vitaleblog.org

Every year I feel the change of season in my skin. It feels tighter, drier and any colour I achieved during summer starts to fade. The change of season has a big impact on the look and feel of our skin and no amount of makeup will make our skin look good if we haven’t done the prep work (or are genetically gifted) for the oncoming cold weather. Here is how to get prepared…

1. Start by changing your cleanser. If you are using a gel or foaming cleanser it will likely be too strong for the drier winter months. Use a cream cleanser such as La Mav Hydra Calm Cream Cleanser. For very dry, sensitive skin use Haven Scent Coconut Cream Cleanser or oil cleansing with Jojoba oil.

2. Scrub away dead skin cells. This allows the nutrients in your moisturiser or serum to penetrate more deeply as they don’t have to work through layers of dead skin cells. It also prevents your skin becoming clogged due to the richer ingredients used during the cooler months. Your skin will feel smoother and refreshed.

3. Use a Night Serum. Oils are so important for skin nutrition. They penetrate the skin more deeply carrying antioxidants and vitamins with them. Ensuring the cellular membrane of the skin cells is healthy allows nutrients and moisture to be retained within the cell and toxins to be effectively eliminated. Just what we want.

4. Keep your lips moist. Dry, chapped lips are a pain in winter. The wind and cold make it difficult for the thin skin of the lips to retain moisture. Give them a hand by applying lip balm regularly. Those containing beeswax will have greater moisture holding capacity that those based on oils alone.

5. Fake your colour. If having a tan makes you feel good then achieve one…the fake way. Sunless tanners used during Winter will help you hold on to the Summer glow a little longer.

This issue really makes me cross! Lead in lipsticks was highlighted as a significant issue in 2009. Surprisingly a recent review found that lead levels in lipstick hasn’t decreased, rather it has more than doubled from 2009 to 2011. Concerns about the impact of this toxic metal have arisen…again! The FDA states that “although we do not believe that the lead content found in our recent lipstick analyses poses a safety concern, we are evaluating whether there may be a need to recommend an upper limit for lead in lipstick in order to further protect the health and welfare of consumers.”

The issue with lead however is not that exposure to small amounts will cause an immediate issue, but rather that lead builds up in our body tissues over time. It is the the accumulated level of lead may be detrimental to our health and to the health of children or in the case of pregnant women, unborn babies.

While lipsticks may only contain small amounts of lead, in my opinion ANY lead in cosmetics is too much. So I have decided to Name & Shame the cosmetic companies that contain lead in their lipsticks. The FDA found the highest levels in lipsticks made by Procter & Gamble (Cover Girl brand), L’Oreal (L’Oreal and Maybelline brands), and Revlon. The lipsticks containing the most lead (measured in parts per million) are:

1. Maybelline Color Sensational, Pink Petal (7.9 ppm)

2. L’Oreal Colour Riche, Volcanic, (7.0 ppm)

3. NARS Semi-Matte, Red Lizard (4.93 ppm)

4. Cover Girl Queen Collection, Ruby Remix, (4.92 ppm)

5. Nars Semi-Matte, Funny Face (4.89 ppm)

6. L’Oreal Colour Riche, Tickled Pink (4.45 ppm)

7. L’Oreal Intensely Moisturizing Lipcolor, Heroic (4.41 ppm)

8. Cover Girl Continuous Color, Warm Brick (4.28 ppm)

9. Maybelline Color Sensational, Mauve Me (4.23 ppm)

10. Stargazer Lipstick, #103 (4.12 ppm)

Time for change and lead-free lipstick.

Great new for lovers of all things natural and particularly those with acne – it would seem that benzoyl peroxide has been bested by a natural substance, Thyme. A recent study study by researchers at Leeds Metropolitan University tested three tinctures, thyme, marigold, and myrrh against the bacteria that causes acne. All were effective to some degree but interestingly the study found that thyme was more powerful against the acne-causing bacteria than benzoyl peroxide.

The researcher, Dr Gomez-Escalada had this to say “The problem with treatments containing benzoyl peroxide is the side-effects they are associated with. A burning sensation and skin irritation are not uncommon. Herbal preparations are less harsh on the skin due to their anti-inflammatory properties while our results suggest they can be just as, if not more, effective than chemical treatments.”

Well that is definitely good news! I would love to hear your stories. What have you tried on acne that has or hasn’t worked. And have you tried benzoyl peroxide? Another secret skin saver is dilute Tea Tree oil.

In the second part to this series I discuss how daily moisturisers help to keep the skin hydrated and what key ingredients to look for if your products.

View Mukti Nourishing Facial Creme
View TSB Rosewood Moisture Lotion
View Organic Skin Co. Rosehip & Orange

Over this last winter my skin was a bit more dry than usual (hello stress!) and I was fishing about for something to help. I moved to a cream cleanser which was good but then ran out. So one night I grabbed a bottle of jojoba oil, massaged about 8-10 drops over my face and eye area and then gently wiped with a warm cloth. I was pleased at the time because it took off all of the mascara I had applied that day in one go (usually I have to give my eyes an extra wipe to avoid panda bear eyes). Over the next few nights I continue this routine and found that my skin hydration improved significantly. Fast forward 2 months and I am still using this cleansing technique and love it. Apart from increased hydration I have also found that the congestion I usually experience on my nose and chin has also improved – so happy about that!

While it feels counter-intuitive to cleanse with oil there is actually some reasoning to this method. Essentially, oil attracts and pulls fat soluble particles (those that mix with fat rather than water) including pollution, makeup and waste products from the skin. Eventually this has an effect on skin congestion including blackheads and whiteheads, as the oil mixes with sebum and follows its pathways down to skin cell and skin matrix levels destroying bacteria.

For acne and oily skin, this method can be used but it is important that the oil used is chosen carefully. Castor and Jojoba oils are ideal as they mix with sebum well and therefore help clear bacteria. However, molecularly heavy oils such as Coconut and Castor oil need to be diluted by mixing them with lighter oils such as grapeseed, jojoba or even Olive oil. So a blend of oils is generally a good idea. A 50-50 mix of Oilve and Castor or Jojoba and Castor is good for acne prone skin.

For dry or dehydrated skin, oil cleansing avoids the traditional use of foaming cleansers which can have too strong an effect on the skin’s protective barrier. The oil creates a moisturising barrier across the skin that allows the skin to function normally but holds moisture in. It also supports the acid mantle of the skin thereby eventually helping to balance oil production. This may also be a suitable method for sensitive skin, as there are no essential oils or artificial scents which are the most common irritating agents. For me, I just used pure Jojoba oil and didn’t worry about blending oils. However, if my skin were more congested, I would consider mixing Castor and Jojoba oil together.

The Oil Cleansing Method

• Massage 8-10 drops of your oil mixture over your face and neck
• You don’t need to pre-clean off makeup
• Massage the oil gently into your face and neck for 30 seconds to a minute
• Soak a soft washcloth or microfibre flannel and in warm water. Gently wipe away all visible oil. Using a flannel will also help to remove dead skin cells on the surface of your skin.
• If your skin is oilier and want to open up your pores, use hot water and gently apply the cloth over your face. Leave it until it starts to cool then wipe away all visible oil. I advise against using a hot washcloth if you have dry or sensitive skin or rosacea as it may irritate the skin and increase moisture loss.
• Rinse the cloth and repeat.
• I always apply a serum after washing my face and using this method is no exception. However I did find I need to use less serum. If you have oily or acne prone skin you may choose not to apply anything at all.

If you have used the oil cleansing method, I would love to hear what your experience was. Good, bad…indifferent?

Recently I was working with a customer that e-mailed me about having a dry itchy scalp (for the purposes of this blog I will call her Claire). There was also redness and irritation. For her this was a recent phenomenon and she felt quite embarrassed by the dry skin flakes on her scalp and the need to scratch her head constantly. After a bit of back and forward via e-mail we established a few things:

• Claire used a commercial shampoo and conditioner. Most commercial shampoos use Sodium Laurel Sulphate which can cause to a dry scalp and can certainly exacerbate an existing scalp issue.
• Claire used commercial styling products which may have caused scalp irritation
• Claire’s diet was generally good with plenty of good oils and water (for skin & scalp hydration) but she consumed a bit too much sugar which may have increasde the chance of candida (yeast infection). Claire also has some other signs that Candida may be an underlying issue for her which may be an underlying factor in the development of her scalp condition.
• The scalp flakiness emerged as an issue in winter and Claire had been having a lot more long hot showers to keep warm

My love affair with topical oils for skin and indeed, hair continues with the recent discovery of Tamanu oil. Once again the Remedica brand that brought this amazing oil to my attention. Used in Sensitive Visage and now also available as 100% oil, Tamanu has extraordinarily high levels of essential fatty acids which means it is a powerful skin anti-inflammatory and the potential for a strong healing effect on damaged skin.

The oil is derived from the nut of the Calophyllum inophyllum, a large evergreen tree native to East Africa, coastal India, the South Pacific and even Australia. The oil is green coloured with a “moss” type odour. The green colour is due to the high level of antioxidant phytochemicals in the oil. The nutritional profile of the oil shows up to 38% omega 6 essential fatty acids (EFAs), 0.5% omega 3 EFAs and phytochemicals with healing, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and even anti-viral activity.

As part of my research about Tamanu oil I did a search on You Tube and came up with some interesting videos. There is an amazing progressive healing pictorials using Tamanu oil on a severe scald – it did make me cringe to look at the open burn but the outcome was amazing. If you have the stomach for it, click here. Please note, seek medical advice before applying anything to an open burn as the exposed flesh is so susceptible to infection.

It is not only new burns that benefit from Tamanu oil. A 9 week study looking at the effect of Tamanu oil on significant old scars (over one year or more) showed a reduction in both scar length and width. Twice daily application for a 6 week period was enough to show obvious improvement. I find this quite exciting as old scars are generally really quite hard to minimize and so this effect is quite significant.
Other research has shown the following benefits:

• a soothing effect on damaged skin including sunburn, skin redness, bites and inflammation
• a regenerating effect on skin cells which promotes skin healing (wounds, burns, cracks, scars)
• an anti-bacterial effect which may assist with skin bacterial overgrowth in acne
• antioxidant which has a protective effect against DNA damage and free radical stress resulting from sun exposure
• moisturising and nourishing effects on the skin which can assist with dry, damaged skin – this has a normalizing effect on the protective acid mantle
• an increase in microcirculation which may assist with bruising

I know that we use Sensitive Visage to great effect on those with sensitive, dry and damaged skin but I would love to read comments from any reader that has used Tamanu oil for other skin issues.

Research reference: Dweck, A.C.: Calophyllum inophyllum – Tamanu oil the African, Asian, Polynesian and Pacific Panacea. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 24, 6, 1-8 (2002).

As you may have read in a previous blog I have had an ambivalent relationship with coconut oil – that was until I found Coconut Magic. However, despite liking the taste (or lack thereof) of Coconut Magic Oil, I still hadn’t really found the motivation to take it regularly…until now. I went to the Coconut Magic site and was doing a bit of reading and came across a video blog that Jenni from Coconut Magic did about the benefits of coconut oil which includes teeth whitening. Now this peaked my interest. I may just have to take up the challenge…and I would love to hear of any experiences of teeth whitening or oil pulling (see video for more info on this) – please comment if you have given either of these a go using coconut oil.

Watch Jenni’s video blog below:

Following on from my last update, I had the two BCCs removed from my face about a month ago. I decided to get them cut out rather than use Black Salve (otherwise known as Cansema). I would probably have tried the Cansema had the BCCs been on my body but I felt a bit precious about risking this on my face as this product does have a risk of keloid and non-surgical scarring. So to surgery I went. I must say the whole process was simple but unsettling. I felt very relieved the cancers were cut out but at the same time wondered why they formed in the first place particularly as I have spent my life being careful to minimise sun exposure. Even more unnerving was the thought that more may develop.

Well its now a month later and the scars have healed up. I am applying all the good things including TSB Skin Smoother at night and Minerelle Vitamin C in jojoba oil (this product is in testing at this stage but due online very soon). I really think it has made a significant difference but due to the face the scars are on my face, I was not prepared to leave one without treatment as a placebo. No, I am far to vain for that level of dedication! Now that they have healed I have stopped worrying about more developing – I do all that I can to prevent them – wear natural sunscreen (Devita Solar Body Block when out in the full sun and Devita Solar Protective Moisturiser during the day), wear a hat, eat good food (most of the time) and generally look after myself but if anyone has any other ideas I would love to hear them. PS I am also using my phone as a hands free just in case it had anything to do with the development of the BCCs.

The photos below show the healing process to date.

Day 1

After 1 week - stitches removed

After 2 weeks

After 3.5 weeks

Related Articles

• Skin “hot spots” – skin carcinoma, dermatitis or what?

Dry, easily broken nails can be a problem at any time of year but like our skin it tends to be worse in winter when there is less humidity. Due to their porous nature, nails lose moisture very easily and easily become brittle and dry. Preventing moisture loss is essential. Nails will also be slower growing during winter (on average nails grow about 1mm per week). Apart from the weather and humidity there are a number of other factors that affect nail health:

• Nail polish remover is a really common cause of dry nails. Acetone removers are the worst (apart from other potential toxicity issues). To overcome this effect use an acetone-free remover and massage nail cream or cuticle oil directly onto the nail following use. The cream forms a protective layer over the nail bed helping to retain moisture.
• Nutrient levels will impact on your nail health. Among the first signs of low levels of certain nutrients are changes in our skin, hair and nails. Changes in nails can be seen as an early warning system that we may need a nutrient top-up. Calcium, iron, good fats, silica, vitamin A and B12 and protein if missing from our diet or not being processed efficiently by our bodies can all show up in our nails. Individual signs include:
  • Pale, spoon shaped nails can indicate low levels of iron.
  • Weak, brittle nails with slow growth may indicate low calcium or protein
  • Fragile nails with vertical or horizontal ridges may be a sign of low B vitamins
  • Splitting nails could indicate low Hydrochloride levels, which often correspond with poor digestive function.
• Remember that nails signs are only one indication of nutritional status and generally 3 or more signs are needed to give a strong indication. A general skin, hair and nails supplement may help to increase nutrition to the nail bed and eventually strengthen nails.
• Periods of ill health or stress may also impact on nail strength
• Swimming – chlorine can dry nails out so if you swim regularly carry a hand & nail cream in your swim bag and apply after your session.
• Use a soft nail file. Metal files can pull the nail bed and increase the risk of ripping or tearing nails.

A really good way of maintaining nail health is to protect them from damage in the first place by using gloves to wash up or garden. Then regularly apply hand & nail cream, taking the time to massage the cream into your nail bed.

I would love to hear any nail tips you might have.

Related Articles:

• Improve Dry, Brittle Nails