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Chin Congestion

I have been having a few problems with congestion on my chin…again! I think it is due to the warm weather and not having a bathroom – our house is mid-renovation and so I have nowhere to put my skincare. As such my skin is suffering a little! So I pulled out my emergency bottle of Devita AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and have applied it 3 nights out of the last 6. I can already feel the difference – my chin feels less rough. I have put down a little about fruit acids below – how they work and what to look for in a good AHA product.

Fruit acids have long been shown to promote rapid change in rough skin by encouraging the rate of cellular turnover which can bring the appearance of smoother, younger looking skin, reduced pore size, and to give a healthy glow. The other benefits of fruit acids include helping to minimize break-outs particularly if they are related to congestion or makeup use, and milia bumps, reduce the appearance of fine lines, deeper wrinkles and darkened areas on the face. With past use I have noticed a reduction in pore size on my chin and nose. I have no wrinkles on my chin so cannot comment about their size reduction!

Using a therapeutic fruit acid blend will help manage the damaged upper layers of skin. They work by destroying the ‘glue’, which holds dead skin to the surface. As this dead skin is lifted, the other ingredients carry the individual flakes away and a water rinse neutralizes the skin. The result is a much-smoother skin surface and a more youthful appearance. A secondary benefit is fruit acid’s ability to draw moisturizers into the newly-exfoliated skin surface. It is always recommended to follow fruit acid use with a good quality moisturizer. New skin will absorb more of any product applied, both good and bad so it is best to use a natural or organic moisturizer.

Sources of Hydroxy Acids

• Alpha hydroxy acids found in fruits including lemons, strawberries and grapes;
• Malic acid comes from apples, vinegar, applesauce, cider;
• Lactic acid is found in buttermilk, yogurt, powdered skim milk, sour cream, blackberries, tomatoes;
• Tartaric acid is found in grapes, grape juice and wine;
• Glycolic acid come from sugar cane.

How often can Fruit Acids be used?

It is ideal to use Fruit Acids no more than 2-3 times a week and preferably at night. Night-time use is due to a potential increase in sun sensitivity. Your skin can be more easily sunburnt when you use fruit acids as they are revealing newer, younger skin so ensure that you use an SPF30 sunscreen during the day.

The concentration (or %) of acid needs to be above 8% to be effective. Anything below 8% will not have significant skin benefits. Devita AHA is a potent blend of all natural fruit and sugar acids (12%). The high concentration means that this product will gently help retexturize the skin.

Please note with any concentrated product it is possible to over-use and over-stress the skin. A less is more approach is recommended and more is not better in this case. Use any AHA product as directed.

Read more about Devita AHAs

Related Articles

• Skin Congestion Information Page
• Topical Ingredients for Slow Ageing

I read this blog post by Grace from Pure & Green Organics with great interest as it outlines some great Shopping Guides that help you to navigate your way through the maze of ingredients on cosmetic labels. I have personally used all of these guides and found them excellent. I particularly like the phone apps as they are portable.

Grace from Pure & Green writes: The good news is there are guides already in existence and most of them very reasonably priced, and some are even free.  I have broken the options down to the ones I have used and feel comfortable recommending &  also into three formats (1)  PC downloads you can print out (2) apps for your iphone or (3) apps for your android phone

Cosmetic Dictionary

While most cosmetic dictionaries are so bulky you couldn’t possibly bring them to the shops with you, one very clever lady named Ruth Winter has prepared her dictionary in multiple formats making life a little easier.  The book is titled “A Consumer’s Dictionary of  Cosmetic Ingredients – 7th edition” .  Here is a blurb from her about the latest edition

“Everything you need to know about the safety and efficacy of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Is it a cosmetic? A drug? A nutrient? Its becoming more and more difficult to tell the difference with the cosmetic companies combining the three. …. . So before you slather on that wrinkle-reducing cream or swallow a skin-rejuvenating vitamin, find out whats in your health and beauty products with A Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients.”

I bought her dictionary in e-book form and it does the job although the focus is on explaining the ingredients, not emphatically stating avoid this or that.

You can buy the book as an e-book or  in hard cover  (which is probably easier to navigate than the e-book) both versions cost $17.99

http://www.randomhouse.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780307459862

or as an iphone app – also $17.99

http://www.butterscotch.com/preview/692868/A-Consumers-Dictionary-Of-Cosmetic-Ingredients-7th-Edition-By-Ruth-Winter

nothing available for android phones at the moment

If $17.99 is outside your budget you could print out the free shoppers guide from the David Suzuki Foundation.  This little guide is well,  little, so it focuses on what they have called the dirty dozen, the top 12 “families” of chemicals to avoid.  It’s not as comprehensive as Ruth Winter’s book but it’s free, easy to carry and a good start.

http://www.davidsuzuki.org/publications/downloads/2010/whats-inside-shoppers-guide.pdf

Update: readers have recommended “The Chemical Maze Shopping Companion 4th edition: Your Guide to Food Additives and Cosmetic Ingredients”.  Author – Bill Statham.  This book is very small – compact enough to fit into your handbag while shopping, and is available through online booksellers for approx $16.00

Sunscreen Guides

For help in choosing a sunscreen, there is a free guide available from Friends of the Earth which you can print out.  It’s focus is on nano-free products not the overall toxicity.

http://nano.foe.org.au/safesunscreens

Environmental Working Group have produced a report into the toxicity of sunscreens, which you could access free with an iphone  app

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ewg-sunscreen-buyers-guide/id378866183?mt=8

I find a combination of the two guides is useful as they each have a different focus, it’s only by combining them that you get the whole picture.

Ed. note: Do you know of any great cosmetic resources. If so please share the love so we can all benefit! Thanks.

A bush tucker food native to the Northern Territory and Western Australia has raised the interest of a major US cosmetics giant. Last year Mary Kay cosmetics applied for an international patent on the Kakadu Plum extract to be used in skin care products. Traditionally used for food and medicine by the Mirrar people of Kakadu, this patent would create a monopoly of use for Mary Kay for up to the next 20 years. There is concern about this patent application as it may limit future use of similar extracts and indeed may exclude the use of Kakadu Plum in existing cosmetic products. The application had also angered some indigenous people as it doesn’t take into account any benefit sharing for traditional use of the plum.

Also known as Billygoat plum, the round, light green fruits are usually eaten raw or made into jam. The fruits gained increased popularity after the vitamin C content became known. Significantly the Kakadu Plum has been identified world wide as the single natural food source with the highest vitamin C content on the planet. It contains up to 3000mg of vitamin C per 100g of fruit, which is over 50 times the concentration found in oranges. In addition high levels of folate and polyphenolic antioxidants were also found.

Unfortunately, supply of high-vitamin C content Kakadu Plum may be limited. Antioxidant levels including vitamin C respond to harsh growing conditions and rise when the plant is under environmental threat which is common in wild stands of trees. Plantation crops of the fruit have lower levels of vitamin C due to irrigation and less harsh growing conditions.

The vitamin C content in particular explains why it Kakadu Plum has gained the recent interest of Mary Kay. Among other benefits Vitamin C – supports and stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces free radical damage. Significantly in the Australian climate, it also minimised photoaging. Photo-aging damage includes but is not limited to: wrinkles, dark blotches, freckles, leathery texture and loss of elasticity.

This exceptional extract can be found in the Mukti range, in particular their newly reformulated Nourishing Facial Cream as well as the divine Kakadu Plum & Honey Gel Hydrating Mask.

I have long suspected that the ”hypoallergenic” claim on cosmetic labels was a lot of twaddle. When you read the label of a product so labeled, the ingredients are so similar to standard products it hardly seems there is any difference at all. The only thing I have noted personally is that “hypoallerginc” products have no discernable scent. This would lead one to think that there were no added fragrances (artificial frangrances are the most likely ingredient to cause skin irritation) but even this isn’t the case. Subtle-smelling fragrances are often added to mask the smell of the base petroleum ingredients. So what does hypoallergenic actually mean? I found this great little article from Skin MD which outlines exactly why this term is just marketing hype:

Implicit in the term “hypoallergenic” is that these products are less likely to cause allergic reactions than other cosmetic products and that these products will be gentler or even safer for the skin than other products.

However, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration(FDA) counsels that consumers should realize that no federal standards or regulations exist governing the use of the term “hypoallergenic.” In other words, the decision as to whether or not a cosmetic may be labeled as “hypoallergenic” lies solely with the manufacturer. And, this term may be applied without any demonstration or proof that the product causes fewer allergic reactions than others. Similar ambiguity applies to the labelling of cosmetics in Australia. A search of the Australian cosmetic standard 

When labeling of cosmetics as “hypoallergenic” first became popular, the FDA attempted to regulate use of the term. In 1975, the FDA issued a regulation governing use of the term “hypoallergenic,” stating that a cosmetic product could be labeled “hypoallergenic” only if scientific studies on human subjects showed that it caused a significantly lower rate of adverse skin reactions than similar products not making such claims. The manufacturers of cosmetics claiming to be “hypoallergenic” were to be responsible for carrying out the required tests. But this regulation was subsequently declared invalid by U.S. courts, leaving manufacturers free to apply the term as they wish.

The FDA Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet notes that the ingredients used to make all cosmetic products are basically the same throughout the industry. Decades ago, harsh ingredients were sometimes used that indeed caused adverse reactions in some users, but these ingredients are no longer used in the cosmetic manufacturing process. Scientific studies demonstrating that certain products or classes of products cause fewer adverse reactions than others on the basis of “hypoallergenicity” are lacking.

The bottom line is that the term “hypoallergenic” has very little meaning and is primarily used as a marketing tool. It’s important to understand that it is impossible to guarantee that a cosmetic or skin care product will never produce an allergic reaction. Since the FDA does require that cosmetic ingredients be listed on product labels, consumers who have had allergic reactions or problems with a specific substance can avoid purchasing products that contain these substances.

Have you had any experiences with “hypoallergenic” products? Tell us what you think.

“We absorb up to 60% of what we apply to our skin” is an often cited factoid but is it actually true? Well I came across this research to show strong evidence that we do in fact absorb quite a bit of what is applied. Rates of skin absorption of contaminants in public drinking water were studied by the University of Pittsburgh Graduate School of Public Health. The study found that the skin absorbed an average of 64% of the total contaminant dosage. In another study the face was found to be 2-6x more permeable than other body surfaces such as the torso, and underarms and genitalia to be even more permeable. In fact, the underarms and genitalia showed up to a 100% absorption estimate (Kasting, 2005).

The studies showed that absorption rate varies depending on the compound. Some examples include, caffeine, which is absorbed by the skin at 48% while DDT is absorbed at 10%. Alarmingly  fragrance ingredients, showed a 100% absorption rate (Robinson et al, 2000).

So there is basis to this information and in some cases, research implications are worrisome, particularly in regard to phthalates which are found in artificial fragrances. In any case regardless of actual percentage rates, it makes sense to know the ingredients in our skin care products so we know what we are applying and absorbing. As I am sure you all know my bias, you will understand that I think natural  & organic products are the obvious choice as it immediately cuts out artificial preservatives, fragrances and color compounds that are either suspected or confirmed to be harmful to us.

Related Articles:

• Breast Cancer associated with higher concentrations of Phthalates
• Women apply up to 515 different chemicals to their skin daily

Another gem from Lisa Phipps of Remedica fame and this one speaks to me! If I am going through a bad patch i.e. not looking after my skin or health in general (NEVER! I hear you say) I find that my T-zone becomes oily but strangely underneath my skin is dehydrated. Lisa explains why this happens:

As skin gets older or as our skin metabolics changes, we tend in general to produce less natural oil. Oil or natural lipids are necessary as part of our protective surface of the skin (Acid Mantle). This protective mechanism is a combination of sebum and sweat at healthy levels that act as a barrier against pollutants but also as a defence against dehydration. Destroying that balance or “starving” the skin of a balanced natural lubrication (sebum flow) can create many other problems with the skin, from developing over active sebaceous glands thus “oily” skin, under active sebaceous glands “dehydrated” skin, rough or flaky skin, sensitised skin, contribute to tired and sallow texture as well as making the skin more vulnerable to other cell mechanics that hasten the look of wrinkles and lines.

So what oils should we consider using:

Olive, Avocado, Macadamia and Coconut oil are generally considered to be heavy on the skin. They are more likely to remain on the skin longer. While this does form a protective layer, they aren’t as readily absorbed and so may not be suitable as facial oils. However, they do make excellent body oils.

The lightest and finest facial oils are better absorbed and therefore better carriers for other fat soluble ingredients. They also supply essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to the skin cells more readily. This doesn’t mean they are better, just that they have different properties. In most cases, oil based serums will be a blend of oils, all with different benefits, healing properties, consistency and odour.

The oils listed below are in order from lightest to heaviest:

• Jojoba oil, Olive Squalene, Meadowfoam seed oil
• Evening Primrose oil
• Rosehip oil
• Apricot Kernel oil
• Sweet Almond oil
• Soyabean oil
• Avocado oil
• Wheatgerm oil
• Olive oil
• Coconut oil

Well not quite aspirin, rather white willowbark. This herbal extract has been used for centuries as an anti-inflammatory and was actually the original source for the now synthetically produced pain reliving drug aspirin. Apart from its pain-relieving effects, applied topically white willowbark has anti-acne, sebum control and exfoliation properties. The active component of white willowbark is salicylic acid, a form of beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) which works by causing skin cells to slough off, reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. The added bonus is that it also has a natural antiseptic effect thereby reducing the bacterial overgrowth often associated with acne.

In this video, the use of white willowbark is explained further by Celeste Lutrario the creator of Burt’s Bees Natural Acne Solutions.

I pride myself with being up to date with most skin care ingredients but every now and again I am caught out – thank goodness because every time I discover or rediscover a new and exciting skin care ingredient. In this case, believe it or not, it is jojoba oil. Now, it’s not that I hadn’t heard of jojoba oil before but I guess I hadn’t realised how versatile and beneficial it is for the skin.

An extract from the jojoba seed, the resultant oil is actually considered a wax ester rather than an oil. This is significant because unlike most oils (which have a myriad of different benefits), jojoba wax ester is the most similar to the sebum we naturally produce. This is significant for a number of reasons:

• Jojoba mixes with skin sebum and follows its pathways down to skin cell and skin matrix levels destroying bacteria, dissolving dried skin sebum and creating a deeply moisturising barrier across the skin that allows the transfer of gases and nutrients but holds moisture in.
• It supports the acid mantle of the skin and by doing so can trick the skin into thinking it is producing enough oil, thereby balancing out oil production.
• It is non-comedogenic and so suitable for combination skin and dry acne as well as normal to dry skin types.
• It spreads easily on the skin and absorbs well.

Like anything else, too much of a good thing can be a problem so ideally use no more than 10 drops on the skin…more may increase oil shine due to the skins inability to absorb any excess.

After a quick google search I found many excellent uses for jojoba oil:

• Moisturiser – After dispensing any facial moisturizer onto your palm, try adding a few drops of jojoba oil to make it into a super moisturizer. Flakiness will subside and the moisturizer will have an improved feel on your skin.
• Make-up remover – jojoba oil is not an eye irritant, nor allergenic so you can use it to remove eye makeup. It also easily removes foundation, blush, and lipstick.
• Lip balm – Just put a few drops on your finger and apply to lips. Lots of lip balms tend to contain comedogenic (clogs pores) ingredients, so jojoba oil is a nice alternative.
• Hair conditioner – You can mix a few drops of jojoba oil into your current conditioner or use it on its own. You can also add it to damp hair before drying or add it to dry hair to promote shine. Jojoba oil also moisturizes the scalp, helping prevent dandruff.
• Shave prep – Put a few drops of jojoba beneath your shaving cream  for a more comfortable shave. This helps prevent razor burn and leaves your skin feeling nice and soft.

View Jojoba Oil Products

Given the frequency of allergic skin reactions when I found this article by Mukti of Mukti Botanicals I thought it was excellent. It is an extensive look at how to manage skin allergies and so I have included it in full. If you have experienced allergic skin reactions at any stage I would love to hear what you did to overcome the problem or indeed if you are still trying to work out what the culprits are:

Allergies are a leading cause of chronic disease in western civilizations. With an annual cost estimated well into the tens of billions, allergies are believed to complicate and handicap the lives of millions of adults and children alike.

At some point most of us have experienced an allergic reaction or sensitivity to something in our immediate surrounds. It is unknown as to why certain individuals develop allergic sensitivities. In some cases it may take repeat exposures over a long period of time before an allergy actually develops or it could be due to a combination of certain chemicals or environmental exposure. Once you have become sensitized (allergic) your immune system “remembers” and you will continue to be sensitive to that particular ingredient. If you suffer from eczema a particular chemical may be the cause but other factors play a role as well. Whatever the case, reactions are very idiosyncratic and paradoxical in nature due to our unique biochemical makeup. Therefore it is difficult to determine and pin point the exact cause.

What we do know about allergies is that our immune system over reacts with its defence mechanisms to a familiar or unfamiliar substance with a unique response to each subsequent exposure. When our skin or system encounters an individual or combination of particular ingredients our immune system responds by accepting, rejecting or adapting to the substance. If a reaction occurs our body naturally produces histamines as a defence mechanism and to rid the body of the unwanted toxin.

A reaction to a substance can trigger a number of associated problems. Topically you may experience swelling, redness, itching, burning, rash like pimples and general irritation. Other symptoms may include sneezing, coughing, difficult or obstructed breathing and may be linked to a number of common yet serious respiratory illnesses such as asthma and sinusitis. Of greater concern is that in some cases reactions can be severe and sometimes even fatal.

Similar to our genetic predisposition such as height, eye colour and baldness, the capacity to become allergic is an inherent characteristic. Although you may be born with a genetic makeup capable of developing allergies, you may not be allergic to specific allergens. Several factors contribute and must be present for an allergic sensitivity to develop:

• Specific genes acquired from parents
• The degree and length of exposure

• Exposure to one or more allergens to which you have a genetically programmed response.

Two ingredients that are present in all mass-produced cosmetics and personal care products are fragrances and preservatives and are often thought to be the major contributors to skin problems. Fragrances whether they are synthetic or natural in origin can have a cumulative effect. Artificial fragrances can in fact be composed of more than 200 chemical constituents including known carcinogens such as methyl chloride. There is no current regulation for fragrance manufactures to disclose the ingredients or test for toxic synergies.

Preservatives are a necessary addition in skin care products. Without them moulds, bacteria and fungus would contaminate the product posing further health risks. There are now a number of efficient natural preservatives including: Citrus Extract, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Co2 rosemary extract, Gum Benzoin, Grape seed Extract, Tea Tree Extract, Silver Chloride and other patented synergies that are derived from oils and extracts that have potent anti-microbial, anti-bacterial properties. Manufacturers should be looking towards replacing commonly used broad-spectrum anti-microbial and agents and known sensitisers such as parabens (endocrine disruptors) and imidazolidinyl and diazolidinyl urea (formaldehyde releasers).

Dermal reactions are different from food intolerances; however diet does play a major role in the integrity of our skin. Ingested allergens should be independently assessed. Just because you are unable to consume nuts for example does not necessarily mean that you will have a negative reaction to a topical application of a known culprit.

Determining Factors:

• A change of medication or commenced taking prescriptive drugs that may cause hypersensitivity
• Age: The younger you are the more intolerant your system may be as compared to a forty year old. Conversely an adult may suddenly develop an adverse reaction to a familiar product due to the accumulative levels of environmental toxins that can hinder our natural resistance to some chemicals. Ed note: this is why you can develop a skin reaction to your moisturiser “overnight” after 6 months of hassle-free use.
• Hormonal changes such as the onset of puberty, pregnancy or menopause
• Stress or illness

What can you do?

• Determine that you are actually dealing with an allergy or sensitizing reaction to a product and not a skin disorder. It is best to see your doctor or health care professional.
• Ascertain what ingredient/s or product/s is causing the problem and discontinue use. This can be done through a process of elimination and can be managed by a qualified health care practitioner
• Whilst you are combating a reaction avoid using any other skin irritants and abrasive substances over the affected area
• Avoid saunas – heat, steam, sweating and rubbing the affected area can re-trigger a reaction
• If you do experience a severe allergic reaction in the form of hives, swollen eyes and skin and tingling red patches, consult your doctor or health care practitioner for alternative options
• If after 4-6 weeks symptoms continue it is advisable to see a dermatologist for an accurate evaluation

• Unfortunately there is no definitive list of ingredients to avoid due to the limitless combinations of cosmetic formulations
• Pay close attention to what you use. Read the ingredient listing thoroughly and use fewer products. Avoid products that contain fragrance, perfume or parfum. As there are literally hundreds of fragrances it is easier to avoid all fragrances rather than to do specific testing.
• Hypoallergenic products and those marked “fragrance free” may still contain fragrances. Avoid products labeled as “unscented perfumes”
• Wear gloves when using household cleaning products
• Avoid products that have been preserved with parabens, Imidazolidinyl, Diazolidinylurea (Germaben II) etc
• Be aware of skin-to-skin transfer from topical applications on those that you may come into close contact with e.g. clothes washing detergents
• Specific epidermal and intra-dermal skin testing can assist with defining sensitivity to particular allergens
• Avoid aerosol products
• Contact the manufacturer if you are unsure if a particular allergen or sensitiser is included in a product. Not all manufacturers disclose their full ingredient list.
• If you know that you are prone to chemical sensitivities, patch test a small amount of the product on the inside of your forearm. Cover and leave for twenty-four hours. If you experience a reaction discontinue use.

Not only do cosmetics and personal care products alter the energy and well being of our skin, equally important is what we put into our bodies. How we think and feel also plays a determining role in the health of external appearance.

With correct management and education allergic responses can be controlled and eliminated enabling individuals with allergies to lead normal and productive lives. Fortunately more responsible companies are manufacturing veritably natural products that are free from harmful and synthetic toxic chemicals.

Well I don’t know about you but as the weather warms up in Brisbane I have started to feel the burn from the sun again. As one with very pale and easily burnt skin, this is not a pleasant sensation and so I have been reaching for the sunscreen bottle with greater frequency. Unfortunately there is so much misconception and misinformation surrounding sunscreens, nanoparticles, SPF and UV absorbers and blockers so by way of explaination, the next few blogs will address these issues. This by article Tess Dingle ND goes a long way towards this purpose:

SUNSCREENS…The good, the bad and the ugly

by Tess Dingle ND

There is much misinformation and hype surrounding the topic of suntanning, burning, cancer and sunscreens. In this issue we will attempt to decode the catchphrases and steer you in the right direction.

The most obvious and important issue is that in Australia we enjoy a climate which sends us outdoors for much of the year and we are living under one of the thinnest sections of the earth’s protective ozone layer. It is well established that the UV radiation that beats down on us is harsher and more direct than in many other parts of the world. So what is this UV radiation and what are its effects?

UV or ultraviolet radiation is classified into three different wavelengths of light. Two of these wavelengths, referred to as UVA and UVB radiation, affect our skin. UVC radiation is largely absorbed by gases in the Earth’s atmosphere and does not reach our skin. While both UVA and UVB can cause DNA changes within the layers of our skin, it is predominantly UVA which causes the most common forms of skin cancer (melanomas) and accelerates the visible signs of aging. UVB predominantly causes burning. The purpose of a sunscreen is (or should be!) to
reduce the severity of UVA and UVB affecting our skin negatively (sunlight is also constructive for several biochemical processes, including our production of vitamin D and the regulation of our sleep – or circadian rhythm – obviously, it was once natural to spend time in the sun).

However, not all sunscreens achieve this. When you buy sunscreen you most likely look for the SPF number (Sun Protection Factor), but what does this number refer to? It indicates the length of time you can stay in the sun without burning relative to your normal burn time if you apply the sunscreen first. For example, if you would normally burn after one hour of exposure to sunlight and the SPF of the sunscreen you are using is 15, then technically you can stay in the sun for 15 hours before burning. This can be incredibly misleading. It means that the sunscreen guarantees to block out UVB radiation 15 times no protection but in fact there are no guarantees regarding UVA radiation, ie. radiation that causes melanoma.

Ed note: There is some confusion about the difference between say a 15 or 30 SPF rating and in the US even a 50 SPF rating. A higher SPF doesn’t necessarily mean better protection. To explain:

• SPF 2 blocks: 50%
• SPF 8 blocks: 86%
• SPF 15 blocks: 92%
• SPF 30 blocks: 96%

SPF 8-15: Is sufficient to give your skin ideal protection against the harmful effects of light for normal exposure to the sun like at home, at the office, in the city, day to day errands, but the more sun you are exposed to (an entire day at the beach, for instance) the higher the SPF should be to give your skin optimal protection. Higher than SPF 30 only jumps up 1-2% and no sunscreen give you complete protection.

If you feel safe staying in the sun for longer and there is no protection against UVA radiation in the sunscreen, skin cancer risk could be 15 times higher than normal. Queensland has the highest incidence of skin cancers in the world. Have we all been misled by the sunscreen marketing?

According to the American Food and Drug Administration website, no system yet exists to rate UVA protection. You must also reapply sunscreens after sweating or swimming unless the product states “water resistant”, meaning the SPF stands even after exposure to water.

So let’s look at the sunscreen ingredients themselves. Generally, sunscreen ingredients are divided into their modes of activity. They are either UV absorbers or UV reflectors or have a combined action. UV absorbers physically contain the UV radiation to stop it from reaching our skin. In this process, the active particles become energised to a higher energetic level (or frequency) to contain the UV radiation. This is the key to the problems with this type of sunscreen ingredient.
When UV exposure reduces (when you come out of the sun), the energetic level of the sunscreen particles drops to their former frequency, releasing energy again. The energy is released into the epidermis of your skin where it can then cause changes to the DNA, predisposing the skin to cancer.

UV reflectors work by scattering UV light so it cannot penetrate the skin. Generally, this process depends on the physical size of the sunscreen particles. Hence, application of these ingredients is usually thicker and opaque. It is the UV reflectors which are most effective at blocking UVA radiation. The possible downside of UV reflectors, apart from (or because of) the thick application necessary is that they tend to plug the pores of the skin which can produce miliaria, a consequence of blocked sweat glands. Due to both modes of action, all sunscreens need to be washed from the skin thoroughly once you have come out of the sun.

The next blog will identify which sunscreen agents are commonly in use and how to assess them. Below is a videoblog that covers off some of the issues above as well at looking at some other common issues with sunscreens:

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