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In my clinic I work with many patients that have skin issues, not just eczema, acne or psoriasis but also generally dry, dehydrated or irritated skin. While I always treat each patient individually (there is no all-encompassing solution) there is one recipe that makes a huge difference in skin hydration, inflammation and sensitivity. I found this recipe from Karen Fischer’s fantastic book “The Healthy Skin Diet” but in clinic over the years I have adapted it to suit my patients.

Originally the recipe called for Flax Oil and certainly you can use this instead but I have found that naturally lemon-flavoured Omega 3 Fish Oil or Super D Cod Liver Oil are much more effective. Why you may ask?

Skin Healing Drink

This recipe is tried and true and is fantastic for anyone with sensitive, dry, dehydrated or inflamed skin. The lemon has an astringent effect which means it stimulates the liver to release bile into the digestive tract to be eliminated. The bile contains stored toxins so effectively you are dumping waste from your liver. The lecithin and fish oil prime your digestive system for the day, particularly your fat digestion so again supporting the liver. And of course water is just plain good for you and helps flush out daily waste particularly via your kidneys.

It also has the effect of super-saturating your body with essential fatty acids. So in addition to the excellent detox effect, flax seed oil supports the moisture holding capacity of your skin cells and has a anti-inflammatory effect thereby supporting your skin’s health. Feedback from client is that skin is generally less red and much more even toned since being on the Lemon Detox/Skin Healing Drink.

The recipe is as follows:

1/2 lemon (wash the outside)
1 teaspoon of soy lecithin (German is better than US variety)
1 teaspoon of naturally lemon flavoured Omega 3 Fish Oil or Cod Liver Oil
300mls of filtered water

Method: Squeeze in the lemon juice into the blender. Add the lecithin, oil and water. Blend for 1 minute until frothy. Pour and drink. Feel free to add other ingredients such as ginger or turmeric to spice up the flavour.

If you try out this recipe I would love to hear your feedback.

The weather in Brisbane in the last week has been variable to say the least. The first few days my skin felt as dry as old leather. Fortunately for me it didn’t look that way but it made me realise that the humidity has dropped and finally the cooler weather is on its way. Skin dryness or dehydration occurs when the water and oils that form part of the protective layer are out of balance as it is the balance of sebum (skin oil) and perspiration that keeps the skin healthy. This can happen for various reasons that I have outlined below:

1. Evaporation of moisture through the skin. Factors that promote moisture evaporation include dry air (ie lack of humidity in winter, heating or air-conditioning), wind, and prolonged water exposure (swimming in pools or long showers).

• I love swimming and swim about 3 times a week in a 50:50 salt water chlorine pool. The way I manage my skin dryness is to have a quick shower immediately after swimming and then slather myself in a good, rich natural moisturiser. My favourite is Remedica Vanilla and Shea Body Butter – my skin just soaks it up.
• If you want to have a relaxing, hot bath just add some oil to the bath water. This coats your skin in a light layer of oil, helping to protect from water loss. I use Remedica Monoi Blue or Coconut Magic Pure Coconut Oil.
• Dry Skin Brush – it gets rid of dry, dead skin cells. Need I say more!

2. Damage to the waterproof barrier or disruption of the acid mantle leaving the skin open to issues such as dehydration, roughness, infection, redness and irritation. Synthetic foaming agents such as sodium laurel sulphate are a significant cause of acid mantle disruption.

• For very dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin choose the Haven Scent Coconut Cream Cleanser. This is almost like using a cold cream to remove make up as it is very rich and creamy. You can use a moist flannel to wipe the cleanser off.
• For normal skin types, the La Mav Soothing Cream Cleanser or Mukti Gentle Foaming Cleanser

Choose a richer moisturiser. Generally if you just choose the next richest moisturiser up from your current one. Alternatively, try using your night cream during the day. If it sinks in without a greasy feel, then it is suitable for day use. A few good recommendations include:

• Devita Rx Ultrahydrate - a rich cream with hyaluronic acid to increase skin moisture holding capacity
• Sophyto Omega Daily Moisturiser – great for moisture depleted skin
• Third Stone Botanicals Rosewood Moisture Lotion – a lighter lotion that has a lovely moisturising effect.

3. The inside stuff. What you put into your body also has an impact in skin hydration. Reducing factors that have a diuretic effect such as alcohol and coffee will increase cellular hydration. It is also important to have adequate good fats in the diet. Good fats such as essential fatty acids (EFA’s) ensure the cell membrane remains flexible. This allows the cell to excrete toxins and cellular waste products and hold onto nutrients and water. EFAs also help to keep skin flexible and hydrated and promoting skin healing. Deep Sea fish are among the best source of EFAs including tuna, salmon, anchovies and sardines. Other good sources of EFA’s include avocado, nuts & seeds, flaxoil and Evening Primrose Oil. Keep in mind…

• Drink enough water as adequate water intake is required to maintain cellular fluid.
• Essential fatty acids from good fats help maintain the fatty membrane surrounding the cell, holding in moisture and nutrition. Good fat sources include deep sea fish, olive oil, nuts & seeds, avocado and flax seeds.
• If your skin is really dry, try the Lemon Detox drink for 7 days. The difference this will make is truly astounding. The recipe calls for Flax Oil but you can use Liquid Fish or Cod Liver Oil (with natural lemon flavouring) as well.

4. Ageing. As we age the production of sebum and natural oils lessens effectively reducing the water holding capacity of our skin. This leads to drier skin. You can counter this by using an oil based serum. Apply the serum under your moisturiser during the day (only use half a pump) or instead of a night cream. Any serum you use should sink into the skin completely within 5 minutes. Our product picks are:

• Remedica Regenerate Visage or Mismo ACE Serum – either of these lovely serums will nourish the skin deeply and more than that help improve the skin cell health.

5. Stress increases the likelihood of heightened neuro-sensory reaction in the skin. In situations such as this wind, touch and cosmetic brushes can cause irritation or redness. Managing stress can be quite individual and often required internal nervous system support as well as de-stressing practices such as yoga, breathing exercises or meditation. If your skin becomes red or irritated easily, particularly in dry cold weather, choose products scent free products and nourishing oils

• Mukti Calendula Cream is ideal for very sensitive, reactive skin. It is rich and nourishing. The addition of Calendula helps to reduce inflammation and heal flaky skin. For more tips about very sensitive skin, go to our Sensitive Skin Page.

After 23 years of lobbying the European Coalition to End Animal Experiments has finally succeeded which means part of the world at least is a kinder and more humane place. Specifically the group has brought about a ban on the use of animals in cosmetics testing in all member countries of the European Union. This covers all personal care products from high-end to supermarket brands. The fantastic part about this is that it doesn’t just cover the end product but also includes a ban on testing individual product ingredients. Cosmetics sold in Europe will still be safety tested by agreed upon non-animal methods.

Standard animal testing in the US and Europe up until today, although not required by law can include:

• skin and eye irritation tests where chemicals are rubbed onto the shaved skin or dripped into the eyes of restrained rabbits without any pain relief
• repeated force-feeding studies lasting weeks or months to look for signs of general illness or specific health hazards such as cancer or birth defects
• widely condemned “lethal dose” tests, in which animals are forced to swallow large amounts of a test chemical to determine the dose that causes death.

So the big question is “does animal testing take place in Australia”. According to the RSPCA, “there is no testing of cosmetics involving animals conducted in Australia. However, the majority of cosmetic products sold here will contain ingredients that will have been tested on animals at some time.” So the changes in Europe will have a positive impact for Australia, particularly with relation to imported cosmetics. The next step for consumers is to either choose confirmed cruelty-free cosmetic providers (which buying from Vitale Natural Online certainly ensures) or if you do buy from overseas, choose cosmetics manufactured in Europe rather than the US or Asia.

In any case this is a huge step forward and will hopefully inspire change in other cosmetic manufacturing countries. Well done Europe.

As a naturopath there are topics that I am asked about regularly and one of those is what oils to use when cooking. Well this can be quite confusing because a number of factors have to be taken into account:

1. The smoke point of an oil – once an oil starts to smoke it is a sign that the oil is starting to break down and from this point on will lose both flavour and nutritional value. If an oil has reached its smoke point it is a good idea to clean out the pan and start again at a lower temperature.
2. The fatty acid composition of the oil. Saturated fats are more stable (less likely to oxidise and create free radicals) than both monounsaturated and polyunsaturated oils and therefore are better to cook with at higher temperatures. Coconut oil is an example of an oil that contains healthy plant saturated fats. It is great to use for higher temperature cooking. Also good are animal fats from grass fed organic sources. Organic butter, ghee and animal fats such as Lard and duck fat are also suitable for cooking but smoke points vary.
3. For low temperature cooking and baking oils such as Olive oil, Macadamia oil, organic Peanut and Hazelnut are suitable as they are high in monounsaturated which are relatively stable and low in polyunsaturated fatty acids which oxidise very easily. Monounsaturated fats are also heart healthy (think Mediterranean Diet).
4. Oils such as Rice bran and Canola have been left off this list as they are high in Omega 6 polyunsaturated oils which are easily oxidised and of which we already get too much of in our diet. This excess throws the balance of our omega 3 to omega 6 ratio and ultimately has a pro-inflammatory effect in our body.
5. For cold/room temperature dressings freely use the following oils: Olive, Sesame, Walnut, Pecan, Macadamia, Avocado and Flaxseed. These oils are rich in monounsaturates and/or Omega 3.
6. Partially hydrogenated oils such as those found in spreads, processed foods and margarines are best avoided. Make your own spread using a 50:50 mix of organic butter and olive oil. It’s healthy and home-made. Or use avocado (rich in lots of other goodies apart from the good fats), hummus, tahini paste, nut butters or just plain old organic butter.
7. When oils are refined, they undergo a variety of chemical processes, including deodorizing, bleaching, and anti-foaming. Therefore it is best to chose unrefined oils and organic where you can.

Click on the image below to take you to Balanced Bites for an easy printout of what to use and what to avoid:

Skin type is predominantly a genetic trait and generally skin type doesn’t change much over your lifetime however, nutritional status, overall health, external factors such as sun damage and aging can cause changes in the integrity of skin making it important to reassess your skin’s needs ensuring you use the appropriate products. Using products that don’t suit your basic skin type can cause numerous skin issues.

There are four key skin types: oily, combination, normal and dry. In addition to the basic skin types, there are skin issues which include congestion, sensitivity and dehydration. You will only ever be one skin type but you may have a number of skin issues. These are not genetic and tend to be the result of diet and lifestyle choices or using skin care that doesn’t suit your skin type. The characteristics of each skin type and issue are listed below. Please remember however, that every skin type is different and if you feel that you don’t fit into any of these types or have any of these issues, contact our skin specialist, who will assist you with a personalized skin analysis and product prescription.
If you know your skin type, click here to view products suited to your skin

Oily Skin – producing too much oil

• Large or open pores
• An oily appearance by midday or into the afternoon
• Prone to blackheads, whiteheads and congestion
• Possibly pustules

One of the common issues with oily skin is the use of creams that are too rich for the skin. The misconception is that a rich or heavy cream (by rich I mean including butters and waxes) will have a better moisturising effect. Regardless of the “richness” of a product, if it is chosen to correctly match the skin type, the moisture content and nutritional status of the skin will improve.

The other common misconception with oily skin is that not using a moisturiser at all will help reduce oiliness. Oily skins still need skin nutrition, moisture in the form of water and ingredients that will help to control sebum, the factor that creates “shine”. A good moisturiser for oily will do all of these things.

The benefit of oily skin is that those with oily skin will tend to age more gracefully than their drier-skinned counterparts.

Click here to view products suited to an oily skin type

Combination skin – the most common skin type

• Oily T-section or nose/chin and drier cheeks and eye area OR oily T-section and normal nose/chin skin
• A tendency towards enlarged pores and blackheads on the t- zone.
• Cheeks may feel comfortable in Summer or dry in Winter, depending on the humidity.

Many with combination skin tend to go for richer creams to help moisturise the drier sections of skin but this causes issues such as clogging and breakouts with the oily sections. A light but highly nourishing moisturiser combined with an eye cream is a better option than a rich cream. The other thing that is important is regular but gentle exfoliation to get rid of the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. On drier skin this is important to allow mositurisers to penetrate more easily. With the oily skin areas, it stops the buildup of dead skin cells in open pores.

Click here to view products for combination skin

Dry Skin – needs more oil

• Never gets shiny – has a matte appearance all over.
• Has very small or invisible pores.
• May also feel tight or uncomfortable.
• Can be prone to fine lines.

Dry skin lacks both sebum and moisture due to insufficient production by the sebaceous glands which reduces the cells ability to hold onto moisture. Usually dry skin is delicate with small or no obvious pores and quite fine textured. However, due to the lack of moisture and oil, it is likely to show obvious signs of aging sooner than other skin types such as wrinkles and fine lines. There may also be red or flaky patches evident.

First and foremost it is important with dry skin to prevent further drying out of the skin. To do this it is important to avoid alcohol based products as they worsen dryness. Daily moisturising is essential. It prevents moisture loss and supplies the skin with essential nutrients and oils to keep the cells well nourished. A healthy cell is more likely to hold onto moisture. Avoid foaming cleansers in general and particularly those containing sodium lauryl sulphate as they will disrupt the acid mantle and again reduce the moisture holding capacity of the skin.

Other tips include drinking enough water and eating plenty of essential fatty acids which are found in nuts & seeds, fish and flax oil.

Click here to view products for dry skin

Normal Skin -   Neither oily nor dry

• A smooth and even texture
• Has small to medium pores.
• May also get a little shiny on the T-zone towards late afternoon.
• Occasionally be little dry on the cheeks.
• Have the occasional pimple or blackhead.

Click here to view products for normal skin

Skin Issues
Dehydrated Skin – if your skin lacks radiance and feels “tight” it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine lines due to loss of elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if we don’t stop this occurrence our skin loses its ability to protect against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity. Check for these signs:

• Flakiness
• Fine lines on the surface of the skin
• A dull complexion

Click here to view products suited to dehydrated skin

Sensitive Skin - heightened skin sensitivity and adverse reactions to certain irritants characterizes sensitive skin. Common skin irritants include detergents, certain skin care ingredients particularly synthetics and petrochemical ingredients and environmental factors such as heat, sun exposure, cold and wind. There is a strong correlation between dry skin and sensitive skin. Those with thin or finely textured skin are more prone to skin sensitivity. Common characteristics of sensitivity include:

• Red or blotchy skin
• Easily reacts to certain skin care products
• Stinging or uncomfortable sensations, particularly after cleansing
• Prone to rashes and irritations
• Reddening or burning skin as a result of sun, heat, cold or wind
• Fine lines, spots or freckles that worsen with age

Click here to view products for sensitive skin

Congested Skin – skin congestion is characterised by blocked pores, dull skin, uneven skin, blackheads and whiteheads.

Click here to view products for congested skin or here to read an article that looks at the management of this condition.

Signs of vitamin deficiencies show up firstly in the skin, hair and nails. The reason this occurs is due to the fact that in times of stress or low intake the body preferentially provides nutrition to the critical organs such as the heart, lungs and brain rather than the skin. So irritating skin issues such as cracks in the corners of the mouth or peri oral dermatitis may actually be signalling a nutrient deficiency rather than a disease state or skin condition.

Underlying causes for nutrient deficiencies are many and various but often come back to reduced intake or excess demand. Inadequate intake of water-soluble vitamins such as the B group and vitamin C is more common due to the fact that our body doesn’t store these vitamins. Any excess passes out on a daily basis. It makes sense then that an inadequate intake of B group and vitamin C rich foods could eventually lead to signs of deficiency. Fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamins A, E, D and K are slower to show up as deficiency sigs as our body stores these nutrients in some cases for long fairly long periods. However, lack of dietary intake (or sunshine) will eventually use up stored resources and again eventually lead to lower levels.

The other factor that may lead to skin signs of deficiency is placing excess demands on our vitamin resources. Stress, environmental toxins, dietary excesses and ill health will all use vitamins up, sometimes faster than we are taking them in. Again the net result is lower levels.

A good dietary intake of both water and fat-soluble vitamins will help to maintain healthy and vibrant skin. For specific skin signs, the nutrient association and the food sources see the table below.

It is important to note that because fat soluble vitamins build up in the body, it is advisable to speak to a health care professional such as your doctor, naturopath or nutritionist before taking supplemental forms.

Please comment if you have any questions.

Dark circles are the bane of some people existence and to others a temporary change in appearance often associated with lack of sleep. While sleep deprivation may be one cause another often overlooked cause may actually be lack of water. Dehydration can show up around the eye area as dark circles and possibly even a slight temporary increase in the appearance of wrinkles.

To help improve the appearance of tired eyes try these tips:

1. Drink at least 6-8 x 300ml glasses of pure, filtered water per day. Water is essential for all cellular process including the movement of toxins out and nutrients into the cell. In mid winter it can be hard to drink water so consider adding a little water from the kettle to make it warm. Or drink a few herbal teas during the day to boost your water intake. Coffee and black tea don’t count as water intake as they actually have a diuretic effect which may make dehydration worse.
2. Include good fats in your diet as they help to improve hydration from the inside. Everyday food sources include fish, avocado, nuts & seeds and olive oil. Alternatively consider a Omega 3 fatty acid supplement.
3. Hydrate your skin from the outside. Use an eye cream or gel that contains Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid or Ginseng extract to help reduce the appearance of under eye dark circles. Gels tend to be better if eyes are puffy and creams where dryness or an anti-aging effect is required.
4. Hide it! To reduce the effect of dark circles use a cream concealer. Mineral or finishing powders tend to highlight any dryness or creases where as cream/fluid concealers will add moisture as well as coving up darkness. Choose a shade lighter than your natural skin tone.
5. Get some sleep. Don’t rule out good sleep and generally one night won’t cut it. If you are sleep deprived, think about why and if you can change your patterns. Head to bed earlier to give yourself the chance to fall into deeper sleep for longer. The bonus is that your energy levels should also increase.
6. Consume foods that contain vitamin C and antioxidants to improve the microvasculature around the eyes. This will help to clear the blue/purple undertone of dark circles. Studies show that foods rich in carotenoids improve skin tone and colour. Carotenoid rich foods include berries, capsicum, spinach, pumpkin, carrot, green leafies and tomatoes (yellow, orange, red and green veg)
7. Give yourself an eye treatment. Take 15 minutes and make yourself a cup of chamomile or green tea. Pop the used bags in the fridge to cool down then place over closed eyes for 15 minutes. This will help reduce puffiness and is calming to the eye area. Cucumber slices will also help.

If you have come across a treatment that works for dark circles we would love to hear – please comment.

Our skin has a low permeability, which blocks foreign substances such as toxins from penetrating through the skin and coming into contact with our internal organs. On the surface of the skin is a very fine, slightly acidic film that is secreted by the sweat glands. This layer is called the acid mantle because it has a pH of between 4.5 and 6.2 (any measure less than 7 is considered acidic. Above 7 is alkaline). The acid mantle acts as a barrier protecting your skin from the elements (wind and pollution) and from bacteria, viruses and other contaminants that might penetrate the skin or cause irritation. Apart from acting as a physical barrier the acid mantle helps to neutralize the chemical effects of contaminants, which are generally alkaline.

The daily barrage of pollution in the form of chemicals from the atmosphere, bacteria,  and commercial skin care such as sodium laurel sulphate based cleansers can cause the acid mantle to be disrupted or lose its acidity.  When this occurs, skin is more prone to damage, sensitivity responses (allergy like symptoms), irritation, infection and redness. Stress also plays a large role in the health of the skin pH.

Maintaining a healthy acid mantle and therefore pH is not only vital for skin protection but it also helps maintain healthier skin for longer. Other skin issues associated with a disrupted skin barrier include:

• A greater risk of acne – the bacteria associated with acne (Propionibacterium acnes) are naturally found on the surface of the skin however, when the pH is disturbed and becomes more alkaline, the numbers of p. acne thrive. It is important to maintain a natural pH of no greater than 5.5 if prone to acne or skin problems. All cleansers are alkaline which changes the acid mantle and it can take up to 2 hours for the pH to return to normal. Over time daily cleansing with a harsh cleanser will leave the skin dry and sensitive. Ideally a cleanser pH for acne should be 4.5 – 5.5. Aiming for a squeaky clean feeling may actually be doing more harm than good in the long term.
• Faster ageing – in our 40’s the skin responses are slower and natural skin processes such as oil and moisture renewal decrease. After cleansing, a return to normal pH can take up to 8 hours.

Once the acid mantle is damaged there are definitely ways of encouraging repair:

1. Choose your cleanser carefully. The cleansers from Sophyto work to support the mildly acidic pH of the skin thereby protecting against the gradual decline over time. For more on cleansers click here
2. Use oils to help create a protective layer and support the skin cell nutrition – for more information about what oil will suit your skin click here
3. Try stress reduction – click here to read how stress impacts your skin
4. Incorporate antioxidants and good fats into your diet- click here to read more

Find out about the new range to Vitale – Sophyto Organic Skin Care

Pure & Green have created this great video about the absolute benefits of using organic skin care and particularly the use of wholefood ingredients.

View Pure & Green Organics range of whole organic skin care

I came across this excellent pictorial from Inspired Souls on Facebook. Research informs us that the average woman applies over 515 chemicals to her body each day and we are seeing more and more evidence that at least some of these are not just toxic but cancer causing. Apart from reducing cancer potential, avoiding toxic chemicals in skin care and thereby reducing overall toxic load just makes good sense.

I think the visual brings home the the idea of just how many toxic chemicals we may be applying each day. View the most worrying chemicals used everyday below:

Check our our toxic free alternatives at Vitale Natural Online