vitaleblog.org

Thanks for coming back to our blog. Hope you are enjoying the free content that we are offering. We love feedback so please leave your comments and tell us what you would like to hear about. Subscribe to the "Naturally clear and glowing skin in 5 days FREE e-course".

Every day we are exposed to air pollution, sunlight, smoke and more all which give rise to the production of “free radicals”.  Damage to our DNA, protein (collagen & elastin) and protein remodeling (skin healing) are all side effects of the production of free radicals. Internally the metabolism, the effects of stress and emotions and the result of everyday body process that utilize oxygen all create free radicals. Externally ultraviolet light from the sun and environmental stressors such as smoking, pollution, poor dietary habits and chemical exposure also contribute. The production of free radicals and the damage they cause is one of the key mechanisms of aging.  As one ages, the skin’s structural foundation weakens. Specifically, collagen which keeps the skin firm and elastin which maintains elasticity and helps prevent the skin from sagging. Free radicals attack your skin’s collagen and elastin layers, accelerating the creation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Skin-aging caused by free radicals occurs over time however, the damaging effect of free radicals is exacerbated in the presence of an antioxidant

deficiency which can accelerate this process considerably. Consider for example the skin of a smoker aged 40 years compared to a non-smoker. In this case, the antioxidant defenses of the skin are far outweighed by the production of free radicals as a byproduct of the daily cigarette habit. Much research has been done with regard to the benefits of antioxidants to combat the production of free radicals. Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals that harm the cells, causing damage and premature aging. Specifically antioxidants help to maintain the health of the skin cells such as collagen and elastin which keeps skin supple.

There are two ways to slow the effects of free radical damage on the skin:

Reduce the production of free radicals. You can’t really do much

about reducing free radical product that is the byproduct of everyday bodily processes however you can reduce your exposure to the environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution, chemicals and poor dietary habits. So the key advice such as minimizing exposure to midday sun and giving up smoking apply here.

Improve your antioxidant status. The neutralizing effects of antioxidants don’t prevent the effects of free radical damage however ensuring that your antioxidant status is optimal will certainly slow skin aging. Antioxidants can be increased internally and topically by:

1. Eating plenty of antioxidant rich foods – colourful fruit, vegetables and wholegrains are excellent sources of antioxidants. Key antioxidant rich foods for the skin include mangosteen, turmeric, green tea and berries of any kind.
2. 

   Antioxidant Supplements can help top up your levels

   Antioxidant Supplementation – specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids (green tea and grapeseed), exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin and help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health.

3. Topical antioxidants – provide some protection against environmental damage to the skin and may help slow down skin aging. However, the effectiveness of topical antioxidants depends on a number of factors including skin permeability, the concentration of the antioxidant and the other ingredients in the cream and whether they are water or fat soluble among other things. Also keep in mind that just because an ingredient is an antioxidant, doesn’t mean that it will be effective for slowing skin aging and indeed that different antioxidants have different effects on the skin. Some of the more effective topical antioxidants that have been researched thus far include:

• Vitamin C – supports and stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces free radical damage
• Vitamin E – assists with skin healing, protects cellular membranes which helps maintain the health of the skin cell
• Green tea – reduces erythema and the effects of ultraviolet radiation, anti-inflammatory effects.
• Betacarotene & Carotenes – helps minimise sun damage
• Vitamin A (as retinoic acid) – increase synthesis of collagen, reducing fine wrinkles, improve skin texture and increase skin thickness
• Coenzyme Q10 – improving the cells ability to produce new collagen. It also increases the ability of the cell to minimise damage from free radical production.
• Lipoic acid – inhibit cross-linking which contributes to the ageing process

Whether in our diet, as supplements or topically applied, antioxidant play an important role in slowing down the aging process. Of course to get the best effect it is important to consider all three delivery methods. In addition, minimising your exposure to the environmental factors that cause free radical production, will significantly add to slowing the aging process, not just of your skin, but of your whole body.

The pleasure of a morning cuppa had been increased by the emergence of the many health benefits from tea of all kinds – black, green and oolong (white). Heart disease, gum disease, cancer and even weight loss. In addition to these health benefits tea has emerged as a significant therapeutic ingredient active against skin damage.

The many medicinal properties of tea are attributed to phytochemicals called polyphenols of which catechins are the

principle subtype. White and green tea has the highest concentrations of catechins with up to 25% being standard. While black tea contains 4% on average. There are many types of catechins but those that have been studied most extensively in relation to skin phyto-ageing are epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG).

Research assessing the benefits of green tea for skin has shown that topical application can reduce sun damage. Green tea does not have a UV ray blocking effect like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide however there is a synergistic effect when combined with either of these ingredients. The benefit is achieved by blocking free radicals and reducing inflammation and apart from reducing sun damage it may also help slow the skin aging associated with sun damage.

The findings above applied equally to white tea in clinical trials. Interestingly, while black tea contains less than a quarter of the EGCG of green or white tea, it also has a protective effect against sun damage and reduces erythema (reddening of the skin). Based on these findings it is worthwhile considering a sunscreen that contains green, white or black tea extract.

Green tea in particular has been showed benefits for papulopustular rosacea. The particular study used a lotion containing a

tea extract which produced a 70% improvement in rosacea when compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone. The most significant finding was a reduction in inflammatory lesions when compared to placebo.

While not focused on topical application an interesting result using oolong tea was achieved in patients with chronic atopic dermatitis. Patients in the trial maintained their standard dermacological treatment and at the same time drank 3 cups of oolong tea per day that had been steeped for 5 minutes. After only one month of treatment, which is a relatively short period of time, 63% of patient showed marked to moderate improvement and the response was still evident 6 months after the trial in 54% of patients. The authors of the trial suggest the antiallergic properties of the tea polyphenols are responsible for the result.

One study that looked at the role green tea may play in slowing photoaging gave participants a 10% green tea cream and 300mg supplement twice daily or placebo over an 8 week period. However, while there was a significant improvement in elastic tissue there were no obvious visible signs of skin improvement. Given the trial was only 8 weeks, longer supplementation may be required for clinical results to become obvious.

Another quite specific use for green tea is to reduce the skin damage from of radiotherapy. Skin toxicity is a common side effect of radiotherapy for solid tumors. In one study a green tea extract made by steeping a green tea bag in water was applied to damaged skin. It showed that green tea supported the restitution of skin integrity by inhibiting inflammation and mediating local immune responses. In addition the higher catechin content of green tea may be responsible for the considerable antibacterial effect often seen in super-infected skin lesions common to hospitalised patients. This study shows potential for green tea to have greater benefit than just reducing inflammation, in particular an antibacterial effect which significantly widens the scope of use in skin conditions such as acne and skin infections.

The benefits for green tea are numerous and particularly effective in the area of sun protection and phytodamage. The issue with the use of creams that there is generally no indication of the percentage of extract in the cream and it could be anything from waving a tea bag over the top to significant levels up around 10%. In addition, the quality of extract may not be known or not specific for skin application. For example, the green tea extracts that are beneficial contain more caffeine (although

this isn’t the only active required) where as EGCG or catechins are required (as far as we know from clinical trials) to help slow sun damage.

Tea Tips

• Look for sunscreens that contain green, white or black tea for the additional phytoprotective effect
• Make your own tea treatment at home by brewing quality organic green or oolong tea and freezing into icecubes or put into a spritz bottle and refrigerate. Alternatively use our Remedica Hydra Mist with a base of green tea.
• Use the left over tea bags as soothing patches for eyes
• Make up your own green tea cream by adding the chosen extract to a base cream. Base it on the extract making up 10% of the final mix. Use an extract standardized to EGCG.
• During Summer, make up a pot of green tea, add some ice cubes and honey to taste. Refrigerate and drink throught the day.

This is a special bulletin because I’ve just partnered up with an associate of mine and her team at Outrageously Healthy. Their mission is to help as many people on the planet as possible, live their best life. One way they do this is by finding the most outrageously healthy experts to interview and bring those live interviews to people like you at no cost!

And guess what? I am this week’s Expert! I will be interviewed by Lenore and you can listen in live either by phone or webcast this Friday 23rd of October at 9am (Brisbane time). To gain access to this call and to all future expert calls just go to http://www.outrageouslyhealthy.com/rep/anandamahony.html and sign up for their Free Ruby Membership when you do you will also receive a gift from Lenore and the Team the MP3 ‘Feeling Great for No Good Reason’. The call details will be emailed to and a reminder sent a few hours before the call.

So come join us and learn about my favourite Outrageously Healthy topic this week, I can’t wait to hear you on the call.

Have an outrageously happy healthy week till then,

Ananda Mahony
(here is me looking excited about the interview!)

http://www.outrageouslyhealthy.com/rep/anandamahony.html

In the last 2 week I have had numerous queries about the use of nanoparticles in sunscreens. Nanoparticle is a general term that is used to describe substances and process that are smaller than 100 nanometers (nm). The nanoparticles used in sunscreens are from 20 to 30 nm making the zinc oxide or titanium dioxide invisible to the naked eye. Unlike traditional zinc oxide products which can leave an opaque white coat on the surface of the skin, nanoparticles rub in clear.

The issue with the use of nanoparticles in sunscreens is that when exposed to

UV light (sunlight) the ingredients produce dangerous free radicals, cause DNA damage and cell toxicity. In addition, research suggests that the penetration of nanoparticles is greater when skin is damaged or thinner eg. eczema, acne, sunburnt skin, babies and the elderly. While is no clear outcome as to what this means for human skin however, the likely outcome is ongoing damage.

Research is ongoing, however the above information does suggest we should treat nano-sunscreens with extreme caution until we know they’re safe. At this stage no labeling is required for nanoparticles in cosmetics. To set your mind at rest, our Third Stone Botanicals and Devita products with sun protection use micro particles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Micro particles are considered safe as they do not penetrate the skin surface.

See the video blog below for more information about the difference between nano and micro particles and how to avoid nanoparticles in your cosmetics.

For more information and a full report go to Friends of the Earth.

I love paw paw ointment but haven’t used it for years. The brand I used to use I found out contained petrochemicals as a base so I stopped using it all together. Recently however a couple of natural brands have popped up and I have been trialling them to see how they compare to the original. Of those natural brands I have done a comparison below and interestingly while I love the Pure Nutraceuticals product which we stock, the Suvana Paw Paw Ointment is really good too. For this reason, you will see it in-store soon! (Ed note: I is now in-store and on-line)

Brand	Natural/Organic	Ingredients	Product Experience/Rating	Price
Lucas Paw Paw Ointment	High concetration of paw paw ointment. A TGA listed product which means the base ingredients aren’t listed on the label	Contains natural paw paw extract in a petroleum jelly base (a petrochemical)	The original product, which is great to use but I don’t like the petrochemical base. 3 stars for high paw paw concentration but loses out because of the base ingredients	$5.95
Pure Nutraceuticals Paw Paw Ointment	Natural with food grade preservative. Contains calendula which is healing and nourishing to the skin.	Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Beeswax, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Paw Paw Ferment, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Coconut Flavour, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Benzyl Alcohol	Great taste & feel. Contains coconut flavour, which is too strong for many. 4 stars – coconut flavour & preservative stop it from being 5 stars	$6.95
Suvana Paw Paw Ointment	Natural with some organic ingredients	Castor seed oil*, beeswax*, coconut oil*, cocoa butter*, papaya extract, honey*, jojoba oil*, vanilla bean oil*, candilia wax, carrot seed oil, stevia extract, vitamin e. * organic ingredients	No added flavour. Tastes like honey. Lovely to use. 4.5 stars. Higher price brings down from 5.	$8.95
Simmons Paw Paw Salve	Natural. Made with 51mg/gram of fresh paw paw. More papaw per volume than other leading brands.	Fermented fresh paw paw fruit, Rhus succedanea wax, glycerine, canola oil, hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax, corn starch.	Tastes bitter so not pleasant to use. 3.5 stars. Ingredients good but tastes awful.	$5.95

My video blog about Pure Nutraceuticals Paw Paw Ointment

I have always been curious about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). While there was lots of good research around about their benefits there was also some about their potential side effects. So it has been an ingredient I have treated with caution and before I researched the ingredient, some suspicion. I think I am a bit of a cynic – I have to know about an ingredient before I am ready to embrace it. I also don’t like to leave stones unturned so when I realised the potential benefits of AHAs, I decided to give them a try. Who better to try it out on than myself? So this is part one of a blog about “My AHA Experiment”. The next installment will come at the end of 6 months.

AHAs (I use this term to cover BHAs or beta hydroxy acids as well) have a two fold effect. The first thing they do is reduce congestion – woopee, I need some of that! You can see the effects of this action relatively quickly (i.e. 10 days to 3 weeks). The second is to reduce sun damage and improve skin texture. According to clinical skin trials, this takes up to 6 months. I have been using the Devita AHA product for about 5 weeks now and I review the product as well as talk about the benefits and potential issues with the use of AHAs. So installment one of “My AHA Experiment” is below. I will get back to you with an update…in about 5 months time!

“My AHA Experiment”

Click here to view Devita AHAs

Related Articles:
Topical Slow Aging Ingredients

Following on from previous blog about slow aging ingredients, I thought I would discuss in greater depth the benefits of topical vitamin C serum. Vitamin C serum is one of my favorite slow aging ingredients for a number of reasons: the research is there to back up the proported benefits, it is a natural ingredient and I have seen it work on my own skin. Specifically I noticed decreased flushing indicating it had worked to strengthen the capillaries in my skin and improved skin tone. I was really pleased with the outcome as I tend to flush easily and get blotchy skin (when I have wine or hot showers, eat spicy or fatty foods, eat too much sugar, sit in air-conditioning or heating, when I get too much sun and oh so many other things…). In the video I discuss how vitamin C works to achieve this result.

Related Articles:
Topical Ingredients for Slow Aging

This blog is a bit of a MYTH BUSTER. The myth I am looking at is avoiding oil based serums when you have oily or acne prone skin. In some cases it is appropriate and certainly the heavier oils such as avocado or olive oil would make skin worse but some oils acutally help rather than hinder oily skin.

One of our serum products, Clair Visage is one of the most popular products we have for acne prone and oily skin. Liz, our senior beauty therapist uses this product for the treatment of acne and gets great results. Because of the fine, light molecular weight of this formula, and strategic compounding of the selected essential oils Clair Visage helps to soften, replenish and protect the acid mantle of inflamed and stressed skin, without over nourishing or causing congestion that heavier creams (including water based) creams may contribute to.

Clair Visage is not so much a moisturiser as a balancing nutritive for skin with irregular oil flow. It works by regulaing sebaceous glands and is designed to maintain skin lubricity and elasticity while controlling the amount of natural oil flow to what would be considered regular or healthy for skin.

The video blog outlines how oils can actually help oily skin rather than make it worse.

Every season new anti-aging products are launched and promoted as the new generation of slow aging. The question is “how do we know it works”? The gold standard of proof is a human clinical trial showing evidence of skin improvement however most topical ingredients have very limited research to back them up. This article looks at 4 ingredients that are commonly used in “anti-aging” products, the research that supports them and how to use them to greatest effect.

Vitamin C – Vitamin C has numerous slow aging

benefits: it works within the skin to promote collagen production by stimulating the genes that make collagen and stopping the enzyme that degrades it, it is an antioxidant and so reduces free-radical production in the skin, it also provides photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, works to lighten hyperpigmentation and may also assist with the reduction of inflammation in inflammatory skin disorders.

Some great benefits however vitamin C is highly unstable in its natural form ascorbic acid and so it is advisable to only use stabilised forms such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate. Even so, vitamin C in these forms must be kept away from direct sunlight and used once opened otherwise they are prone to oxidation and stop being effective.

In addition, vitamin C absorbs into the skin very slowly and so higher concentrations are required for the above benefits. Look for products that contain 10-20% vitamin C as any less will not be effective. They also need to be acidic in form which is one of the factors that promotes an added exfoliation effect. Buffered vitamin C forms are less effective so make sur that your product has a pH of less than 3.8. If the pH and vitamin C concentration are not supplied with the product, ask your supplier before purchase to ensure you get the desired effects.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHAs/PHAs will help slow aging by revitalising the topmost layer of skin. This effect is achieved by AHAs clearing dead skin cells, thinning the strata corneum thereby exposing newer skin cells, improving the quality of elastic fibres, increasing the density of collagen and stimulating the production of collagen. The net result is an anti-wrinkle effect and a reduction in signs of photoaging.

Most over the counter AHA products contain concentrations of 8-15% which promote visible results over time. However, concentrations lower than 8% do not show significant benefit and products such as cleansers and everyday moisturisers that list AHAs are unlikely to contain enough to make a significant difference.

The anti-wrinkle effect of AHAs is achieved by removing the top layer of dead skin cells (stratum corneum) however it also removes valuable antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and E and may also increases sun sensitivity. These side effects need to be countered by using sunscreen during the day and applying an antioxidant rich moisturiser following use of AHAs.

Due to their acidic nature AHA’s produce a tingling sensation on the skin. This effect is a sign that the product is working to exfoliate the top layers of skin. The exfoliation is gradual and results can be expected after 3 months of use. However, ongoing use of AHAs may have a mild dehydrating effect on the skin due to the potential for water loss as the strata corneum is thinned. To counter this effect, use AHAs for 2-3 months then take a break of 2-3 months.

Copper Peptides – Copper peptides emerged as a skin treatment product in the 70s when it was found to significantly stimulate skin wound healing. This end is achieved by promoting normal collagen growth rather than the abnormal collagen growth found in scar tissue. While these results were achieved with wound healing more recent use has shown that copper peptides may also have a collagen regenerating effect on normal skin. In particular, they can help repair skin after exfoliation (seen as controlled skin damage), minimise the daily assaults from sun damage and pollution and reduce skin inflammation which is significantly associated with hastening the aging process.

While copper peptides have a good safety and efficacy profile, there are some notes of caution related to using copper peptides. Again, with copper peptides, as with AHA’s more is not always better. Taking a break after 2-3 months is advisable as too much copper can have an irritating and pro-oxidant effect. In addition copper peptides are made less effective in an acidic environment so it is best to use them away from AHAs, vitamin C and retanoids.

Plant antioxidants – The most common significant finding for antioxidants of plant origin such as the catechins present in green tea, curcumin from the curry spice turmeric and apigenin present in many fruits and vegetables, is

that they reduce the effects of UV damage in the skin.

For example studies using 10% green tea extract have shown that it works to minimise sun damage by reducing the production of free radicals and inflammation that result from exposure to UV rays. Apart from free radical damage, inflammation is a potential driver of premature skin ageing. Green tea would therefore be a useful addition to a sunscreen or daily moisturiser as it will provide an additional protective effective aside from the SPF factor. Please keep in mind, green tea is in no way a substitute for SPF rather it works by supporting the skins resistance to sun damage.

The unknown factor associated with the use of polyphenols and many other new topical ingredients is that unless a human clinical trial has been conducted, the concentration of the active ingredient required in the cream is unknown. Adding minute amounts of an extract to make a label claim may be beneficial from a marketing perspective but it doesn’t promote skin rejuvenation or slow skin aging.

When choosing a slow aging product for your skin, ensure that you choose those with a high enough concentration of the active ingredient where it is known and otherwise, that it is in at least the top 2/3 of the ingredient listing. Ingredients in the last 1/3 of the label listing are included in very small quantities. Alternatively, if an ingredient is touted as the active in a product then the concentration may be listed on the label. If in doubt, ask the retailer or manufacturer for this information.

Related Articles

Aging – Does Diet Make a Difference

Anti Aging Skin Care – More than just Vitamin A

I love my Sunday skin care ritual. I cleanse and exfoliate my face then apply

a clay based mask. At the moment I am using Revitalising Face Mask which is full of nourishing ingredients. After applying the mask, I make a cup of herbal tea and sip it in the sunshine. Clay has some great benefits for the skin and this blog from Jasmin Skincare below helps us understand many of these.

1) Clay is drawing but not necessarily drying. It is true that clays have a drawing action drawing impurities and some moisture to the surface of the skin and holding those toxins in the clay so they can be washed off the skin however the fact that the right blend of the clays also puts essential minerals back into the skin means that a more balanced water retention of the skin’s epidermal layer can be maintained

2) Clay is exfoliating. There are many optimal combinations of clay that will assist with maintaining the keratinous layer of the skin which is the outer layer where dead skin cells rest until they are removed either by friction ( ie rubbing the face) or by mechanical exfoliators such as the grains in a scrub or by the natural abrasiveness and detoxifying action of mineral clays.

3) Clay is soothing. Once again those fabulous minerals in clay serve another purpose which is to soothe and rebalance the skin, which is why eczema, dermatitis and acne sufferers report great effects from using clays regularly.

4) Clay increases blood circulation. How many times have you put on a clay mask to find that your skin is flushed and rosy and tingling afterwards and thought maybe you were having some kind of reaction, only to find that by the time you washed and moisturised your skin it started to look less flushed and more healthy? Well the drawing action of the clay also draws more healthy blood to the surface of the skin and so it is quite normal to experience these effects. The great part about it is the various layers of the skin get flushed with fresh blood which is essential for healing all skin conditions and for having healthy young looking skin.

Clay is the most important component of our Revitalising Face Mask from Jasmin Skincare. Other key ingredients in this remarkable product are:

• Sandalwood Powder – ideal for dehydrated skin and helps relieve skin inflammation
• Organic Rosehip Powder - rich in natural Vitamin C, rosehip can help protect the skin from capillary damage and firms and tones skin tissues.
• Organic Coriander Powder – a traditional remedy for pimples, blackheads & dry skin
• Organic Alfalfa Powder – rich in nutrients to support skin health
• Seaweed Powder – source of skin nutrients. Supports skin detoxification and helps to reduce inflammation.

Tell me about your clay mask experiences. Do you use them? If so how have they helped your skin?