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My love affair with topical oils for skin and indeed, hair continues with the recent discovery of Tamanu oil. Once again the Remedica brand that brought this amazing oil to my attention. Used in Sensitive Visage and now also available as 100% oil, Tamanu has extraordinarily high levels of essential fatty acids which means it is a powerful skin anti-inflammatory and the potential for a strong healing effect on damaged skin.

The oil is derived from the nut of the Calophyllum inophyllum, a large evergreen tree native to East Africa, coastal India, the South Pacific and even Australia. The oil is green coloured with a “moss” type odour. The green colour is due to the high level of antioxidant phytochemicals in the oil. The nutritional profile of the oil shows up to 38% omega 6 essential fatty acids (EFAs), 0.5% omega 3 EFAs and phytochemicals with healing, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and even anti-viral activity.

As part of my research about Tamanu oil I did a search on You Tube and came up with some interesting videos. There is an amazing progressive healing pictorials using Tamanu oil on a severe scald – it did make me cringe to look at the open burn but the outcome was amazing. If you have the stomach for it, click here. Please note, seek medical advice before applying anything to an open burn as the exposed flesh is so susceptible to infection.

It is not only new burns that benefit from Tamanu oil. A 9 week study looking at the effect of Tamanu oil on significant old scars (over one year or more) showed a reduction in both scar length and width. Twice daily application for a 6 week period was enough to show obvious improvement. I find this quite exciting as old scars are generally really quite hard to minimize and so this effect is quite significant.
Other research has shown the following benefits:

• a soothing effect on damaged skin including sunburn, skin redness, bites and inflammation
• a regenerating effect on skin cells which promotes skin healing (wounds, burns, cracks, scars)
• an anti-bacterial effect which may assist with skin bacterial overgrowth in acne
• antioxidant which has a protective effect against DNA damage and free radical stress resulting from sun exposure
• moisturising and nourishing effects on the skin which can assist with dry, damaged skin – this has a normalizing effect on the protective acid mantle
• an increase in microcirculation which may assist with bruising

I know that we use Sensitive Visage to great effect on those with sensitive, dry and damaged skin but I would love to read comments from any reader that has used Tamanu oil for other skin issues.

Research reference: Dweck, A.C.: Calophyllum inophyllum – Tamanu oil the African, Asian, Polynesian and Pacific Panacea. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 24, 6, 1-8 (2002).

Yes it was all over the news yesterday that the L’Oreal ad campaign with Julia Roberts and Christy Turlington was banned in the UK. Why? The images of both supermodels were overly airbrushed…and then some! UK MP Jo Swinson who lodged the complaint has long been protesting the “overly perfected and unrealistic images” of women in advertising and I say good on her! Not only do these images portray unrealistic images of women but they are also bring into question the integrity of the company promoting the products. If we can’t trust the company creating the ad, can we trust the product? Does it actually do what it claims to? What product gives you the skin of a 21 year old (unless you are in your 20′s) or lengthens your lashes so much you look like you have a genetic defect! None that I can think of. Yes cosmetics can have great effects but to expect to return to the dewiness of our youth is unrealistic.

But more about body image…

Many a time I have read through a women’s magazine only to feel slightly down afterwards. When I finally realised that I was feeling inadequate when compared to perfect images of perfect women, I stopped reading them and then examined my thinking. What finally popped out the end of that thinking process is that I actually feel ok about myself despite the fact I will never match the images portrayed and perpetuated in women’s magazines. It did take a while…oh about 35 years!

At this stage I would like to say that some cosmetic companies are keeping it real. Dove has long been supporting the realistic portrayal of women in advertising. I can’t say I love their product ingredients but I applaud their efforts with body image. If you haven’t seen it already this is a fascinating look at what happens to create the images we see around us: Dove Evolution

I would love to hear your thoughts on this so please comment and let us all know what you think.

I have been meaning to write an article about just what “organic” means for ages and ages. I am really pleased to say now I don’t have to as Pure & Green Organics just sent me this neat video about the topic that is easy to understand and cuts out the jargon – love it! Watch the video below:

View all of the certified organic range from Pure & Green Organics

This is a great “how-to” post from Jodie of Bodecare Body Brushes….

Nothing balances my energy and brightens my mood faster or better than a good scalp massage. No matter how tired I am to start with, by the end of brushing and massaging my scalp I feel energized and refreshed.

The scalp, being an extremity is one of the hardest places for blood to flow. The increased blood flow helps to nourish the follicle. The scalp depends on blood flow to bring oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles. Tension causes tightness in the scalp, which restricts blood flow and can cause hair loss. Scalp massage restores pliability and relieves tension, helping to create an ideal environment for new hair growth. Massaging the scalp also helps loosen and remove dead cells and excess sebum on the scalp, which can hinder new hair growth. Scalp massage helps to distribute the hairs natural oils to protect and condition the hair.

Scalp massage stimulates the circulation and awakens the nervous systems. It can assist to relieve muscle tension that keeps the head feeling tight. The muscles and nerves in the scalp are stimulated by rubbing, tapping, brushing and slapping.   These percussion techniques restore circulation to your scalp and produce a lively tingling feeling that can definitely pull you out of the sleepy doldrums. Regular scalp massage can also increase the shine and health of hair. Try the following scalp massage technique for an energy lift.

How to Dry Massage Scalp:

• Firstly use a hair brush with wood pins and rounded tips on the end of each bristle. The brush should have a rubber cushioned based which gently springs back and forth while tapping the scalp. Go to www.bodecare.com for hair brushes. It gently and uniformly contacts the scalp so as to moderately stimulate the head without any risk for the scalp to be damaged.
• Tap scalp all over with the hair brush. Resist the temptation to tap too hard, it feels good but using too much force can make you dizzy.
• To add more stimulation, lightly brush the scalp with the wood pin brush or alternatively with a firm Dry Body Brush. Flip head over and place brush behind left ear and brush upward to temple. Repeat this 7 times
• Then place brush at base of neck and brush upward to top of head, covering the entire head working from left to right.
• Finish with brush behind right ear and brush upward to temple 7 times.
• Stand upright and place brush in front of left ear and brush down to back of neck, working around the front hair line from left to right, ending with brush behind right ear and brush down to side of neck. Repeat each area 7 times.

Hope you are feeling re-energised again! The beauty of this treatment is you can do it any time of the day. Leave your hair brush at work in your desk, in your bag or in the car and you can quickly give your scalp a lovely massage and it will only look like you are brushing your hair.

A bad nights skin can leave us looking tired but usually after a few good nights sleep things improve and our appearance returns to normal. As a one off, poor sleep can be managed but long-term sleeplessness can have a profoundly negative effect on skin health. Skin issues relating to sleeplessness range from premature ageing to chronic inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis.

The primary reason for this is stress as both the initial cause of the insomnia and the eventual damage to skin tissues.  Insufficient or poor quality sleep has been associated with a rise in cortisol levels (the stress hormone) and a decline in melatonin (the sleep hormone) and seratonin (the feel-good hormone).

Insomnia also disrupts the optimal processing of collagen formation, which is essential for skin structure and integrity. The follow on effects from poor collagen formation include the disruption of the acid mantle leading to excessive moisture loss and increased sensitivity and permeability to topical products.

Studies have shown that stress-induced insomnia can lead to the following skin issues:

• Increased skin permeability leading to heightened skin sensitivity
• Immune deregulation which precipitates or aggravates chronic skin conditions
• Increased potential of bacterial invasion due to a breakdown in skin membrane integrity
• Poor skin elasticity leading to premature ageing
• Skin dehydration

To maintain healthy skin, it is recommended you get at least 7 to 8 hours of restful sleep each night.

So what does this mean for those with chronic skin conditions (including premature ageing and chronic skin dehydration)? Assess your sleep patterns. Ask yourself these questions:

• Are you getting enough sleep?
• Is the sleep you do get good quality sleep?
• Do you toss and turn throughout the night?
• Do you wake feeling exhausted or tired?
• Do you feel chronically tired a lot of the time?
• Do you wake in the night and find it difficult to get back to sleep?
• Do you have thoughts going around and around in your head at night?

If can answer yes to any of these questions on a regular basis, it may be worth addressing your sleep patterns.

A few simple tips to optimize sleep hygiene:

• Set a regular bedtime and stick to it
• Avoid stimulating TV shows or reading just before bed
• Have a cup of chamomile tea an hour before bed (ensure you have time for it to pass through before you hop into bed!)
• Create a pleasant sleep environment e.g. regularly change your bed-sheets and pajamas as there is nothing nicer than hopping into a clean bed.
• Listen to a relaxing meditation CD or white noise before bed or as you are going to sleep
• Add a few drops of quality lavender oil to your pillow slip as it will help to encourage relaxation
• Exercise during the day as it will help tire you out physically
• Avoid caffeine containing drinks after midday

There are many other tips to help you get a good nights sleep but remember if it is a chronic problem, seek help as there are solutions that don’t involve sleeping tablets. And ideally, deal with the stress that is causing the insomnia in the first place.

If you have any sleep tips, let us know. I am sure all readers will benefit.

I was given a great resource the other day from the Choose Cruelty Free (CCF) organisation: a copy of their latest booklet “being cruel is uncool”. I opened the book an almost vomited on the spot – true! The picture that made me feel so queasy was of an animal that had had been used to test eye cosmetics. I won’t describe the picture more than to say it was gruesome. Images of cruelty aside this booklet contains a product list of preferred vegan and cruelty free products in Australia.

It also outlines the common animal tests including the following:

• Toxicity test – animals are fed substances until a predetermined percentage of them die. I couldn’t work out why these tests are done except if it were to extrapolate the data to humans to determine the potential toxicity in humans? Can anyone comment?
• Draize Eye Test – this is where concentrated substances are applied to the eyes of test animals that are restrained and unanaesthetised.
• Draize Patch Test – this is a big one in the cosmetic industry where test substances are applied to animal’s skin. Reactions include severe burns.

I strongly feel that cosmetic testing on animals is completely unnecessary when there are so many alternatives available. One of the things that appeals to me about using natural ingredients is that most of them have been used safely by humans for a very long time. This creates a history of safe use and so animal tests don’t even factor into the equation. Thank goodness.

The most interesting thing I noticed was that there are obviously many ingredients that are animal derivatives that are being used in some cosmetics that do have natural plant alternatives. A couple of examples I found:

• Glycerine from animal fat which is a byproduct of soap manufacture. Before the development of syndet bars (petrochemical based soaps and detergents) most commercial soap was made from beef tallow which is essentially beef fat. Fortunately for us the Spanish had developed Castile soap a couple of hundred years ago and now we have the benefit of natural plant based soaps that are rich in vegetable glycerine.
• Hyaluronic acid – this is an anti-aging hero ingredient that is easily sourced from vegetables such as mushrooms or potatoes. However, up until 5 years ago the most common source was rooster combs. I am really glad the humble potato is a source of this great skin nutrient.
• Palm Oil – well this one comes from Palm Trees however the palm oil industry has a devastating effect on the fauna of the Asia Pacific, particularly wild Orangutan colonies.  Fortunately there are a number of sustainable alternatives including Australian palm oil plantations that are grown without rainforest destruction. These have to be certified to be given the sustainable label. Lavera is one company that uses certified sustainable palm oil. There are also great alternatives to palm oil including rice bran oil and grapeseed oil.

From my perspective, not all the brands included are natural or even organic but it does list many natural ranges and some that we sell. I must say at this point that brands that test cosmetics on animals are automatically excluded from the ranges that we retail. We don’t even consider them – ever. Nor do we have products that include animal parts that are extracted from animals such as placenta. We do however have products that contain beeswax, goat’s milk, propolis and carmine and I will note that those products wouldn’t be endorsed by CCF.

I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this topic.

It pains me to admit it but I have a skin issue – over the last 6 months I have developed two small red patches, each one about the size of a match head exactly where I hold my mobile phone. One is on my jawline and the other just in front of my ear. At first I wasn’t concerned and actually just thought one was a scratch, but then it didn’t heal and kept peeling and bleeding and this is when I became concerned. Given my pale skin and blue eyes (high risk factors for basal cell carcinomas) I took myself off to the sun cancer clinic for a 6 monthly check and the Doctor took a biopsy. I find out in a couple of weeks if one of the patches is a BCC. But if it isn’t, what is it AND why did both patches appear EXACTLY where I use my phone. Of course I have a few of theories:

Firstly, it may actually be a basal cell carcinoma – this still raises the question as to why the location in particular. I have come up with a possible reason BUT please note, this are just my own thoughts and certainly not proof.

Hot spots on the skin generated by mobile phone use are well documented and in fact (call me paranoid, my partner does!) I avoid using my iphone for long periods as it makes my ear and the left side of my head hot where I hold it. I usually use it on speaker or pick up a land line for long calls. Research conducted in Russia has shown that mobile use can increase the skin temperature at the site by up to 4.7 degrees Celsius.  Professor Olle Johansson a Swedish scientist is concerned that microwave radiation (the frequency used by mobiles) may be altering skin cells. He says, “If microwave radiation is causing the skin to heat up it could also be having other effects – potentially causing abnormalities in cells.”

So, just imagine that this is the case, the hot spots from the phone perhaps combined with years of QLD sun exposure may actually be promoting the development of a BCC in my skin. I also have to note that the red patches have been worse since I took the protective plastic coat and case off my iphone and this may actually lead to it being another issue entirely…

A nickel allergy! Again it has been well documented that mobile phones (this research hasn’t been updated since the introduction of the iphone) containing nickel in the exterior coating can cause a type of contact dermatitis. I call it mob-i-derm (mobile phone induced dermatitis)! If this is the case I have to note, I have never experienced a nickel allergy beforehand despite wearing lots of cheap silver jewelry in the early 90s. However, the fact that it was worse once I removed the case means more direct skin contact and greater potential for an allergy. I did a quick search on Apple products and there are a lot of anecdotal reports of contact dermatitis from ipads and Mac Book Pro computers so at a guess, the iphone may also contain nickel.

Thirdly, and this goes back to hot spots but there are numerous cases of what is called “toasted skin syndrome” which is actually commonly associated with laptop use on bare legs. Ok so this hasn’t been linked with mobile phone use as yet but the similarity of the “hot spots” make it a potential but as yet identified cause. In addition, bringing us back to issues with carcinomas, those with toasted skin syndrome may have an increased risk of developing squamous cell cancer due to prolonged inflammation of the skin. However, at the point of writing this, there have been no identified cases so again, this is just a hypothesis.

Finally, and this is where it gets a bit out there, apparently a percentage of the population are becoming hypersensitive to electronics. The Swedish Association for the Electro HyperSensitive (yes there is such an association!) lists some of the warning signs as:

• An unnatural warmth or burning sensation in the face.
• A tingling, stinging or pricking sensation in the face or other areas of the body
• Dryness of the upper respiratory tract or eye irritation.
• Swollen mucus membranes resulting in nonviral/bacterial swelling of nose, throat, ear and sinuses.
• Feeling of impending influenza that never quite breaks out.
• Headache and nausea.
• Teeth and jaw pains.
• Ache in muscles and joints.
• Cardiac palpitations.

The only symptom that I can relate to is the first one and so I don’t think that I am personally hypersensitive to electronics but with the rise in use of personal electronic gadgets in our lives, it may be more common that we think.

So, I guess after slightly over-thinking this issue the best thing I can do is wait to see the results of my skin biopsy…and use a headset for my phone in the meantime. I am prepared, although somewhat indignantly given the care I have taken of my skin for so long, that the patches may just be the result of sun damage (it is human nature to look for something else to blame…isn’t it???).  I would love to know if anyone else has any thoughts about this issue, ideas about how to manage it or have experienced anything similar.

Skin type can be confusing to pinpoint particularly when you don’t seem to fit into a particular definition. I often have people ask me what their skin type is because they get dry patches around their cheeks and eyes and an oily nose or chin or T-zone. Commonly called combination this skin type can seem inadequate particularly when there are dry, flakey patches of skin combined with breakouts or oily skin that is sometimes oily and sometimes just congested. And really does it matter what it is called when you have no idea how to manage it. Products for oily skin tend to further dry out already dry areas. Products for dry skin just end up causing increased oiliness and/or congestion. This leads me to question how one product range for a particular skin type can actually manage a combination skin.

Of course there are products for combination skin types and these are a good start for mildly oily and dry combination skin types however, if you are experiencing lots of oiliness with dry skin or even dry skin with breakouts, combination skin ranges usually don’t do much to help.

Mango Cleansing Gel

A recent e-mail from a client illustrates this point: I have very (VERY!) oily, congested, red skin that is often itchy and quite sensitive. I usually have anywhere from 5 to 40 pimples at one time (usually those horrible deep ones that hurt!). I also tend to get eczema, although this is usually on my hands and arms and very rarely on my face, but that may be what is making my face so itchy lately. I can actually feel how congested my skin is and the oil is very hard to control. Any products I use for oily skin often leave my skin feeling tight and itchy. Please help!!

My answer took into account a number of factors which include:

• repair of the acid mantle – this is cricital to stop moisture loss from the skin. At the same time as allowing moisture loss which creates dry areas of skin, poor acid mantle protection will actually stimulate excess oil production in other areas leading to both oily and dry skin at the same time.
• internal nutrition – are there any nutritional issues that are contributing to this condition
• reducing congestion – congestion will contribute to further breakouts
• prioritising treatment – in this case, balancing the acid mantle and correcting nutritional imbalances will have a positive effect on breakouts. This is the priority. Internal nutrition and managing other factors such as hormones, diet, stress etc will help to minimise breakouts as well.

So my reply was: The very first and most important thing I want to say is that the oiliness of your skin together with concurrent dry patches and eczema is likely a reflection of an internal imbalance of essential fatty acids (EFAs) and possibly also B vitamins. It is quite tricky to get EFAs out to the skin as the critical organs such as the heart and brain use them first. So I recommend the drink below as a really quick way of boosting your skin levels which will help relieve dryness and balance out oiliness in about 7-10 days. I have put the recipe below.

In addition I recommend the Remedica Clair Visage at night. This will help to balance the acid mantle of your skin which is currently not protecting your skin. It is a very light oil/hydrosol based serum which will help to nourish skin without contributing to congestion (Editors note: remember from previous blogs that you can use molecularly light oils on oily skin and it will actually help rather than hinder the condition). During the day I recommend the Treasured Earth Balancing Lotion. Daytime is when a lotion is needed rather than an oil as they help to prevent water loss when you are out and about. It is a light but nourishing product. Couple this with the Treasured Earth Mango Cleanser. It is an effective cleanser that doesnt strip the skin. One of the worst things you can do for your skin is to dry it out in hopes that it will stop oil production. Overwashing or using harsh cleansers dries out your skin and causes irritation and inflammation. Your skin will take that as a signal to produce more oil and therefore more acne lesions.

If you find the area around your eyes is particularly dry, use an eye cream. There are no sebaceous glads around the eyes and as such this area is more prone to losing moisture. Any eye cream you use can be richer than the day moisturiser. In effect we are managing your skin in zones, treating the dry areas differently from the oily areas. The Treasured Earth Rose Eye Cream is a nourishing eye cream without being too rich. 

Lemon Flax Drink

• 1 tablespoon of flax oil
• 1 tablespoon of soy lecithin (the German is better than the US version)
• Juice of half a lemon
• 250-300mls of water

Blend on high for 30 seconds. This makes one serve. You can double the quantity and have it before lunch or dinner as well.

Let me know how you go…you may not love the taste but it does such good things for your body.

To help you manage the underlying cause of the breakouts have a look at our Acne Information Page.

As with all things, sometimes we just don’t fit into a neat category. In these cases, don’t give up – look outside the box and try a different solution.

Related Articles:

• How to treat sensitive and acne-prone skin
• Clair Visage – a serum for acne-prone skin
• Myth Busting Facial Oils

I have blogged about the benefits of dry skin brushing before – it is great for stimulating the lymphatic system, promoting good circulation, sloughing off dry skin cells and even helping reduce cellulite. In this video by Jodie from Bodecare, she shows us how to properly brush your butt to get the circulation and lymphatic flow moving. Every time I read or see something about dry body brushing I am reminded of how fantastic it is and how my skin benefits from daily brushing…even though I only manage about 4 or 5 times a week it still makes a huge difference.

This second video is about skin brushing in general and outlines the benefits of daily dry skin brushing.

See the full Bodecare range here

Related articles and videos:

• Cellulite – is there anything I can do about it?
• Lymphatic Detoxification
• How to Dry Body Brush

Chin Congestion

I have been having a few problems with congestion on my chin…again! I think it is due to the warm weather and not having a bathroom – our house is mid-renovation and so I have nowhere to put my skincare. As such my skin is suffering a little! So I pulled out my emergency bottle of Devita AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and have applied it 3 nights out of the last 6. I can already feel the difference – my chin feels less rough. I have put down a little about fruit acids below – how they work and what to look for in a good AHA product.

Fruit acids have long been shown to promote rapid change in rough skin by encouraging the rate of cellular turnover which can bring the appearance of smoother, younger looking skin, reduced pore size, and to give a healthy glow. The other benefits of fruit acids include helping to minimize break-outs particularly if they are related to congestion or makeup use, and milia bumps, reduce the appearance of fine lines, deeper wrinkles and darkened areas on the face. With past use I have noticed a reduction in pore size on my chin and nose. I have no wrinkles on my chin so cannot comment about their size reduction!

Using a therapeutic fruit acid blend will help manage the damaged upper layers of skin. They work by destroying the ‘glue’, which holds dead skin to the surface. As this dead skin is lifted, the other ingredients carry the individual flakes away and a water rinse neutralizes the skin. The result is a much-smoother skin surface and a more youthful appearance. A secondary benefit is fruit acid’s ability to draw moisturizers into the newly-exfoliated skin surface. It is always recommended to follow fruit acid use with a good quality moisturizer. New skin will absorb more of any product applied, both good and bad so it is best to use a natural or organic moisturizer.

Sources of Hydroxy Acids

• Alpha hydroxy acids found in fruits including lemons, strawberries and grapes;
• Malic acid comes from apples, vinegar, applesauce, cider;
• Lactic acid is found in buttermilk, yogurt, powdered skim milk, sour cream, blackberries, tomatoes;
• Tartaric acid is found in grapes, grape juice and wine;
• Glycolic acid come from sugar cane.

How often can Fruit Acids be used?

It is ideal to use Fruit Acids no more than 2-3 times a week and preferably at night. Night-time use is due to a potential increase in sun sensitivity. Your skin can be more easily sunburnt when you use fruit acids as they are revealing newer, younger skin so ensure that you use an SPF30 sunscreen during the day.

The concentration (or %) of acid needs to be above 8% to be effective. Anything below 8% will not have significant skin benefits. Devita AHA is a potent blend of all natural fruit and sugar acids (12%). The high concentration means that this product will gently help retexturize the skin.

Please note with any concentrated product it is possible to over-use and over-stress the skin. A less is more approach is recommended and more is not better in this case. Use any AHA product as directed.

Read more about Devita AHAs

Related Articles

• Skin Congestion Information Page
• Topical Ingredients for Slow Ageing