agents can also impact on the health of the hair and more importantly your general health. In conventional styling products synthetic plastics such as PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone polymer), acrylic copolymers, VA (vinyl acetate)

polymer and acrylamide polymer are used as holding agents, all of which are synthetic petroleum based plastics. While these may not be specifically damaging to your hair, they are not environmentally friendly and in addition are easily absorbed through the scalp thereby contributing to the total toxic load your body has to deal with. Look instead for natural products such as beeswax or coconut oil based products for strong hold pastes or gels and sugar biopolymer based products from corn or vegetables instead of hair spray or mousse. The natural wax products will also help to keep the hair shaft moisturised. Generally styling products based on such ingredients are healthier for you and for the environment.

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Natural Styling – straight or curly

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Foaming or Fuming