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Considered to be the benchmark in topical anti-wrinkle agents the much studied prescription medicine retinoic acid works by triggering the retinoid (vitamin A) receptors in skin cells. Once activated, these receptors affect many cellular processes including the renewal of epidermal cells, prevention of oxidative stress (associated with skin cell damage and ageing), control of surface skin bacteria by reducing sebum production and improvement in skin ageing and sun damage.

Unfortunately retinoic acid comes with significant skin tolerance issues including increased sun sensitivity, redness and irritation, all of which affect compliance. For many years vitamin A precursors have been considered less effective than retinoic acid as they first have to be converted to the active form via specialised enzymes in skin cells as below (http://www.smartskincare.com):

Retinyl palmitate <=> Retinol <=> Retinaldehyde => Retinoic acid

However, recent research supports the use of cosmetic retinal esters as significant anti-wrinkle agents comparable to retinoic acid (Retin-A or Trentinoin). The two important findings of the study (Fu et al. 2010) are that retinyl esters at 0.3% lead to significant improvement in wrinkles and that this effect is achieved without the irritation commonly experienced with prescribed retinoids. Specifically the use of retinyl esters was associated with improved wrinkle appearance after 8 weeks with continued improvement through to the end of the 24-week trial.

This is great news as it supports the use of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic formulations, more than just the label claim. Mismo ACE Vitamin Serum is my pick of natural retinyl palmitate formulations as it also contains the other significant anti-ageing vitamin, C. I have discussed the many benefits of vitamin C before (read more here) but the key difference is the type of vitamin C used in this formulation. Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant and for this reason it has been traditionally formulated in water based ingredients such as Aloe Vera. However, the skin prefers fat-soluble ingredients so the aim has been to ensure the skin effectively absorbs the vitamin C used. Recent innovation has lead to the development of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, a vitamin C that has improved absorption, better stability and can be formulated in an oil base. The other unique quality of this vitamin C is that it doesn’t prickle the skin upon application, which means it is suitable for use on delicate areas of the skin such as around the eyes and as well as for those with sensitive skin.

Mismo ACE Vitamin Serum contains both retinyl palmitate and ascorbyl teraisopalmiate with some vitamin E in a triglyceride and jojoba oil base. This allows for effective transportation of the ingredients into the skin. Skin improvement with this product can be seen within 1-4 weeks with significant improvements within 12 weeks. Look at the difference below:

This blog is actually Jenni from Coconut Magic’s work. I just love coconut oil and use it for many things. In one of my recent posts I mention that a teaspoon in porridge in the morning adds to the creamy deliciousness of this dish. In any case, here are Jenni’s 6 clever ways to use Coconut Oil:

In the second part to this series I discuss how daily moisturisers help to keep the skin hydrated and what key ingredients to look for if your products.

View Mukti Nourishing Facial Creme
View TSB Rosewood Moisture Lotion
View Organic Skin Co. Rosehip & Orange

Due to the recent rains in Brisbane, mosquitoes have plagued me, which has been a very itchy affair. However, after two nights of being bitten, I delved into the medicine cabinet and grabbed a bottle of 100% pure essential lavender oil. Not only does this fabulous essential oil stop any itching from bites almost immediately, it also keeps flying pests at bay. Eat dirt mozzies!

This episode reminded me how many simple but highly effective natural first aid remedies we have at our fingertips. Below I have listed what I consider “essentials” for any natural first aid kit.

1. Honey

Jellybush Honey

Honey is a great soothing and antimicrobial agent. In the cooler months, it is an excellent treatment for windburn or chapped skin. Applied topically to wounds or acne lesions it inhibits the growth of bacteria and provides a moist wound-healing environment, speeding up the healing process. It’s also great for burns and sore throats.

• To use for acne, use as a face wash. Spread it over the affected areas, and rinse off. Alternatively, apply a small amount to affected areas and leave overnight. Rinse in the morning.
• For sore throats, swallow a teaspoonful and let it slowly drip down your throat.
• For bandaged wounds, apply liberally prior to applying the bandage. The honey will also help prevent the bandage sticking to the wound site.

It is important to use Manuka, Jellybush or untreated wild honey as these varieties are not heat-treated and therefore retain their beneficial effects.

2. Chamomile tea

Naturally calming and good for relaxing at night sleep, Chamomile tea is also soothing for the skin and is also useful for sore, tired or puffy eyes. Chamomile has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial effects, which help soothe sore eyes. Soak the tea bag for 3 minutes in hot water. You can either drink the tea or once cool, soak a face cloth and use it to bathe your eyes or any part of the body that is red and/or irritated such as sunburn or rashes. Put the tea bags in the fridge and when you are ready, lie down and place one over each eye. Relax.

3. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Oil

Apart from its soothing and relaxing aromatherapy benefits, 100% pure lavender essential oil can be used as an effective first aid remedy. When applied to minor burns and bites or stings, the undiluted essential oil has an antiseptic and pain relieving effect. The sooner the oil is applied, the faster the pain relieving and healing effects of lavender will occur. Apply undiluted oil for burns or skin irritation or combine a few drops with a carrier oil such as jojoba for use as a relaxing massage oil.

As I mentioned above, it can help to repel mozzies but it is certainly a good idea to resort to a conventional insect repellent if you are in a malarial area.

Lavender oil is also purported to be effective for headache relief. Rub a few drops onto your temples, drink a large glass of water (dehydration is a common cause of headaches) and take a few, deep relaxing breaths. Just remember to choose a pure 100% essential oil as fragranced oils or cheap Lavender oil does not have the same healing qualities.

4. Aloe Vera Gel

Aloe is one of the best remedies for soothing irritated skin and healing burns including sunburn. Aloe contains constituents that have a demulcent (soothing) effect and so can be used on grazed, red or inflamed skin; as well as a vulnerary (wound-healing) effect. Aloe inhibits the formation of tissue-injuring compounds that gather at the site of a skin injury and so can be applied to the wound site to promote healing.

When applying fresh aloe from the leaves of the plant, use only the clear inner pulp of the leaf. This component has soothing and healing properties. The yellow/green sap that is exuded by leaf surface can be irritating to skin and so is best avoided. If you don’t have an aloe plant growing in your back yard, you can still harness the benefits of this plant by choosing products that are made with Aloe vera.

5. Spirit of Woman Crisis Calm

Crisis Calm

I carry a bottle of Crisis Calm in by handbag for any stressful or crisis situations. It is safe to use and excellent for children, animals and adults and a few drops under the tongue is easy to take. Crisis Calm helps connect to the sense of calm at the centre of any storm around you, whether a trauma, shock, emergency, or stress, emotional, psychological or physical. Sometime you just want to add it to the water supply!!!

6. Arnica (Arnica montana)

Arnica is a miracle plant from the Earth’s herbal pantry. When used externally, is has an amazing ability to clear bruises, bring down puffiness or swelling, and ease deep aches. It can’t be applied to open wounds but use liberally on any closed bruises, strains, sprains or inflammation.

7. Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia)

Tea tree oil is one of the most effective essential oils as a natural skin remedy. It is a powerful antimicrobial and antiseptic, active against infectious organisms such as bacteria and fungi. Tea tree oil is useful in the management of infection in minor wounds and even acne. In the case of mild infection, liberally apply 100% tea tree oil to the affected area. Further application of tea tree to any bandage may also be applied and then changed every 24 hours.

8. Jojoba Oil

This may seem a bit unusual but I include Organic Jojoba Oil for its versatility. It can be used as part of the treatment for acne, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, cradle cap, nappy rash and other skin conditions where skin is red, irritated, dry or sensitive. Apply jojoba to face, body, hands and feet to smooth skin and nails, reduce cracking of dry skin, and improve skin elasticity.

If you have any natural first aid tips I would love to hear about them. Please let us know.

The world is connected in ways that we never imagined even a decade ago and one of the most exciting aspects of this expansion is the discovery of new and exciting ingredients. Once considered exotic, ingredients from Morocco, Polynesia and Africa now feature in our everyday skin and hair care. This article takes a look at the benefits of some of the exotic oils now available to us, the benefits of which far surpass the traditional oils we have relied upon up until recently.

Argan oil – this oil is the darling of hair care. Produced from the kernels of the Argan tree fruit, which grows in Morocco, it is higher priced than many oils due to its limited availability.  Consisting of a blend of fatty acids, it is also rich in vitamin E, phenols (antioxidants) and carotenes, which give carrots their orange colour. Preliminary research is showing promise in the areas of sebum control and the management of psoriasis. However, the use it is currently most known for is hair care and indeed it works very effectively to reduce frizz and create a high shine on dry or dull hair. It can also help with oil control for both oily and overly dry hair.

Due to its high content of oleic acid, it tends to be a slightly heavier oil and so may not be ideal for skin that becomes congested easily or that is prone to acne. It is however, ideal for dry, dehydrated and mature skin types. View products that contain Argan Oil

Baobab oil – is extracted from the nuts of an indigenous African tree. Its primary benefit for skin is that it is fast absorbing, non-comedogenic and has great moisturising qualities. It can also help with dermal protection, skin regeneration and the improvement of elasticity. This oil is great as a serum base oil. View products that contain Baobab oil

Olive Squalene – is actually a fraction of Olive Oil and is similar in form and function to Jojoba oil. It helps to balance sebum production and restore the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the skin. Like Jojoba, it can be used for dry, dehydrated skins as well as oily skin types as it very light and doesn’t clog pores. Olive squalene is particularly useful for dry acne. View products that contain Olive Squalene

Tamanu Oil – Tamanu oil has powerful healing properties in its unique ability to promote the formation of new skin tissue. Traditionally used by the Polynesians as first aid for the skin and mucous membranes, the oil can assist with scars, burns, skin cracks, cuts, dry skin and wounds. Used cosmetically, Tamanu has healing, mild antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity. For these reasons it is used in both protective and regenerative products aimed at restoring skin appearance. View products that contain Tamanu oil

Marula Oil – sourced from the nuts of the Marula tree in Mozambique and South Africa this oil is fast absorbing, helps to reduce trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and supports tissue healing. Another interesting quality noted about Marula oil is its ability to reduce skin redness and vascular pigmentation commonly found with broken blood vessels. View products that contain Marula oil

Fortunately all of these oils are available either singularly or as base oils in serums and moisturizers so you can choose the unique qualities of one, or benefit from a combination.

I have to admit I am a bit lackadaisical when it comes to using a toner every day. If it is in front of me, I use one under my moisturizer but if it isn’t I don’t go searching. This is in contrast to Mary and Caitlyn, our Vitale beauty therapists – they both swear by toners and use them religiously. May I also add they both have gorgeous skin! So when the Dr recently told me to keep the scars on my face moist, I added in the use of a toner first under the healing oils to deliver extra moisture, with might I add, excellent results! Since then I have been using a toner daily.

There are three categories of toner so it is important to make the distinction between them: traditional toners, astringents and fresheners.

Traditional toners are used to restore moisture to the skin. They are ideal for those with normal to dry or dehydrated skin as they contain moisturizing ingredients, herbal extracts and essential oils. They do not contain alcohol, which can reduce moisture and oil content in the skin and potential cause irritation. Examples of traditional toners are:

Remedica Hydra Mist – this amazing looking and smelling product is an active hydrator, moisture retainer and lipid-acid mantle restorer. The effectiveness of this product is due to a complex synergism between antioxidants, essential oils, vitamins and of the natural water binder Lecithin (humectant) which attracts water molecules from the atmosphere and helps bind these molecules to the skin. These actions are exactly what are needed for dry, dehydrated or damaged skin.

La Mav Refining Toner – again excellent for normal to dry or dehydrated skin this toner contains loads of slow ageing ingredients which when used under the La Mav Wrinkle Smoother, layer nutrients and enhance their effects.

Astiringent Toners contain alcohol based (or ethanol) in some form, which has the effect of tightening pores and removing oil. The natural & organic skin care industry moved away from this type of toner a long time ago however, you can still get the pore tightening, cleansing and refreshing effect from other ingredients used in toners that are suitable for normal to oily skin. I will also add that I think toners are excellent and often overlooked for very oil and acne-prone skin. They can deliver a light layer of healing and oil minimizing ingredients without the congestion issues that are sometimes found with moisturizers. Acne prone or oily skin is surprisingly often quite dehydrated. Yes you can have oily but dehydrated (low water) skin. So delivering moisture to oily skin is essential.

Examples of toners for oily or acne-prone skin include:

Third Stone Botanicals Cedarwood Toner – this product delivers concentrated hydration to skin after cleansing just when it needs it and before acid mantle returns which is the best opportunity to lock in extra moisture. The cedarwood essential oil helps to balance out oil production.

Devita Cool Cucumber Toner – well this just smells divine for a start but it also contains chamomile to soothe irritated skin and natural fruit acids to help clean out and tighten pores.

Fresheners are a category of toners that are used for…well exactly that, freshening up your face on a hot day or resetting your mineral makeup, cleansing off makeup at the end of the day or just adding that extra bit of moisture when you look and feel tired or your skin is dehydrated. Based on floral waters, they give much needed moisture but without the drying effects of water (ironic isn’t it but one of the most drying thing we do to our faces everyday is wash with water!).

Treasured Earth Gardenia & Honeysuckle Rehydrating Mist uses rose and lemon myrtle floral water to refresh and rehydrated skin. It also includes the purifying qualities of Iceland Moss so is excellent to help cleanse skin after makeup removal.

For best results use toners twice a day, morning and night after washing your face. One or two sprays is usually enough.

Natural soap contains drugs! Well according to Californian “narcotests” used by traffic cops. While funny now, this was a potentially serious Dr Bronner’s “drug bust”. This video made by Dr Bronner’s explains what really went on! In the second half of the video, the CEO of Dr Bronner’s also explains the difference between real soap and syndet products (liquid soaps commonly found in the beauty section of the supermarket).

I would love to hear any stories you might have that rival this…without mentioning any names of course!

Another gem from Lisa Phipps of Remedica fame and this one speaks to me! If I am going through a bad patch i.e. not looking after my skin or health in general (NEVER! I hear you say) I find that my T-zone becomes oily but strangely underneath my skin is dehydrated. Lisa explains why this happens:

As skin gets older or as our skin metabolics changes, we tend in general to produce less natural oil. Oil or natural lipids are necessary as part of our protective surface of the skin (Acid Mantle). This protective mechanism is a combination of sebum and sweat at healthy levels that act as a barrier against pollutants but also as a defence against dehydration. Destroying that balance or “starving” the skin of a balanced natural lubrication (sebum flow) can create many other problems with the skin, from developing over active sebaceous glands thus “oily” skin, under active sebaceous glands “dehydrated” skin, rough or flaky skin, sensitised skin, contribute to tired and sallow texture as well as making the skin more vulnerable to other cell mechanics that hasten the look of wrinkles and lines.

So what oils should we consider using:

Olive, Avocado, Macadamia and Coconut oil are generally considered to be heavy on the skin. They are more likely to remain on the skin longer. While this does form a protective layer, they aren’t as readily absorbed and so may not be suitable as facial oils. However, they do make excellent body oils.

The lightest and finest facial oils are better absorbed and therefore better carriers for other fat soluble ingredients. They also supply essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to the skin cells more readily. This doesn’t mean they are better, just that they have different properties. In most cases, oil based serums will be a blend of oils, all with different benefits, healing properties, consistency and odour.

The oils listed below are in order from lightest to heaviest:

• Jojoba oil, Olive Squalene, Meadowfoam seed oil
• Evening Primrose oil
• Rosehip oil
• Apricot Kernel oil
• Sweet Almond oil
• Soyabean oil
• Avocado oil
• Wheatgerm oil
• Olive oil
• Coconut oil

I pride myself with being up to date with most skin care ingredients but every now and again I am caught out – thank goodness because every time I discover or rediscover a new and exciting skin care ingredient. In this case, believe it or not, it is jojoba oil. Now, it’s not that I hadn’t heard of jojoba oil before but I guess I hadn’t realised how versatile and beneficial it is for the skin.

An extract from the jojoba seed, the resultant oil is actually considered a wax ester rather than an oil. This is significant because unlike most oils (which have a myriad of different benefits), jojoba wax ester is the most similar to the sebum we naturally produce. This is significant for a number of reasons:

• Jojoba mixes with skin sebum and follows its pathways down to skin cell and skin matrix levels destroying bacteria, dissolving dried skin sebum and creating a deeply moisturising barrier across the skin that allows the transfer of gases and nutrients but holds moisture in.
• It supports the acid mantle of the skin and by doing so can trick the skin into thinking it is producing enough oil, thereby balancing out oil production.
• It is non-comedogenic and so suitable for combination skin and dry acne as well as normal to dry skin types.
• It spreads easily on the skin and absorbs well.

Like anything else, too much of a good thing can be a problem so ideally use no more than 10 drops on the skin…more may increase oil shine due to the skins inability to absorb any excess.

After a quick google search I found many excellent uses for jojoba oil:

• Moisturiser – After dispensing any facial moisturizer onto your palm, try adding a few drops of jojoba oil to make it into a super moisturizer. Flakiness will subside and the moisturizer will have an improved feel on your skin.
• Make-up remover – jojoba oil is not an eye irritant, nor allergenic so you can use it to remove eye makeup. It also easily removes foundation, blush, and lipstick.
• Lip balm – Just put a few drops on your finger and apply to lips. Lots of lip balms tend to contain comedogenic (clogs pores) ingredients, so jojoba oil is a nice alternative.
• Hair conditioner – You can mix a few drops of jojoba oil into your current conditioner or use it on its own. You can also add it to damp hair before drying or add it to dry hair to promote shine. Jojoba oil also moisturizes the scalp, helping prevent dandruff.
• Shave prep – Put a few drops of jojoba beneath your shaving cream  for a more comfortable shave. This helps prevent razor burn and leaves your skin feeling nice and soft.

View Jojoba Oil Products

Whoops! I promised I would post the remainder of Tess Dingle’s ND informative article about sunscreens and haven’t until now. The second half of this article really gets into the nitty-gritty of sunscreen ingredients. This means that you will know what you are looking at when you read the chemical names on the back of a sunscreen bottle and more importantly which of those are good, bad or downright ugly! Useful information indeed!

SUNSCREENS…The good, the bad and the ugly (Part 2)

by Tess Dingle ND

The second half of this article looks at some sunscreen agents commonly in use:

Octyl Methoxycinnamate and other cinnamates cause photo and contact allergy and do not effectively block UVA. We must ask, what is the point of using a sunscreen agent that causes allergy in the presence of sunlight?

Benzophenones/oxybenzone/benzoylmethanes do absorb some UVA radiation but have been found to cause photo/contact allergy and most significantly, they tend to imitate and therefore exacerbate existing skin disease (including acne).

Titanium dioxide effectively blocks out UVA radiation and therefore protects against skin cancer. Although this is also a photon scattering agent (UV reflector), it does absorb UV radiation which produces free radicals in the presence of water. Many manufacturers use different methods to “coat” the particles, making them less reactive.

Salicylates commonly cause photo allergy.

PABA (Paramino benzoic acid) is part of the B group of vitamins. Taken internally, it can help prevent UV damage. Used externally, it causes phototoxicity and sensitisation. PABA generates free radicals when exposed to sunlight, predisposing the skin to cancer. It does not effectively block UVA radiation.  It is banned as a sunscreen agent in Australia.

Zinc oxide effectively blocks out UVA radiation, has the benefit of being inert on the skin (it does not absorb UV radiation) and has skin healing properties. It does, however, contain large particles and can form a paste when applied to the skin. The finer the zinc particles, the less visible they are on the skin. Micronised superfine zinc is the best choice for minimizing the “paste-effect” without resorting to nanoparticles.

Iron oxide is found naturally in mineral clays, which have an ochre colour due to the ferrous (iron) content. Due to the large particle size, iron oxide also acts as a UV reflector and is inert in the sun (does not produce free radicals). Natural mineral clays also contain varying proportions of other UV protectors such as titania.

It must also be noted that this discussion of the active constituents in sunscreens is academic without paying respect to the ingredients in the carrier or base formulation. Do they cause free radical damage themselves and in particular, how well do they stand up to sun exposure?

There are instances of people using sunscreens who have reacted to the excipients (base materials/carriers) included in the formulation, such as preservatives, fragrances and emulsifiers, which have caused contact allergies. So there is cause for concern not only about the active ingredients in sunscreens, but about the inert ingredients as well. Ed note: I don’t know about anyone else but standard sunscreens make my eyes sting and water particularly after swimming in the surf. I worked out that for me, it is probably the product fragrance that is causing this effect. In any case, it has been a long time since I have used a conventional sunscreen as I prefer to stick to zinc oxide based products.

There are a number of base ingredients to look for such as antioxidant vitamins C and E at effective concentrations. Vitamins C and E (tocopherol) are known to protect against skin cancer, particularly when applied topically as they prevent free radical damage from UV radiation. Certified organic shea butter, sesame and avocado oils have natural UV protective qualities, primarily due to their vitamin A and E content. Shea butter also protects against burning (UVB radiation) and is an excellent emollient, softening the skin and preventing the formation of wrinkles. Aloe vera, a plant which has been shown to prevent DNA damage to the skin following sun exposure and its use in treating burns of all descriptions is well-known and an excellent inclusion as a base ingredient. Antioxidant medicinal strength herbal extracts of ginkgo biloba, green tea and pomegranate are also excellent for their ability to protect against DNA damage from UV radiation.

Related Articles:

• Sunscreens…The good, the bad and the ugly (Part 1)
• Nanoparticles – Serious Safety Issues