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Do you ever wonder why no matter how much sleep you get, the dark circles under your eyes never seem to get any better? Or why your cheeks are flushed even in winter? Or even why you seem to get blackheads on your nose and can’t get rid of them no matter what topical creams you use? These issues are actually signs that your body is giving you, and using facial analysis, you can work out what the root cause of your dark circles and flushed cheeks and finally do something about it.

From Greek medicine to Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), facial analysis has been used as an indication of the health of the organs or to provide useful clues as to the systems involved in any health issue. In particular TCM has a detailed map of the face including lines, organ zones and colour indications. Using TCM facial analysis principles with relation to skin conditions, the map and colours of the face can help indicate the underlying causes and support the choice of treatment.

Skin conditions that affect the face such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and acne don’t usually affect the entire surface of the face. The affected areas are often confined to particular areas or zones so just by looking at your face you can find out more about the underlying cause of any skin condition. This technique is not confined to skin conditions. It can also be used as a tool to assess wellbeing or to improve skin tone in general.

As a guide, go over each zone of the face and look for any changes in colour (from your normal skin tone), deep lines (that aren’t part of the normal aging process), congestion (pimples, blackheads, milia, whiteheads) or puffiness. Below is a guide to the key areas of the face and their associated organs. Included are key indications about lines and colours that provide additional information.

Facial Zone	Organ or System
Forehead	In descending order down the forehead: Bladder, Large  Intestine, Small Intestine. Usually lines across the forehead reflect an imbalance. Congestion or acne in this area represents digestive congestion and possibly poor detoxification. Red and dry or flaky skin is an indication of lack of fluids in the digestive tract.
Between the Eyes	This is the liver zone. A red patch between the eyes is a possible indication of poor liver detoxification and even heavy metal toxicity (particularly mercury). Vertical lines in this zone indicate Liver imbalance.
Under the Eyes	The top of the eye and directly below the eyes is the kidney zone. Puffiness and fluid retention in this area is a sign the body is holding on to too much fluid (watery and swollen with a blue tinge) or is mucus congested (fatty and swollen with a yellow tinge). Salt intake should be monitored, as should excessive sugary drinks such as fruit juice and soft drink. To reduce mucus congestion, reduce fat and dairy consumption.Blue circles or white under the eyes indicates tiredness or even exhaustion. A yellow tinge shows the liver and gallbladder are working too hard. Dry, flaky or red skin in the creases above the eye shows liver stress.
The Nose	The nose tip corresponds to the lungs while the bridge reflects the health of the stomach. Congestion in the form of blackheads usually represents poor stomach digestion and possibly low hydrochloric acid levels.If the nose is red or has broken capillaries, this usually indicates excessive intake of heating liquids including alcohol, coffee and tea.
The Cheeks	Represent the respiratory & circulatory systems. Pimples or congestion in this area are often the result of a high fat and mucus forming diet (simple sugar, dairy and processed foods).Pale cheeks may be a sign of low iron levels whereas overly flushed cheeks show poor circulation and the consumption of too many hot foods such as alcohol, coffee and spices and poor elimination. A greenish tinge indicates liver congestion.
The Mouth	Generally represents the digestive function. White or very pale lips may indicate low iron levels and poor circulation. Dry flaky skin or wrinkles can indicate dehydration.Cracks or sores in the corners of the mouth are signs of low B vitamin or iron levels. Red, hot or bleeding gums are a sign of a hot or over-acidic stomach and so animal fats, simple sugars and heating food & drink needs to be avoided.
The Chin	Corresponds to the kidneys and digestive system. Once again congestion in this area can be a sign of a diet high in processed foods, sugars and fats. It can also indicate unbalanced kidney function, which is usually the result of pushing the body by working too hard, stress or going beyond normal physical endurance.
The Jaw and under the jaw line	Often a hormonal influence, particularly if worsens in accordance with monthly cycles. Cysts rather than pimples may indicate lymphatic toxicity, which may result from medications, environmental toxins or a highly processed and sugar rich diet.

Every day we are exposed to air pollution, sunlight, smoke and more all which give rise to the production of “free radicals”.  Damage to our DNA, protein (collagen & elastin) and protein remodeling (skin healing) are all side effects of the production of free radicals. Internally the metabolism, the effects of stress and emotions and the result of everyday body process that utilize oxygen all create free radicals. Externally ultraviolet light from the sun and environmental stressors such as smoking, pollution, poor dietary habits and chemical exposure also contribute. The production of free radicals and the damage they cause is one of the key mechanisms of aging.  As one ages, the skin’s structural foundation weakens. Specifically, collagen which keeps the skin firm and elastin which maintains elasticity and helps prevent the skin from sagging. Free radicals attack your skin’s collagen and elastin layers, accelerating the creation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Skin-aging caused by free radicals occurs over time however, the damaging effect of free radicals is exacerbated in the presence of an antioxidant

deficiency which can accelerate this process considerably. Consider for example the skin of a smoker aged 40 years compared to a non-smoker. In this case, the antioxidant defenses of the skin are far outweighed by the production of free radicals as a byproduct of the daily cigarette habit. Much research has been done with regard to the benefits of antioxidants to combat the production of free radicals. Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals that harm the cells, causing damage and premature aging. Specifically antioxidants help to maintain the health of the skin cells such as collagen and elastin which keeps skin supple.

There are two ways to slow the effects of free radical damage on the skin:

Reduce the production of free radicals. You can’t really do much

about reducing free radical product that is the byproduct of everyday bodily processes however you can reduce your exposure to the environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution, chemicals and poor dietary habits. So the key advice such as minimizing exposure to midday sun and giving up smoking apply here.

Improve your antioxidant status. The neutralizing effects of antioxidants don’t prevent the effects of free radical damage however ensuring that your antioxidant status is optimal will certainly slow skin aging. Antioxidants can be increased internally and topically by:

1. Eating plenty of antioxidant rich foods – colourful fruit, vegetables and wholegrains are excellent sources of antioxidants. Key antioxidant rich foods for the skin include mangosteen, turmeric, green tea and berries of any kind.
2. 

   Antioxidant Supplements can help top up your levels

   Antioxidant Supplementation – specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids (green tea and grapeseed), exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin and help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health.

3. Topical antioxidants – provide some protection against environmental damage to the skin and may help slow down skin aging. However, the effectiveness of topical antioxidants depends on a number of factors including skin permeability, the concentration of the antioxidant and the other ingredients in the cream and whether they are water or fat soluble among other things. Also keep in mind that just because an ingredient is an antioxidant, doesn’t mean that it will be effective for slowing skin aging and indeed that different antioxidants have different effects on the skin. Some of the more effective topical antioxidants that have been researched thus far include:

• Vitamin C – supports and stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces free radical damage
• Vitamin E – assists with skin healing, protects cellular membranes which helps maintain the health of the skin cell
• Green tea – reduces erythema and the effects of ultraviolet radiation, anti-inflammatory effects.
• Betacarotene & Carotenes – helps minimise sun damage
• Vitamin A (as retinoic acid) – increase synthesis of collagen, reducing fine wrinkles, improve skin texture and increase skin thickness
• Coenzyme Q10 – improving the cells ability to produce new collagen. It also increases the ability of the cell to minimise damage from free radical production.
• Lipoic acid – inhibit cross-linking which contributes to the ageing process

Whether in our diet, as supplements or topically applied, antioxidant play an important role in slowing down the aging process. Of course to get the best effect it is important to consider all three delivery methods. In addition, minimising your exposure to the environmental factors that cause free radical production, will significantly add to slowing the aging process, not just of your skin, but of your whole body.

Have you ever looked in the mirror the morning of a big event only to discover a huge pimple or noticed that your skin is unusually red and blotchy? Don’t stress, it will only make it worse! It could actually be the case that stress was the trigger for your breakout in the first place. Stress affects our lives in all ways, some motivational and positive, others subtle and more insidious. While not historically recognised as a contributing factor in skin conditions, there is now growing body of evidence to show that stress has potentially harmful effects on the skin. From acne to eczema research shows us that during times of acute stress, rashes and breakouts become worse, sometimes significantly so. It also points to the potential role of chronic low-grade stress as a causative factor in persistent skin conditions.

Stress can affect our appearance in a number of ways including increased perspiration, brittle nails, dry, thinning hair and sensitive more reactive skin. Where there is an existing skin condition, worsening can be seen in the following ways:

• Acne lesions and breakouts become more inflamed, last longer and take longer to heal
  

  Stress causes skin changes

• Worsening of the inflammation (redness) and dryness in eczema and rosacea
• Increased tendency to flushing and blushing
• Increased incidence of congestion and oily skin due to sebum production
• Increased sensitivity to irritants and infections agents

These effects are primarily caused by the impact of stress on skin permeability. In most chronic skin conditions there is an abnormality in the skin’s permeability barrier. The body responds by trying to repair the barrier and in the process initiates an inflammatory process in the deeper layers of the skin with the result of worsening skin symptoms. Even in people without existing skin conditions, stress has the ability to reduce skin permeability and increase dehydration and sensitivity. This may go some way to explaining why some people react to certain topical agent only some of the time; generally skin permeability is normal however during times of stress it is affected leaving skin more vulnerable to irritation.

When exposed to stress, hormonal and chemical levels increase. Hormones in the brain trigger the release of adrenalin and norepinephrine, creating the classic flight or fight response – our body’s are readying for an emergency, which most of the time doesn’t occur. Glucocorticoids are also released from the adrenal glands, and when stress is ongoing it leads to the decrease in skin barrier function. Interestingly, while a decreased barrier function often causes water loss, increased oil production can also occur due to the role of stress in the disruption of normal hormonal balance and an increase in substance P. So yes it is possible to have moisture dehydrated skin and be oily (usually through the T-zone) at the same time.

In addition to stress directly affecting skin permeability, chronic stress can also affect the functioning of the immune system. Stress down regulates the immune system making us more susceptible to infection. It also plays havoc with skin conditions that have immune involvement such as psoriasis, eczema, cold sores and shingles, most commonly causing worsening skin condition. Stressed individuals are also more likely to eat and sleep less healthily or be more likely to drink more alcohol further suppressing the immune system.

So how does stress reduction help with the treatment of skin conditions? Firstly, it helps by decreasing the release of

pro-inflammatory hormones, which results in less inflammation, redness and rash like symptoms. It also reduces blood vessel hyper-activity resulting in less frequent skin flushing, which is particularly important in rosacea. Time will see an improvement in skin permeability, which means greater hydration and less sensitivity. Oiliness will improve as hormones settle back to normal. This may take up to 3 months. Reducing stress will result overall in better condition both for those with existing skin disorders as well as those with normal skin.

Taking the time to incorporate some simple stress reducing techniques into your daily routine will help improve the condition of your skin:

• Avoid excessive consumption of stimulants such as coffee and soft drink. One caffeine-containing drink per day is ample. For those that are particularly sensitive, drink green tea instead of coffee.
• Exercise can significantly reduce stress levels. The release of endorphins following exercise increases feelings of
  

  Rob's Satsang - singing meditation

  happiness and wellbeing. In addition it increases circulation and therefore nutrition to your extremities, including your skin.

• Meditation or breathing techniques. Meditation reduces cortisol release and increases immune function – ideal if you are suffering from a skin condition. If you are a beginner, take a class in Buteko breathing or follow a guided meditation.
• Alcohol and smoking suppress the immune system. Smoking has many detrimental effects on the skin and so is best avoided completely. In moderation, alcohol consumption may help reduce stress however it is a fine and individual line, so stick to physician guidelines – one standard drink per day for women and two for men.  In addition, try to go without at least 2 days per week.

Check out our natural solutions to dehydrated and sensitive skin.

Related Articles:

Why Me – Sensitive Skin Solutions

Topical Ingredients by Skin Type

Natural Solutions for Dehydrated Skin

Is your skin ready for summer? Summer is a time for sun, increased exercise and outdoor activity. After months of jackets and long pants, our skin needs a little bit of care before exposure to the Australian Summer sun. Advance preparation is a good idea before you pull out your summer clothing and expose your skin. Follow these guidelines so you are ready to smartly and safely enjoy the sun and make the most of your skin this season.

• Moisture is essential

It is important to remember that skin behaves differently from season to season and so your skin care routine should change to suit the difference in weather. In many parts of Australia there are effectively only 2 seasons: dry and humid. Our skin reacts dramatically to changes in humidity and so using the same skin care routine all year round will not help maintain well hydrated skin.

As the humidity rises in summer so does the moisture content in our skin. This is great for those who tend to dry or dehydrated skin types. Skin will feel more supple and hydrated. For those with normal to oily skin, you will notice that oil production increases in the warmer months and if not careful, skin congestion may increase.

During the summer months all skin types require lighter moisturisers. It is best to avoid moisturisers rich in waxes and butters and favour lighter lotions as these will provide adequate moisture content without causing congestion. Depending on skin type, it is also a good idea to change your cleanser from a cream cleanser to a light foaming cleanser or gel (avoid cleansers containing sodium laurel suphate) as they tend to more effective for removing built up sebum (oil) as well as daily grime and pollution.

For those with normal to oily skin, use cleansing masks and gentle exfoliation to reduce the likelihood of blocked pores and congestion. For those with dehydrated skin use a night oil based serum followed by a lighter day moisturiser. This will ensure adequate skin hydration without resorting to heavy creams more suited to the cooler, drier months.

Remember, part of an effective skin care routine includes changing to suit the seasons.

• Remove Dead Skin Cells

In winter, our skin is largely covered up and so we tend to give it less care and attention. For this reason, summer skin preparation should always include full body exfoliation. Our bodies shed dead skin cells constantly which his results in a layer of dead skin cells. This layer of cells leaves your skin looking dull, dry and sometimes scaly. Applying moisturisers won’t help create glowing skin unless you remove the dead top layer and in fact, moisturisers won’t even penetrate the skin effectively until the dead cells are removed.

To exfoliate your skin effectively you can use an exfoliation mitt in the shower, a dry skin brush or a body scrub. Use a gentle circular motion on your entire body from the shoulders down and once complete, rinse clean (use a specific face exfoliator for your face and neck). Follow with moisturiser. Continue once or twice a week throughout the summer season and it will help maintain fresh, glowing skin.

• Slip slop slap

The best anti-aging advice you will ever hear is to wear sunscreen. And yet, on any summer’s day at the beach you will still see Australians baking themselves under the harsh midday sun. If you want a glowing tan during summer there are alternative ways to achieve this look without damaging your skin. We will look at these options below. Firstly, when it comes to preventing sun damage there are some important things to remember:

• When buying sunscreen, the Sun Protection Factor measures how effectively the product limits exposure to UVB rays. The higher the SPF, the more protection against UVB rays. Choose an SPF 30+. If you spend time in the midday Australian sun and use any less than SPF 30 and you risk damaging your skin. This causes both an increased risk of sun cancer as well as promoting accelerated skin aging.
• Apply sunscreen evenly all over your face and the exposed parts of your body. While it may sounds obvious, we often miss bits or spread the lotion too thinly over our skin to provide effective protection.
• By the time you feel the heat of the sun, your skin is already burning so apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go out into the sun.
• There are a number of natural sunscreen alternatives now available. These products use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide based sunfilters which sit on the surface of the skin rather than being absorbed.
• Most importantly, don’t forget to wear a hat and cover up with light coloured clothing. Sunscreen lotions will do part of the job at protecting your skin but remember, they are not filtering UVA rays so you need to stay sun smart and keep your skin protected.

A glowing tan is something that many Australians aspire to but in reality you are best to learn to love the colour of skin you were born with. There is no such thing as healthy tanning, however, if you plan to be out in the sun this summer, slowly introducing your skin to the sun is a good idea. Sun exposure in the early mornings and late afternoons allows your skin to gradually build up some colour without burning. Twenty minutes is enough time. Remember by the time your skin starts to feel hot, it is already burnt.

Faking it! If you decide to use fake tan, choose a natural one. In the last few years a number of all natural fake tanning lotions have emerged on the market and provide a healthier skin choice than synthetic chemical products. If you choose to fake tan, remember that you still need to apply sunscreen!

• Drink plenty of Water

Water is essential for not only providing hydration to our internal organs but also for maintaining skin hydration. Increased sweating, exercise and outdoor activities mean that in the warmer months we can dehydrate quite quickly. By the time you register that you feel thirst, it is likely that you are already slightly dehydrated. The best way to avoid this is to sip water throughout the day ensuring your fluid levels are being continuously topped up. Invest in a good quality water bottle (avoid soft plastic as it leaches chemicals into the water) and take it with you so that you always have water on hand. Adequate hydration is an essential way to maintain skin vitality.

• Nutrition

During the warmer months, we tend to want less hot, stodgy food and prefer lighter meals such as fresh fruit, salads, wraps, juices. When we eat, our body temperature increases and warm food will add to this effect. Raw and fresh foods will help keep us cooler during the summer months. Concentrate on colourful fruit and vegetables, lean protein and good oils as the basis of your summer eating. Not only are these foods ideal for the skin, supplying essential antioxidants and reducing inflammation, they are also sources of essential nutrition for the rest of your body.

• Supplements for Skin health

There are a number of supplements that help provide optimal nutrition and maintain skin health year around…and not just during the summer months!

Beta-carotene – is the orange pigment found in carrots and green leafy vegetables. It is a powerful antioxidant and research has shown that it can help minimise the effect of certain free radicals induced by UV radiation from sunlight. Regular consumption of beta-carotene or beta-carotene rich foods can help to reduce skin aging from sun exposure. Dosage recommendation: 30mg Beta-carotene or mixed carotenoids per day.

Zinc – a deficiency of zinc can lead to skin problems and delayed wound healing. Zinc is essential for the cell division and protein synthesis so helps maintain skin integrity and resilience. Unless you have a skin condition or have low zinc levels, the zinc provided in an everyday multivitamin should be enough to support skin health (about 5-10mg per day)

Fish Oil – helps to maintain skin suppleness and elasticity as well as keeping a check on inflammatory processes. It is particularly useful to help manage inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and dry skin in general. For skin conditions 4-6g of fish oil per day is required. For maintenance and to help minimise dry skin, 1-2g per day is sufficient.

Grapeseed Extract – another powerful skin antioxidant, research shows that grapeseed extract enhances capillary strength and vascular function, reduces allergic and inflammatory responses in the skin and also reduces skin aging and the loss of elasticity. Dosage recommendation is 6-12g of Grapeseed extract per day.

Vitamin C – is an important antioxidant, quenching free radicals that cause skin aging. Vitamin C is also essential for collagen synthesis. Collagen provides the foundation matrix for cartilage, epethielial skin cells and connective tissue. When applied to the skin, Vitamin C stimulates cell renewal, collagen and elastin production and increases healthy circulation. Suggested dosage: 1000mg per day or as a topical application.

Summer is a time for fun in the sun. You can stay sun smart this summer and with these tips you can maintain healthy skin throughout the season.

This question about cellulite is from a reader and so I did some research and here is what my research turned up:

Orange peel skin is a skin issue that up to 80% of women have to contend with. Most commonly seen in the bottom and thighs cellulite affects women with varying degrees of “dimpliness” and associated body image distress. It is possible to minimise the appearance of cellulite, however, the treatment requires more than just use of a miracle cream and can take time to have an effect.

Cellulite occurs in the subcutaneous layer, which is top layer of fat just under the skin surface. Between the subcutaneous layer and the dermis there is net of fiberous connective tissue, the septae, which stores fat cells in compartments. Due to decreases in microcirculation and increases in fluid retention and blood pooling the septae become less flexible and pressure builds up pushing the fat cells against the skin. With time, the septae become a fiberous honeycomb structure that traps the fat cells causing the large bumps that are the hallmark of cellulite. The area has very poor blood supply, which is why the skin where cellulite occurs often feels cold to touch and poor lymphatic flow so is not easily removed by diet and exercise.

The cause of cellulite is not clear-cut. The common triggers are as mentioned above, are poor microcirculation and lymphatic flow however, what causes these changes in the first place is the issue. Genetics certainly plays a role with those susceptible to cellulite having an increased number of fat cells, poor tissue integrity including blood vasculature and lymphatic vessels and hormonal sensitivities.

Hormonal issues are strongly indicated with the balance between androgens and estrogens being indicated. Men with low androgen levels are more likely to develop cellulite. Estrogen is the likely driver in women, with higher levels promoting the growth of fat cells around the breast, thighs and buttocks.

A sedentary lifestyle may contribute to a worsening appearance of cellulite, as it is associated with weight gain, which can increase the pressure of the fats cells protruding into the dermis. It is important to note however, that excess weight is

not the cause of cellulite and it is equally found in individuals of normal and low weight, as it is those that are overweight. On the other hand exercise encourages the flow of lymph (removing waste products) and circulation (supplying nutrition) and may improve the appearance of cellulite.

There are no proven treatments for cellulite however stimulating the dormant, subcutaneous fat to be more active and encouraging its re-absorption back into the body metabolism may assist. This incorporates improving local blood and lymph flow to the area. In addition increasing the elasticity of skin will mean it is better able to cope better with increased fat volume.

Most topical products aimed at treating cellulite contain cellular metabolism stimulants. Some examples include carnitine, cayenne and caffeine all of which theoretically increase lipolisis (fat metabolism). Some also include ingredients that increase skin tissue integrity by promoting lymph or blood flow such as rosemary oil, gotu kola or horse chestnut or decrease fluid retention such as birch oil. The most popular by far are caffeine containing creams which are based on the effect of caffeine to promote lymphatic drainage from tissues thereby removing fluid retention and increasing lipolysis (cellular metabolism) which promote breakdown of cellular fat. While potentially effective in theory, no research backs up the effectiveness of caffeine for the treatment of cellulite so before you rush out to buy a cream, try massaging the coffee grains from your morning cup into cellulite affected skin each day and see what happens. If too messy and you do choose to work with a topical product, choose one that contains both cellular metabolism stimulants and improves the integrity of the skin. (Ed note: I couldn’t find any good natural cellulite creams so please comment and let us know at vitaleblog if you have used one)

Other topical treatments that may assist include massage and skin brushing the area affected by cellulite, which help to stimulate both the lymphatic system and the microcirculation. Done daily, dry skin brushing will improve the overall appearance of the skin as it also helps remove the top layer of dead skin cells.

Using dietary measures to improve cellular health will not only make you feel better, it may well help you to reduce cellulite. However no specific diets have research to support anti-cellulite claims. That being said many are associated with a reduction in the key factors that promote of cellulite such as inflammation, poor microcirculation, connective tissue weakness and sluggish fat metabolism. Reducing dairy and sugar consumption seems to have the greatest effect on minimizing the appearance of cellulite. Both dairy and sugar are associated with inflammation and dairy is high in saturated fats, which can impact microcirculation and fat metabolism. (I haven’t yet found a better resource about dietary concerns than Karen Fischer’s book The Healthy Skin Diet). A diet high in good oils, whole grains, fruit & vegetables and water will minimize the key cellulite triggers as well as improve cellular health and general wellbeing.

If all else fails and you have an emergency trip to the beach, fake tan can help temporarily reduce the appearance of cellulite as can a good pair of swimmers (I wear these Vintage-style swimmers and love the cover they provide) and some board shorts or a sarong. Try to use a fake tan based on natural ingredients such as betacarotene as this will minimise the use of chemicals that may in fact contribute to cellular toxicity.  And remember most of all to focus on your best assets and the parts of the body that you do love because above all, confidence in yourself is attractive.

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In part 2 of this topic, Karen Fischer from her book The Healthy Skin Diet discusses how to measure body acidity or alkalinity and importantly how to shift the balance from acid to a more alkaline system.

How is body acidity or alkalinity measured?

Your body has a natural acid and alkaline balance which is measured by the traditional pH scale (pH literally means ‘potential for hydrogen’). For example, a pH of 1.0 is completely acid and a pH of 14 is all alkaline, and 7.0 is neutral. The pH of a substance is determined by how many hydrogen ions are in a substance. All acids in the body give off hydrogen ions as they dissolve in water.

Now, for the body to remain alive and well the blood needs to be slightly alkaline — at a pH of 7.365 to be precise. If your blood pH becomes slightly acidic your blood would burn holes in your blood vessels. As you can imagine, you can’t feel healthy if you have holes in your veins. In fact, if the blood pH was to vary by about one-tenth, your body’s biomechanical function would fail and you’d die. However the body, being the wise thing that it is, has many back-up plans to ensure the blood’s pH balance is maintained:

1. The body uses its alkaline reserves such as alkaline minerals to keep the blood pH at the correct level. If you keep having an acid lifestyle, these stores run out and your body needs to go to back-up plan number 2 …

2. Back-up plan number 2 involves quickly removing excess acids from your blood and storing them safely in your fat cells. Unfortunately, overweight people who have heaps of acid stored in their fat usually have an incredibly difficult time losing weight because their body will do everything to avoid the influx of acid that would be released during weight-loss. An acidic body holds onto excess weight, making dieting extremely difficult.

3. After your body uses up its alkaline reserves and after it has stored acids in your fat, what happens next? Back-up plan number 3: your body takes

alkaline minerals such as calcium from your bones. This is one of the reasons why people getosteoporosis and shrink as they get older. Their acid lifestyle is threatening to disrupt their blood pH and the body is protecting the blood by leeching calcium from their bones. Unfortunately the modern Western diet is excessively acidic. There are two ways you can find out how acidic you are.

Firstly (and this is the more accurate way), your doctor can test your blood pH with a simple blood test. You need to ask for this test specifically as it is not a routine blood test. A healthy pH reading for your blood is between 7.35 and 7.45; as you can see it’s a very narrow range.

Secondly, you can test your saliva or urine pH with pH strips that you can purchase from your local pharmacy. These pH strips are made of litmus paper, which changes colour when acidic or alkaline substances come into contact with it. Dr Guerrero, a famous American doctor who studied traditional Chinese medicine and is the author of In Balance for Life, recommends testing the urine rather than saliva as the kidneys are one of the body’s organs that eliminate acids. However the urine test is not as accurate as a blood test but it can reveal if you’re acidic and you can do the test daily. This is useful because acid and base (alkalinity) levels fluctuate daily. When your body’s pH is in balance, your urine pH will be between 7.0 and 7.5.5

Cross-check your results from the first blog by doing a pH urine test for five days in a row (to get a more accurate average). Do the urine test first thing in the morning, on rising.

What causes excess acidity in the body?

• acid-forming foods, poor diet
• stress (covered in Chapter 10)
• coffee and other products containing caffeine
• alcohol
• smoking
• chemicals
• dehydration/not enough water
• parasites (worms)
• candida albicans
• drugs, including prescriptive medications
• constipation/poor bowel health.

Acid-forming foods

There are many types of acid-producing foods and the most common ones come from animal produce. Now these foods don’t seem acidic before you

pop them in your mouth — they contain some acids but they also form acids once they’re digested. Acid-forming foods are okay in moderation but when your body is continually trying to counteract an acidic state, acid can become poison to your system.

When you have an acidic system, your body will eventually tire of shunting calcium away from your bones and storing acid in your fat. And if you’re a thin person, with limited fat cells, then you’re in a worse predicament than an overweight person.

Where is your acid being stored? As you can imagine, skinny people can get sick very, very quickly. This means that Skinny-Minnies need to be extra healthy to feel great and have beautiful skin. You can probably guess most of the common acid-forming foods as they’re also the usual ‘offending’ foods that already have bad reputations, such as sugar, white flour products, foods high in saturated fats and damaged (trans) fats, meat, dairy, soft drinks, chips and alcohol. But what you may find surprising is that when you chomp on a piece of fruit, it creates acid during digestion. This is because most fruits have an extremely high sugar content. Yes, these are natural sugars but they promote acidity and they provide a quick and easy meal for thriving microbes.

Acid-forming foods — the worst offenders

vinegar	liquor/spirits/whiskey
pork	beef
processed fruit juice	yellow cheese
milk kefir	yoghurt sweetened with fruit
sugar & artificial sweetener	carp
processed meat/ham/devon	crayfish
herring	salmon
lobster	mackerel
black tea	artificial sweeteners
sugar	chocolate/cocoa
coffee	milk
soft drinks	tap water
wine	hydrogenated fats
peanut & walnut oils	commercially made tomato sauce
pickles & mustard	processed table salt
chickpeas	peanuts
hazelnuts	pecans
sunflower seeds	walnuts
pstachios	blackcurrants
kiwi fruit	mandarins
oranges	pineapple
milled	white rice
white flour products	white/yeast breads

Acid-forming foods — the milder ones

Beer	Wholegrains, wholewheat
Amaranth	Brown rice
Oats	Barley
Qunoa	Spelt
Soft cheeses	Eggs (whole)
plain organic yoghurt	chicken
flounder	lamb
oysters	kidney beans
Trout	sole
lentils	peas
cashews	coconut
pine nuts	sesame seeds
apples	fresh apricots
blueberries	cherries
figs	grapes
mangoes	watermelon, melon
pears	plums
pomegranates	strawberries
most dried fruits	carbonated mineral water
(heated) cold pressed oils	organic mustard

READER QUESTION

Q ‘I’ve heard that acid-forming foods are bad for me. Do I have to totally avoid them to be healthy?’

A No! The foods and liquids that exert the strongest acid-producing effect can be enjoyed in moderation. However, during the Healthy Skin Diet these substances will be strictly limited to no more than three serves per day. Two serves is two glasses of alcohol or one coffee and salmon or chickpeas for dinner. Keep your animal protein serves small — about the size of the palm of your hand — especially if you’re eating meat.

Keep it in balance aiming for a 50:50 ratio of acidic to alkaline forming foods.

Foods that are mildly alkalising:

Asparagus	Cauliflower
Garlic	Onions, shallots
radishes	endives
turnips	egg yolk
whey (fresh)	brazil nuts
avocado	bananas
grapefruit	tomatoes (uncooked)
dates	raisins
almond milk	herbal teas
natural mineral water (non-carbonated)	spring or filtered water
butter, buttermilk	cold pressed olive oil (unheated)
herbs & spices	sea salt (unrefined)

Foods that are strongly alkalising:

Most vegetables	Dark leafy greens
Artichoke	Beets, beet greens
Broccoli	Carrots
Cucumber	Dandelion greens
Green beans	Cabbage
Lettuce (not iceberg)	Potatoes
Sweet potatoes	Spinach
Squash	Capsicum
Yams	Zucchini
Almonds	Lemons
Limes	Freshly made vegetable juice
Apple cider vinegar	Green drinks: chlorophyll, wheat grass

Remember: keep it in balance aiming for a 50:50 ratio of acidic to alkaline forming foods.

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Our first Blog!! The healthy skin diet

After a weekend of hot pizza and red wine followed by cold pizza and coffee the next morning, I felt pretty bad (for those of you wondering, yes I really did eat that. I have no excuse except to say that my partner is away so I am eating rubbish). So I decided to do another skin detox and so got out my copy of The Healthy Skin Diet by Karen Fischer. One concept from the book I really like is the idea that acidic systems create health problems, including of course skin issues. This is neatly explained by this excerpt from Karen’s book in which she explains why acidosis is so detrimental.

Chapter 3 from “The Healthy Skin Diet” by Karen Fischer (printed with permission from Karen and Exsile Publishing)

Think green and friendly

‘Think green and friendly’ is not a mantra for a hippy commune; it is an essential step for beautiful skin, involving ‘friendly’ gut flora and ‘green’ foods and drinks that have an alkalising effect on the body. Technically speaking, some parts of your body should be acidic, such as your stomach when it produces digestive acids and your outer layer of skin with its protective acid mantle. However in general, your body’s tissues and blood should be slightly alkaline.

For years I ignored the concept of balancing the body’s pH with alkalising foods. Now when I look back I feel so silly. This guideline is really simple and you quickly see and feel your health improving so you know it’s working!

What happens if your body is too acidic?

The Healthy Skin Diet

According to Dr Guerrero, acidosis can damage cells in your body. An acid-producing lifestyle can also reduce the amount and quality of collagen and elastin being produced so you can end up with premature ageing and wrinkles. Good quality collagen and elastin is essential for youthful-looking skin. Too many acids in the body can also cause demineralisation, which can lead to dry and cracked skin, fingernails that split easily and thin, brittle hair. According to Dr Guerrero, having an overly acidic system can also do damage to your red blood cells so they alter in shape, clump together and they can die prematurely. Your red blood cells should look like round, flat discs — a bit like red frisbees or a throat lozenge — floating freely through your blood plasma. They should also have a negative charge on the outside and a positive charge on the inside. When your red blood cells are negatively charged on the outside as they should be, they cannot clump together. They repel. Unfortunately, when acid strips some of your red blood cells of their negative charge they start attracting each other and they form clumps. Your red blood cells should not clump together unless you’ve cut yourself and the blood flow needs to be stopped from escaping. Otherwise your blood needs to flow without clotting.

Your skin is usually the first thing to suffer when red blood cell health is poor. Your red blood cells carry oxygen to your skin but when they are sticky and bulky they cannot give your outer layer a quick and efficient supply of oxygen. Your skin may also look dull and possibly even pasty or greyish from low oxygen supply. You can also feel very lethargic if your blood is sluggish with damaged red blood cells that aren’t supplying enough oxygen. No wonder people often wake up tired after eight hours’ sleep and need a coffee pick-me-up! Fill out the following questionnaire to see if your body is showing any signs of acidosis. Circle any symptoms you experience on a regular basis (three or more times a week):

Common symptoms of acidosis

• fatigue, chronic fatigue syndrome
• fatigue or weakness after eating meals
• frequent colds and flu, low immunity
• poor circulation, cold hands/feet
• low blood pressure
• burning sensation during urination
• kidney stones
• excessive urination
• headaches
• pallor, dull complexion
• gastrointestinal problems: abdominal pains, cramps, acid reflux, diarrhoea, gas, ulcers
• agitation, nervousness, anxiety,
• depression, lack of ambition, lack of joy
• dental problems: bleeding or inflamed gums, cavities, cracked lips, loose teeth, tooth sensitivity
• muscle cramps or spasms, tension in neck and shoulders
• joint pain, arthritis-like pain
• nail and hair problems: brittle hair, hair loss, split nails
• allergies, runny nose, chronic bronchitis
• vaginal discharge, candida albicans
• skin problems: dry skin, eczema, acne, hives, itchy skin, red and patchy skin
• osteoporosis, brittle bones
• insomnia, restless sleep.

If you have circled four or more symptoms then you may have too much acid in your body. In the next blog (a few days from now) Karen discusses how to test for acidosis and what you can actually do to change this state for yourself. Hint: chlorophyll and green leafies help. And I should know, after the weekend, I am focusing on a largely plant based diet to give my body a break!
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Our first Blog!! The healthy skin diet

We wash, style and blow-dry in order to tame our often un-ruly tendrils. Yet some of the everyday hair care practices we use are actually doing more damage than good. This article takes a look at the issues we face in our efforts to achieve well groomed, shiny and healthy hair.

The average human head has about 100 000 hair follicles and from each one emerges a shaft of hair. Nourished by blood vessels the follicles produce new keratin cells promoting the constant growth of new hair. The inner layer or medulla,

which is protected by the outer keratin cells, contains pigment cells (for colour), fat granules and oxygen. Separate glands run alongside the follicle producing sebum, a natural hair and scalp conditioner. Straight, shiny hair is the result of sebum produced by the glands easily travelling the length of the hair shaft. By contrast, curly hair will often look and feel dry because the sebum has a more difficult time getting from the base of the hair shaft to the tip.

The overall health of the hair depends on numerous factors however nutritional status is key. There are no topically applied hair products that can compensate for poor nutrition. Hair cannot repair itself because it is already dead tissue. However, you can grow healthier hair from the “inside-out”. Healthy hair depends on a constant supply of blood, oxygen and nutrients to grow and maintain the look and feel. Any deficiency in key hair nutrients will show up in our skin, hair and nails first, before affecting our internal organs. Therefore, brittle, dry, dull hair that easily breaks may actually be a signifier to check your general nutritional status.

Hair is predominately made up from protein so a deficiency can result in changes to the colour and texture resulting in brittle, weak and thinning hair. Eating protein 3-5 week will help maintain your levels. If you have had a protein deficiency you will notice hair returning to healthy condition within 12 weeks of correcting the deficiency, as the new hairs grow through.

In addition diets high in sugar and animal fats may contribute to poor hair health. An imbalance between good and bad fat consumption can either lead to an overly dry and flaky scalp and dry hair or excessive oil production. Correcting the imbalance will help to normalise the health of the scalp and the relative dryness or oiliness of the hair. High sugar consumption creates a higher demand for B group vitamins, which can also affect hair health. Reducing highly processed and sugar rich foods will not only help hair health, it will also improve general health.

While internal factors affect hair health, external factors also have the potential to damage hair. If you have ever washed your hair with soap you would know that it tends to get tangled and knotty afterwards. The outer “scales” on the hair shaft stand up when in the presence of an alkali, such as soap and get caught up creating a tangled, messy “do”. The scales will lie down flat in the presence of an acid such as lemon juice or vinegar, which is why vinegar hair rinses were traditionally used after washing. While shampoos don’t create this effect they come with their own set of issues as they are stronger cleansers than soap and strip more of the natural oils from the scalp and hair, leaving it dry and in desperate need of moisture. This is where conditioners come in, their key functions to make the hair scales lie back down and coat the hair so that it feels smooth again.

In addition the type of surfactant used to clean hair in shampoos can be problematic with those such as sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphate contributing to irritated and dry scalp and hair issues. Softer surfactants such as decyl glucoside, coco glucoside or coco betaine are better choices for both hair and scalp health.

In general try to avoid conditioners and stying products with added silica as these will just build up on the hair shaft and create “artificially” shiny and silky hair. They will also increase the need to wash hair which in turn dries out hair again, creating a cycle of poor hair management and ultimately, poor hair health.

How often we wash hair is an individual choice however, most people tend to wash their hair too frequently, each time stripping back the protective oils from the scalp and hair. If your scalp is dry or itchy, try waiting one extra day before washing allowing the sebum to protect the scalp for a longer period. Twice weekly for normal to dry hair is a good benchmark. Obviously oily hair needs to be washed more frequently and often daily. Washing hair often entails blow-drying or straightening which if done excessively, damage the hair shaft. The less you dry & straighten, the better your hair condition will tend to be.

Hair styling agents can also impact on the health of the hair and more importantly your general health. In conventional styling products synthetic plastics such as PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone polymer), acrylic copolymers, VA (vinyl acetate)

polymer and acrylamide polymer are used as holding agents, all of which are synthetic petroleum based plastics. While these may not be specifically damaging to your hair, they are not environmentally friendly and in addition are easily absorbed through the scalp thereby contributing to the total toxic load your body has to deal with. Look instead for natural products such as beeswax or coconut oil based products for strong hold pastes or gels and sugar biopolymer based products from corn or vegetables instead of hair spray or mousse. The natural wax products will also help to keep the hair shaft moisturised. Generally styling products based on such ingredients are healthier for you and for the environment.

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More on SLS

Foaming or Fuming

This blog is unrelated to skin health and more about total body health. I have had the flu and so have been using the principle of  “food as medicine” particularly with grated ginger, hot water, lemon and honey. The other reason I thought of these ingredients is that a friend dropped around some food for me (bless!) and he used cinnamon sticks in a savory meal. It was fantastic. So below are some tips about some common kitchen spices and their medicinal benefits. I have also put one of my favorite winter dishes at the end.

Ginger
This spice comes from the underground rhizome of the ginger plant. Traditionally, ginger has been used to remedy symptoms arising from

gastrointestinal issues. It works primarily by relaxing and soothing the intestinal tract. Ginger is also warming to the digestive system so useful for sluggish digestion.

Research has shown that ginger effectively reduces all symptoms associated with motion sickness including dizziness, nausea, vomiting, and cold sweating. This action is also helps to safely reduce nausea in pregnancy. The good thing is that ginger is extremely safe, and only a small dose is required.

Ginger has also shown a reduction of inflammation and swelling in trials for arthritis. Regular cooking with ginger will help reduce generalised inflammation within the body.

Cooking Tips
Fresh Ginger contains more of the anti-inflammatory gingerol compounds than dried so use fresh ginger in cooking rather than dried ginger. Used in tea, mixing the ginger with honey and lemon juice, its pungent effect may help to relieve sinus congestion and assist with digestion.

Tumeric
From the root of the Curcuma longa plant comes Tumeric. Traditionally called “Indian saffron” because of its deep colour Tumeric has a history of use as a spice, therapeutic remedy and clothes dye.

The deep yellow or orange flesh of Tumeric are largely responsible for its

therapeutic effects. The active constituent in Tumeric is known as curcumin and it has shown in many studies to have a powerful antiinflammatory effect. When compared to drugs such as hydrocortisone and phenylbutazone, curcumin has exerted similar anti-inflammatory activity without the same risk of side effects.

Recent research Curcumin has shown to be a safe and effective treatment for inflammatory bowel diseases such as Crohn’s disease and ulcerative colitis. This effect has been seen in doses as low as the amount required for a good curry!

Another great benefit of including Tumeric in cooking regularly is that it has a powerful detoxifying effect. It works by enhancing the liver’s ability to detoxify chemicals.

Cooking Tips
Keep fresh Tumeric in the fridge and the powdered form in a cool, dark cupboard. Use it for soups, curries and bean dishes such as Kedgeree (see recipe below). Be warned, Tumeric will stain if it comes into contact with your hands or clothes.

Black Pepper
The berries of the pepper plant (Piper nigrum) are picked when half ripe and dried to create Black Peppercorns. Pepper has a stimulating effect on the

digestive system which is why it is often added as a spice to foods. It works by stimulating the taste buds which has the effect of increasing hydrochloric acid (HCl) secretion in the stomach. An increase in HCl leads to more effective breakdown of foods and therefore increased bioavailability of nutrients. For this reason, pepper has been used in some traditional Ayurvedic herbal combinations to increase the absorption of the other herbs.

Black pepper also acts to reduce pain and gas build up in the gut which is likely also a result of increased HCl production. The hot taste of pepper has the effect of increasing sweating which promotes toxic elimination through the skin.

Pepper used to add flavour to food however, as with everything, too much of a good thing can be detrimental. A good guide is that you can taste the heat of added pepper but your mouth doesn’t feel hot or burnt.

Cinnamon
Cinnamon is a well known spice with an extensive history of use as a pungent and sweet flavouring agent as well as a medicine. It is the inner brown bark of the cinnamon tree, which is available as a form known as a quill or as ground powder.

Health Benefits
New research has shown that cinnamon may significantly help people with

type 2 (non-insulin dependent) diabetes improve their ability to regulate their blood sugar.

Studies have found that cinnamon improved the ability of fat cells in diabetics to respond to insulin and greatly increased glucose uptake by the cells.

In a human clinical trial published in Diabetes Care, 2003 volunteers with type 2 diabetes were given doses of cinnamon powder, in capsules after meals. All volunteers in the trial responded to the effects of cinnamon with an average blood sugar level of 20% less than the control placebo group, some even achieving normal blood sugar levels.

The results of this study demonstrate that intake of 1 (equivalent to ¼ – ½ teaspoon daily), 3, or 6 g of cinnamon per day reduces serum glucose, triglyceride, LDL cholesterol, and total cholesterol in people with type 2 diabetes. The long term implications of this study suggest that regular inclusion of cinnamon in the diet of people with type 2 diabetes will reduce risk factors associated with diabetes and cardiovascular diseases.

Cinnamon research in a completely different area has also yielded positive results, this time for brain function. In one study chewing cinnamon flavoured gum or just smelling cinnamon enhanced study participants’ brain activity by improving cognitive processing. The specific outcomes were that tasks related to attention processes, virtual recognition memory, working memory, and visual-motor speed were all improved.

Cinnamon can be added to cereal, shakes, stewed apple and other sweets as well as savoury dishes such as lamb casseroles.

Cumin
Like Tumeric and Black pepper, cumin seeds have a beneficial effect on the digestion. Cumin works to stimulate the secretion of pancreatic enzymes,

compounds essential for good digestion and nutrient absorption. It is no surprise that these three spices are so commonly used together to create delicious dishes that have the added benefit of supporting the digestion.

Add Cumin to curries, bean and lentil dishes, vegetables and dukkah.

Kedgeree Recipe
Kedgeree is a spicy flavoured lentil dish without the heat of a curry. It is light enough to eat in spring and summer and contains lots of delicious spices.

Ingredients:
• 1 cup of mung bean lentils
• 4-6 cups of water
• 1 onion
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon minced ginger
• 2 teaspoons coriander powder
• ¼ teaspoon astafoetida powder
• 1 teaspoon tumeric powder
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons of ghee
• 1 cup of chopped, mixed vegetables eg. broc, cauliflower, carrot, Brussel sprouts, zucchini, eggplant etc
• Salt and pepper to taste (usually a good dash of each)
• Fresh coriander as garnish & yoghurt

Directions:
• Soak mung bean lentils overnight in water. Scrunch them in the water before rinsing to get rid of the woody flavour.
• Put the lentils in 4-6 cups of water with the ginger, garlic, bay leaf and spice powders.
• Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer. Add the tomatoes and other vegies. Cook for half an hour.
• In the meantime chop the onions and fry in the ghee until almost soft and clear. Add the mustard and cumin seeds to the onion and ghee and fry for an additional 5 minutes on a low heat. Make sure the seeds don’t burn.
• Add the ghee mix to the lentil & vegie mix. Take care as the fat hitting the water may spit. Stir through.
• Serve into bowls. Top with yoghurt and fresh coriander leaves.

When it comes to shampoo it seems that bubbles are what counts. Why? Because the bubbles show that the shampoo is cleaning our hair effectively.

Bubbles are created when the surface tension of the water is broken by a surfactant and air is trapped within the film of the soap. Unfortunately while bubbles may represent clean hair, more bubbles aren’t necessarily better for our hair or scalp. Some of the surfactants used in shampoos have the potential for scalp and skin irritation and hair damage.

We use many surfactants in our daily life, soaps and detergents, cleaning compounds, shampoos and a host of personal hygiene products. This article will look at two commonly used surfactants used in shampoo namely Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, and Decyl Glucoside. Both serve the same function in removing oil and dirt from skin and hair and being the base on which the hair cleaning products are built. That is where the similarity ends.

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate other wise known as SLS and other Sulphates are the most commonly used ingredients in shampoo. They are cheap, easy to formulate and provide plenty of bubbles and foam that we expect and like. Unfortunately this synthetic surfactant is the cause of many of the hair, scalp and skin problems that occur.

A study of the Material Safety Data Sheet of SLS provides us information about the hazard status of this product. It is moderately toxic and its contact hazard is also moderate however the issue is repeated exposure, such as regular use of a shampoo or body wash, which can lead to skin issues such as dermatitis. It has been used in medicine as a standard, or as a scale, to measure skin irritancy in comparing other chemicals. The irritation occurs even at concentrations of 0.5%.

Originally from plant origin, the starting material for this surfactant is Lauric acid, which is a coconut oil fatty acid. While the starting material may be

natural (it also may be synthetic), during the conversion process to SLS, petrochemicals are added which means that the end product is nowhere near natural and may also retain contaminants such as 1,4, dioxane, a potential carcinogen. While the levels are minuscule, the potential for toxicity arises with repeated exposure.

From an environmental perspective, SLS is not biodegradable which may present wider issues for the ecology of our waterways.

The Hazards of SLS

In some soaps and shampoos the concentration of SLS may be as high as 30%. This is cause for alarm, considering the risk of dermatitis and skin irritation due to exposure at such high concentrations. In children this threat is enhanced due to the softer skin and it is advisable to look for SLS free products and products using mild surfactants.

In addition to the direct contact effects of SLS, many shampoos contain nitrate compounds. These compounds can react with SLS with the potential to form carcinogenic nitrates. Given the potential, however small for the creation of carcinogenic compounds, it is advisable to choose personal hygiene products that do not contain SLS.

Glycosides and poly glycosides, also called saponins are present in most

plants. Some of these saponins are toxic however there are many saponins which are safe for topical or medicinal applications and even for human consumption as food. A wide variety of species, their geographical distribution, their applications and use by mankind are documented. Soap Bark (Quillaya), Soap Nut, Yucca Plant, Soap Wort, Horse Chestnut, Bracken and Soap Lily are a few examples of soap plants, from different parts of the world

Decyl Glucoside is a surfactant derived from two natural products, decyl alcohol and glucose. Decyl alcohol (Deca means ten) is produced from Capric acid. Capric acid itself is a fatty acid with a ten member carbon chain and is a constituent fatty acid of coconut and Palm oils (Coconut sources are preferable as the palms are sustainable). Capric acid is present to the extent of around 7% and 4% in coconut and palm oils respectively. Glucose, the other ingredient is produced from corn, maize and other starch based products.

It is important to clarify that a natural starting material does not necessarily equal a natural ingredient at the end of the manufacturing process. As pointed out with SLS, the addition of synthetic or petrochemical ingredients during the process of manufacture can completely change the starting material. While decyl glucoside is similarly changed from it starting material during manufacture, it does not carry the same risks of contamination as SLS so the end material is a very mild nonionic surfactant produced from corn, maize and other starch based products. Decyl glucoside is classified as ether in chemical terminology. It is produced by reacting decyl alcohol with glucose in the presence of an acid. The product is then purified and extraneous ingredients and reactants removed. Purified decyl glucoside is a liquid, which dissolves in water in any proportion.

Due to its mild nature on skin and its bio degradability, it is used in

shampoos, hair creams, lotions and other personal hygiene products including baby products. Generally decyl glucoside is much more expensive and labour intensive to produce and described as “tricky” to formulate with. Many products use decyl glucoside as a primary or secondary surfactant. It is a good emulsifier and has excellent foaming and lather properties. For this reason, the lack of potential for irritation and the absence of potential carcinogicity, decyl glucoside is a better choice in personal care items than SLS.

Some of the characteristics of Decyl Glucoside are

• Decyl Glucoside is an excellent emulsifier and produces good lather.
• Does not contain allergens,
• Is not a skin irritant
• No carcinogenic properties
• Chronic exposure symptoms have not been reported and no limits have been set on exposure to this product.

Decyl glucoside is by no means the only alternative to SLS however it is more and more commonly seen in shampoo and other personal care items and when it comes to choosing what to use on a daily basis, the more you know about the ingredients, the better. It also creates lots of lovely bubbles so lather away!

Author: Maree Watson, hairdresser and creator of the Eko Organica range of hair care. Edited by Ananda Mahony, naturopath and skin specialist.