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For a long time experts stated that there was no correlation between diet and acne however more and more research is popping up discounting this assumption. In this blog I look at the association between dairy, in particular milk and the incidence of acne.

The studies showing a correlation between milk consumption and acne cross a wide age group, from teenage boys and girls to adult women and while the dairy industry claim skewed data there is enough evidence to show a definite link.

Firstly though I want to be clear about what the research does and doesn’t show; milk consumption alone doesn’t cause acne but it seems that those that drink milk develop more severe acne than non-milk drinkers. Furthermore, the more milk consumed, the worse the acne tended to be.

While the link between the severity of acne and milk is strongest, other dairy products have shown similar effects including cottage cheese, chocolate milk and skim milk. From personal experience one of the worst offenders apart from milk is yoghurt. I had to cut out dairy completely for 3 months and until my breakouts cleared up completely, then I was able to reintroduce some dairy but only butter, occasionally hard cheese such as parmesan and very occasionally some icecream (just because I find it hard to resist). If I start back on dairy regularly, my system doesn’t like it and I start to break out.

One of the interesting things that emerged from the research is that skim milk induced more breakouts than whole fat milk indicating that fat is not the issue. Other research has shown that while high saturated and animal fat foods aren’t ideal from a health perspective, they do not necessary cause or worsen acne. High sugar foods on the other hand are another story completely and do show a strong correlation with breakouts.

So if not the fat, what is the culprit? While not conclusively proved, the hormones in milk may well be the driver. Milk contains androgen hormones, the most notably testosterone. The body converts some testosterone to di-hydrotestosterone (DHT) which has a simulating effect on the skin’s sebaceous glands promoting the production of sebum. The result is oilier skin, more pore congestion and therefore more pimples. The more milk consumed, the more hormones, which may explain the proportional effect of higher milk consumption and more severe acne. Genetics also play a role according to researchers with people who are genetically predisposed to acne breakouts having a stronger reaction to the hormones in milk.

It is common practice with the commercial production of milk for dairy farmers to give cows additional hormones as this stimulates a higher milk yield. One of the side effects of this is milk with a high IGF-1 (Insulin-like Growth Factor-1) concentration and again the more consumed, the higher the blood concentration of IGF-1 found. Like DHT, IGF-1 drives sebum production which can trigger acne breakouts.

The other issue that may be linked to dairy, keep in mind there is no specific research about this, is the protein in dairy. Skim milk is believed to be worse than full cream milk due to the whey protein which is added to give a creamier taste. There are many different proteins in milk and IGF-1 is only one that may cause issues. If your digestive system is not performing as optimally as it could, the proteins in milk may eventually lead to internal inflammation of the gut and poor detoxification of waste. There is a strong link between poor digestive detoxification and acne. I will address this topic in more depth in another blog very soon.

So while milk and dairy are not a direct cause of acne, cutting it out of your diet can help to reduce acne severity. Reducing dairy may help but giving your body a rest from it all together is going to get a better initial result. One way to test your response to dairy is to start with 3 weeks complete removal and monitor your skin’s response. Look for a decrease in overall breakouts and well as less redness (inflammation). If you find that it doesn’t seem to make a difference at all reintroduce dairy slowly, again still monitoring the response to see if there are any worsening effects. If it does make a difference, it is best to stay off or only have limited quantities (and can I just say, a latte a day is a lot, not a little bit of milk).

A note of caution, often when people give up cow’s milk, they move over to soy milk. While this may seem like a sensible substitute, soy contains phytoestrogens, which may also be problematic for acne sufferers. It is best just to see how you go without cow’s milk first before using a dairy substitute.

This is the first in a series of blogs I am going to do about acne, its underlying causes and triggers. Please let me know if there are any topics in particular you would like me to cover.

Yes its that time of year again – cool weather equals drier skin. The question that has been most asked is “what can I do about my dry skin?”. As always I like to give you a complete answer so I will outline below internal and lifestyle solutions as well as the topical products you can use to improve skin dryness and dehydration.

Firstly a short explaination about why your skin is feel dry and tight. Basically, with the cooler weather the humidity decreases and moisture evaporates out of your skin. This reduces the skin’s ability to protect from the external environment and so it reacts more readily to wind, cold weather and topical irritants. You may find that as well as feeling dry, your skin is also more sensitive during winter. However, there are a few simple steps you can take to reduce moisture evaporation and increase skin protection and resiliance.

Environmental Factors 

Sun, wind, cold air and hot water all increase water loss. You can reduce evaporation by making a few changes to your routine:

• Have short showers – long hot showers and swimming in heated pools opens up the pores and increases water loss from your skin.
• If you are in airconditioning, make sure you keep hydrated. To increase the fluid uptake into your cells add a squeeze of lemon or orange juice to your water bottle. 
• When out in the wind or cold apply a lip balm to help minimise moisture loss from your lips.
• If you know you are going to be exposed to the elements, wear a richer moisturiser or a thicker sunscreen to help avoid sun and wind damage.

Editor's Pick for cream cleansers

Topical Solutions

• Synthetic foaming agents such as sodium or ammonium laurel sulphate are a significant cause of acid mantle disruption and coupled with cooler weather can lead to issues such as dehydration, roughness, infection, redness and irritation. Switch to a cream cleanser over winter. You can go back to a gel or foaming cleanser as soon as the weather starts to get warmer again. Our cream cleanser picks include:
  • For very dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin choose the Haven Scent Coconut Cream Cleanser. This is almost like using a cold cream to remove make up as it is very rich and creamy. You can use a moist flannel to wipe the cleanser off.
  • For combination skin, where congestion and dryness occur choose the AUM Brightening Cream Cleanser instead. This includes enzymes to help clear congestion but is gentle on skin at the same time.
  • For normal skin types, the La Mav Soothing Cream Cleanser (Ed note: I am using this at the moment and LOVE it) is ideal.
• Use an oil serum at night to help improve the moisture holding capacity of the skin cells. You can apply the serum under your moisturiser (only use half a pump) or instead of a night cream. Any serum you use should sink into the skin completely within 5 minutes. Our product picks are:
  • Remedica Regenerate Visage or VitaleVisage – either of these lovely serums will nourish the skin deeply and more than that, help improve the skin cell health. (Ed note: I love Vitale Visage and it is the key product that got me through the onset of the dry weather).
• Choose a richer moisturiser. This may seem like a simple solution but it is a very effective way of preventing moisture loss from the skin. You don’t have to jump from a light lotion up to a rich cream, just choose the next moisturiser up from your current one. eg. I have gone from Devita Solar Protect which is quite light up to Devita Rx Ultrahydrate. Alternatively, try using your night cream during the day. If it sinks in without a greasy feel, then it is suitable for day use. Our picks include:
  • Devita Rx Ultrahydrate - a rich cream with hyaluronic acid to increase skin moisture holding capacity
  • AUM Regenerating Night Cream – great for moisture depleted skin
  • Third Stone Botanicals Rosewood Moisture Lotion – a lighter lotion that has a lovely moisturising effect. 

Nutritional Help

• Drink enough water as adequate water intake is required to maintain cellular fluid.
• Essential fatty acids from good fats help maintain the fatty membrane surrounding the cell, holding in moisture and nutrition. Good fat sources include deep sea fish, olive oil, nuts & seeds, avocado and flax seeds.
• If your skin is really dry, try the Lemon Detox drink for 7 days. The difference this will make is truly astounding.

If you have any additional winter skin tips, please write in and let me know. I would love to hear about them.

At the Natural Therapies Expo recently I entered a draw and won a Raindrop Technique. At this stage I had no idea what this therapy was or what I was in for – but of course I was excited that I had won something. So on Monday, after a very busy weekend which included the Open Day of our new centre at Bulimba and the Million Paws Walk, I went along for my appointment. The experience was nothing like I expected!

As soon as I hopped out of the car Val’s house (the Rainbow Technique therapist), I could smell essential oils. The smell was divine and got stronger as I entered the treatment room. As Rainbow Technique involves the use of therapeutic grade essential oils, to ensure I didn’t have a reaction Val performed a spot test on my arm. She also measured my height (!). After 5 minutes with no reaction on my skin, I undressed down to my smalls and lay on the table.

So to the experience! I think I imagined it would be much like an aromatherapy massage but in reality the therapy is completely different. For a start, undiluted essential oils are used and over the 90 minutes treatment 140 drops of essential oil was dripped onto my body and massaged into the skin. As you can imagine, I smelt divine afterwards. The smell was not sweet at all, more herbaceous and green, which was likely due to oils Val chose. For my treatment the oils used were Oregano, Thyme, Basil, Cypress, Wintergreen or Birch, Marjoram and Peppermint, and the blend Valor.

Firstly the oils were massaged into my feet. During this process I almost fell asleep. It was very relaxing. Then I rolled over onto my stomach and the oils were dropped onto my spine and feathered in using a spine-tingling massage effect. What I noticed was the waves of aroma wafting over me as Val applied each different essential oil. Far from being overwhelming, the aroma was relaxing and enlivening.

Prior to this treatment I was so very weary – I just wanted to curl up in bed for the day. Following the treatment and until I went to bed that night, I was very alert and while not overly energetic, I felt great. This is in contrast to how I usually feel after a massage, which is relaxed but a big groggy. I slept well and woke up invigorated. Val mentioned that the oils may cause my body to detoxify and that I may feel the effects of this for up to 48 hours after the treatment. I drank lots of water and felt fine.

Raindrop Technique derives its name from dripping the therapeutic-grade essential oils onto the body from a height (like rain). The oils are said to interact with the physical body as well as the energy field. This technique was inspired by the Native American belief that raindrops falling from a height may purify and cleanse the body and spirit.

The skin is highly absorbent and so the oils penetrate easily into the muscles and bloodstream. As a result only soft pressure is required to get deeply effective results. The massage techniques that are used such as feathering the spine also stimulate the nerve cells in the skin, making it more receptive to therapeutic effect of the oils.

Raindrop Technique was developed by essential oil researcher and naturopath D. Gary Young. As part of his research Gary showed that the essential oils may also influence the inflammation-producing bacteria and viruses that reside along the spine. On this note following my treatment, Val measured me again and I was 1.5 cm taller than before the treatment. Apparently this effect is common as the oils reduce inflammation in the spinal muscles allowing the spine to stretch out. And quite frankly at 155cm I need every cm I can get!

All in all, I really enjoyed the treatment and because I am a skin care junky, I of course ordered a whole heap of the essential oil blends to use at home. I am in love with some of the combinations.

To find out more about Raindrop Technique you can contact Val Chambers at valeriechambers@y7mail.com

Have you had an unusual treatment of any kind? Something out of the ordinary that you enjoyed? If so, let us know. It would be great to hear about.

A recent landmark study has highlighted the fact that many women undergoing cosmetic surgery have very little idea about what to expect from their procedure nor the associated risks. Unlike plastic surgery, which is performed to repair damage, cosmetic surgery is not necessary, rather it is a voluntary choice by the patient the majority of which are women. In Australia, anyone with a medical degree can perform cosmetic surgery from injections such as Botox to quite invasive procedures and currently there is no requirement to be a for the doctor performing the procedure to be a qualified surgeon.

The Australian study by health sociologist Rhian Parker from The Australian National University, has written Women, Doctors and Cosmetic Surgery: Negotiating the ‘normal’ body. Dr Parker interviewed 32 Australian women

that had undergone a cosmetic procedure and 19 medical practitioners performing the procedures. From the interviews, it emerged that there are 3 reasons that women choose to undergo cosmetic surgery:

1. A body feature they have been bothered about for a long time e.g. small breast size or a large nose
2. Changes that have happened over time or due to an event e.g. a stretched stomach after childbirth
3. Aging – women perceiving they look older than they feel

When approaching Doctors about cosmetic surgery, the study revealed that women generally don’t know what the surgery entails and therefore they don’t know what questions to ask. Many women are also embarrassed by their choice to undergo surgery and so keep it a secret thereby missing out on emotional and practical support throughout the process. Ironically, the research has also shown that Doctors are not understanding why women are there. Dr Parker noted that previous research identified that men prefer larger breasts than women. In Australia we have a situation where most of the Doctors performing cosmetic procedures are men and most of the patients are women and so unfortunately the end result is that there are now lots of women with larger implants than they originally wanted, for example, a women goes in asking for a C-cup and comes out with a D-cup. And so now in their perception instead of standing out because they have small breasts, they stand out because their breast are large. In most cases, women don’t want to look like movie stars or like another person, they want to look like better versions of themselves.

Dr Parker says there are wide ranging implications from the study. The first issue is that we need to actually find out how many women are undergoing cosmetic procedures annually as currently there is no way of tracking this information. Secondly, she identified the need for industry-wide quality control measures to be put in place. Also, and very importantly, that there needs to be unbiased education and information available to women undergoing cosmetic surgery procedures so they know how to make good choices and what questions to ask before they have a procedure. Finally a comprehensive list of complaints needs to be gathered Australia-wide so that the magnitude of the issues associated with these kinds of procedures can be identified.

Anecdotally there is a strong rumor that one of the reasons for increased medical insurance premiums across the board is due to the high number of complaints from dissatisfied patients following cosmetic surgery. Essentially the lack of regulation, lack of education and secrecy surrounding this industry is costing the entire medical industry dearly from a financial perspective and costing the women involved from an emotional perspective.

See an interview with Dr Parker.

Editor’s note: I found this study fascinating and alarming. I would love to know what you think, both about the study and about cosmetic procedures in general.

I mentioned in a previous blog that I was going to do a review about the latest fad diet, Raw Food. I say fad diet because like many other diets I have seen over my 15 years as a naturopath, the Raw Food Diet will have a boom in popularity followed by a slump with only the “true-believers” continuing on. Do I sound cynical already? Well I don’t mean to – I am writing this article primarily to stimulate comment.  But first, just a little bit of cynicism, a list of the fad diets I have lived through, either via my own experience or vicariously through students and patients over the years:

1. The Pritikin Diet – eliminated all fats from the diet including good sources such as nuts & avocado. Can I just say that Pritikin himself had a severe essential fatty acid deficiency later in life and suffered depression as a result. Later
   

   No fish - no good fats!

   versions of this diet include good fats – thank goodness (fat tastes so delicious!)

2. Anti-Candida Diet – do you remember when EVERYONE had candida, when every symptom of tiredness was due to an overgrowth of yeast in your body? So out the window went all foods that could feed this yeast overgrowth – all sugars, fruit, vinegar, yeast, bread, biscuits etc. Yes this is one I suffered through in the 90′s for many months only to come out the other side still tired (sleep may have helped) and with a dislike of fruit juice (I still hate it) and fruit (I only eat in limited amounts). Scarred? Yes I am!
3. The Zone Diet – I didn’t try this one mainly because just reading the book made me tired and overwhelmed. It was so militant and my attitude to food is that, yes it should be healthy but also enjoyable. Nonetheless, I did learn some great tips from this diet one of which is the palm measurement for protein portions: eat only the size and thickness of the palm of your hand (chicken, tofu, fish or red meat) at any one sitting. This does exclude 500g T-bone steaks but that was no loss for me.
4. High Protein Diets (including Atkins) – yes I did try this one as well including the chocolate coated peanut butter protein bars that looked so good and tasted sooooooo much like dried cardboard. I also had problems going to the toilet
   

   They may look delicious but they taste like cardboard!

   for the entire 3 weeks of the diet (I know, too much information). The problem with this diet is that it is too open to interpretation e.g. a friend of mine interpreted a high protein diet as follows: breakfast – scrambled cheesy eggs, lunch – 2 x lamb chops, dinner – cheese platter….and so on. With such a lack of anything resembling a vegetable, I am not surprised it didn’t work for him. While this diet may be useful for short term weight loss, it may not be so good for bowel health in the long term.

5. Sally Fallon’s Whole Food Diet – I actually LOVED this one. It is based on eating a wide variety of whole (ie food that hasn’t been processed) and fermented foods. It also included butter (organic & unsalted but still butter) – in moderation of course! The whole food trend is growing along with Slow Food and so I don’t think we have seen the last of this type of diet. This trend is certainly aligned with my way of thinking so I will state my bias up-front!

And so this leads me to the dietary fad of the 2010′s – Raw Food. Firstly I want to say that there are many positive aspects about this diet. For a start, the diet is based on fruit, vegetables, sprouts, nuts, seeds, grains, legumes, seaweed, and dried fruit – foods that most Australian’s don’t eat enough of and certainly not over 75% of the diet as advocated by raw foodies. If you ate 2 serves of fruit and 5 of vegetables yesterday, which is considered the minimum daily intake, I bet you feel fabulous today. However, most of us didn’t. Raw Foodies also believe that heating above 116 degrees F. destroys the naturally occurring enzymes that assist with digestion and absorption of nutrients. In addition that cooking food can reduce certain vitamins such as vitamin C and B group.

The raw food diet is highly alkaline and very cleansing and so the health benefits can be extensive and include weight loss, detoxification and bowel cleansing. While this all sounds good, and don’t get me wrong, I think most of us could do with a good clean out, in the long term a raw food diet is not a good choice for all.

I see the biggest issue with a primarily raw food diet is the issue of absorption. Many nutrients need to be cooked to be absorbed effectively. One example is lycopene from tomatoes which is released when in the presence of oil and heat. More importantly is the strength or effectiveness of most people’s digestive systems. This varies from person to person however, many people do not have the necessary digestive enzymes to break down the nutrients in raw food.

To illustrate this point, if you imagine the gut is like a small campfire, burning (processing) firewood easily and generating heat as a result. If you pour petrol on the fire, it will turn into a raging inferno (petrol in food terms equates to

excessive consumption of foods such as alcohol, coffee, fats and hot, spices). If you feed the fire leaves, it will burn quickly and then go out (leaves = processed, sugary foods which are full of energy but empty in nutrition). If you put green wood on the fire it will also eventually dampen down and die out (green leaves = cold foods such as those straight from the fridge, cold drinks, too many raw foods.). The gut is rich with capillaries that bring a supply of warm blood to the stomach so it can produce digestive enzymes. Too many cold and raw foods will constrict the blood supply and reduce the body’s own supply of digestive enzymes. And no matter how raw the food is, the enzymes supplied will never match the body’s own ability to produce its own enzymes.

So for those who have weak or poor digestion in any way (loose stools, IBS, bloating, indigestion etc), a raw food diet may be actually harder on the digestion that fresh, warm, cooked foods. You can consume the same types of foods that the raw food diet focuses on, veges, nuts, seeds etc but prepare them differently. Have a veg stir-fry, soups, stews, steamed veg or fresh fruit & veg juice instead. Warm foods are particularly important in Winter when our body is using a lot of energy to stay warm. Eating a raw salad mid-Winter means our body has to warm up the food to digest it properly as well as keeping our body warm. Summer is definitely the season for more raw foods and indeed the thought of eating hot vege soup on a hot day is not appealing.

Genetics play a role in how we digest and process food as well. If you come from a culture where cooked foods is the norm then it may be a shock to the system to suddenly change over to a raw food diet. Our body’s adapt to the food we eat and the way it is cooked so in this case, gradual inclusion of more raw foods is a good way to proceed.

Over time, a strict raw food diet may also lead to nutritional deficiencies such as protein, calcium, iron, B12 and zinc. These nutrients are commonly found in animal products and can be hard for the body to process from vegetable sources. While not impossible impossible to maintain good levels of these nutrients by any means it does require planning and deliberate inclusion of raw food sources that contain these nutrients.

My philosophy about food is one of moderation: good quality food, a majority whole foods – both raw & cooked, enjoyment of that food and the occasional treat. Maybe why I think the raw food diet will be another fad is that it is at the extreme end of the dietary spectrum. However, as with any diet, there will be some that absolutely thrive eating raw foods. I also stress that most people need to eat more fresh fruit & veg in general and if the raw food message is the way for this to occur then I for one will jump on the bandwagon. And I can’t stress enough how much people need to move away from processed, empty calorie foods, however, I suspect that like the other fad diets around, the raw food diet will have its day and I for one will stick to more moderate eating habits.

I would love to know what you think about raw food and if you have gone down this path, what your experience is.

Do you ever wonder why no matter how much sleep you get, the dark circles under your eyes never seem to get any better? Or why your cheeks are flushed even in winter? Or even why you seem to get blackheads on your nose and can’t get rid of them no matter what topical creams you use? These issues are actually signs that your body is giving you, and using facial analysis, you can work out what the root cause of your dark circles and flushed cheeks and finally do something about it.

From Greek medicine to Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), facial analysis has been used as an indication of the health of the organs or to provide useful clues as to the systems involved in any health issue. In particular TCM has a detailed map of the face including lines, organ zones and colour indications. Using TCM facial analysis principles with relation to skin conditions, the map and colours of the face can help indicate the underlying causes and support the choice of treatment.

Skin conditions that affect the face such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and acne don’t usually affect the entire surface of the face. The affected areas are often confined to particular areas or zones so just by looking at your face you can find out more about the underlying cause of any skin condition. This technique is not confined to skin conditions. It can also be used as a tool to assess wellbeing or to improve skin tone in general.

As a guide, go over each zone of the face and look for any changes in colour (from your normal skin tone), deep lines (that aren’t part of the normal aging process), congestion (pimples, blackheads, milia, whiteheads) or puffiness. Below is a guide to the key areas of the face and their associated organs. Included are key indications about lines and colours that provide additional information.

Facial Zone	Organ or System
Forehead	In descending order down the forehead: Bladder, Large  Intestine, Small Intestine. Usually lines across the forehead reflect an imbalance. Congestion or acne in this area represents digestive congestion and possibly poor detoxification. Red and dry or flaky skin is an indication of lack of fluids in the digestive tract.
Between the Eyes	This is the liver zone. A red patch between the eyes is a possible indication of poor liver detoxification and even heavy metal toxicity (particularly mercury). Vertical lines in this zone indicate Liver imbalance.
Under the Eyes	The top of the eye and directly below the eyes is the kidney zone. Puffiness and fluid retention in this area is a sign the body is holding on to too much fluid (watery and swollen with a blue tinge) or is mucus congested (fatty and swollen with a yellow tinge). Salt intake should be monitored, as should excessive sugary drinks such as fruit juice and soft drink. To reduce mucus congestion, reduce fat and dairy consumption.Blue circles or white under the eyes indicates tiredness or even exhaustion. A yellow tinge shows the liver and gallbladder are working too hard. Dry, flaky or red skin in the creases above the eye shows liver stress.
The Nose	The nose tip corresponds to the lungs while the bridge reflects the health of the stomach. Congestion in the form of blackheads usually represents poor stomach digestion and possibly low hydrochloric acid levels.If the nose is red or has broken capillaries, this usually indicates excessive intake of heating liquids including alcohol, coffee and tea.
The Cheeks	Represent the respiratory & circulatory systems. Pimples or congestion in this area are often the result of a high fat and mucus forming diet (simple sugar, dairy and processed foods).Pale cheeks may be a sign of low iron levels whereas overly flushed cheeks show poor circulation and the consumption of too many hot foods such as alcohol, coffee and spices and poor elimination. A greenish tinge indicates liver congestion.
The Mouth	Generally represents the digestive function. White or very pale lips may indicate low iron levels and poor circulation. Dry flaky skin or wrinkles can indicate dehydration.Cracks or sores in the corners of the mouth are signs of low B vitamin or iron levels. Red, hot or bleeding gums are a sign of a hot or over-acidic stomach and so animal fats, simple sugars and heating food & drink needs to be avoided.
The Chin	Corresponds to the kidneys and digestive system. Once again congestion in this area can be a sign of a diet high in processed foods, sugars and fats. It can also indicate unbalanced kidney function, which is usually the result of pushing the body by working too hard, stress or going beyond normal physical endurance.
The Jaw and under the jaw line	Often a hormonal influence, particularly if worsens in accordance with monthly cycles. Cysts rather than pimples may indicate lymphatic toxicity, which may result from medications, environmental toxins or a highly processed and sugar rich diet.

Every day we are exposed to air pollution, sunlight, smoke and more all which give rise to the production of “free radicals”.  Damage to our DNA, protein (collagen & elastin) and protein remodeling (skin healing) are all side effects of the production of free radicals. Internally the metabolism, the effects of stress and emotions and the result of everyday body process that utilize oxygen all create free radicals. Externally ultraviolet light from the sun and environmental stressors such as smoking, pollution, poor dietary habits and chemical exposure also contribute. The production of free radicals and the damage they cause is one of the key mechanisms of aging.  As one ages, the skin’s structural foundation weakens. Specifically, collagen which keeps the skin firm and elastin which maintains elasticity and helps prevent the skin from sagging. Free radicals attack your skin’s collagen and elastin layers, accelerating the creation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Skin-aging caused by free radicals occurs over time however, the damaging effect of free radicals is exacerbated in the presence of an antioxidant

deficiency which can accelerate this process considerably. Consider for example the skin of a smoker aged 40 years compared to a non-smoker. In this case, the antioxidant defenses of the skin are far outweighed by the production of free radicals as a byproduct of the daily cigarette habit. Much research has been done with regard to the benefits of antioxidants to combat the production of free radicals. Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals that harm the cells, causing damage and premature aging. Specifically antioxidants help to maintain the health of the skin cells such as collagen and elastin which keeps skin supple.

There are two ways to slow the effects of free radical damage on the skin:

Reduce the production of free radicals. You can’t really do much

about reducing free radical product that is the byproduct of everyday bodily processes however you can reduce your exposure to the environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution, chemicals and poor dietary habits. So the key advice such as minimizing exposure to midday sun and giving up smoking apply here.

Improve your antioxidant status. The neutralizing effects of antioxidants don’t prevent the effects of free radical damage however ensuring that your antioxidant status is optimal will certainly slow skin aging. Antioxidants can be increased internally and topically by:

1. Eating plenty of antioxidant rich foods – colourful fruit, vegetables and wholegrains are excellent sources of antioxidants. Key antioxidant rich foods for the skin include mangosteen, turmeric, green tea and berries of any kind.
2. 

   Antioxidant Supplements can help top up your levels

   Antioxidant Supplementation – specifically vitamins C and E, as well as lipoic acid and flavonoids (green tea and grapeseed), exert protective effect against oxidative stress in the skin and help protect the skin from damage caused by the sun. Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin as a specific subset of carotenoids may also be used as oral sun protectants and contribute to the maintenance of skin health.

3. Topical antioxidants – provide some protection against environmental damage to the skin and may help slow down skin aging. However, the effectiveness of topical antioxidants depends on a number of factors including skin permeability, the concentration of the antioxidant and the other ingredients in the cream and whether they are water or fat soluble among other things. Also keep in mind that just because an ingredient is an antioxidant, doesn’t mean that it will be effective for slowing skin aging and indeed that different antioxidants have different effects on the skin. Some of the more effective topical antioxidants that have been researched thus far include:

• Vitamin C – supports and stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces free radical damage
• Vitamin E – assists with skin healing, protects cellular membranes which helps maintain the health of the skin cell
• Green tea – reduces erythema and the effects of ultraviolet radiation, anti-inflammatory effects.
• Betacarotene & Carotenes – helps minimise sun damage
• Vitamin A (as retinoic acid) – increase synthesis of collagen, reducing fine wrinkles, improve skin texture and increase skin thickness
• Coenzyme Q10 – improving the cells ability to produce new collagen. It also increases the ability of the cell to minimise damage from free radical production.
• Lipoic acid – inhibit cross-linking which contributes to the ageing process

Whether in our diet, as supplements or topically applied, antioxidant play an important role in slowing down the aging process. Of course to get the best effect it is important to consider all three delivery methods. In addition, minimising your exposure to the environmental factors that cause free radical production, will significantly add to slowing the aging process, not just of your skin, but of your whole body.

Have you ever looked in the mirror the morning of a big event only to discover a huge pimple or noticed that your skin is unusually red and blotchy? Don’t stress, it will only make it worse! It could actually be the case that stress was the trigger for your breakout in the first place. Stress affects our lives in all ways, some motivational and positive, others subtle and more insidious. While not historically recognised as a contributing factor in skin conditions, there is now growing body of evidence to show that stress has potentially harmful effects on the skin. From acne to eczema research shows us that during times of acute stress, rashes and breakouts become worse, sometimes significantly so. It also points to the potential role of chronic low-grade stress as a causative factor in persistent skin conditions.

Stress can affect our appearance in a number of ways including increased perspiration, brittle nails, dry, thinning hair and sensitive more reactive skin. Where there is an existing skin condition, worsening can be seen in the following ways:

• Acne lesions and breakouts become more inflamed, last longer and take longer to heal
  

  Stress causes skin changes

• Worsening of the inflammation (redness) and dryness in eczema and rosacea
• Increased tendency to flushing and blushing
• Increased incidence of congestion and oily skin due to sebum production
• Increased sensitivity to irritants and infections agents

These effects are primarily caused by the impact of stress on skin permeability. In most chronic skin conditions there is an abnormality in the skin’s permeability barrier. The body responds by trying to repair the barrier and in the process initiates an inflammatory process in the deeper layers of the skin with the result of worsening skin symptoms. Even in people without existing skin conditions, stress has the ability to reduce skin permeability and increase dehydration and sensitivity. This may go some way to explaining why some people react to certain topical agent only some of the time; generally skin permeability is normal however during times of stress it is affected leaving skin more vulnerable to irritation.

When exposed to stress, hormonal and chemical levels increase. Hormones in the brain trigger the release of adrenalin and norepinephrine, creating the classic flight or fight response – our body’s are readying for an emergency, which most of the time doesn’t occur. Glucocorticoids are also released from the adrenal glands, and when stress is ongoing it leads to the decrease in skin barrier function. Interestingly, while a decreased barrier function often causes water loss, increased oil production can also occur due to the role of stress in the disruption of normal hormonal balance and an increase in substance P. So yes it is possible to have moisture dehydrated skin and be oily (usually through the T-zone) at the same time.

In addition to stress directly affecting skin permeability, chronic stress can also affect the functioning of the immune system. Stress down regulates the immune system making us more susceptible to infection. It also plays havoc with skin conditions that have immune involvement such as psoriasis, eczema, cold sores and shingles, most commonly causing worsening skin condition. Stressed individuals are also more likely to eat and sleep less healthily or be more likely to drink more alcohol further suppressing the immune system.

So how does stress reduction help with the treatment of skin conditions? Firstly, it helps by decreasing the release of

pro-inflammatory hormones, which results in less inflammation, redness and rash like symptoms. It also reduces blood vessel hyper-activity resulting in less frequent skin flushing, which is particularly important in rosacea. Time will see an improvement in skin permeability, which means greater hydration and less sensitivity. Oiliness will improve as hormones settle back to normal. This may take up to 3 months. Reducing stress will result overall in better condition both for those with existing skin disorders as well as those with normal skin.

Taking the time to incorporate some simple stress reducing techniques into your daily routine will help improve the condition of your skin:

• Avoid excessive consumption of stimulants such as coffee and soft drink. One caffeine-containing drink per day is ample. For those that are particularly sensitive, drink green tea instead of coffee.
• Exercise can significantly reduce stress levels. The release of endorphins following exercise increases feelings of
  

  Rob's Satsang - singing meditation

  happiness and wellbeing. In addition it increases circulation and therefore nutrition to your extremities, including your skin.

• Meditation or breathing techniques. Meditation reduces cortisol release and increases immune function – ideal if you are suffering from a skin condition. If you are a beginner, take a class in Buteko breathing or follow a guided meditation.
• Alcohol and smoking suppress the immune system. Smoking has many detrimental effects on the skin and so is best avoided completely. In moderation, alcohol consumption may help reduce stress however it is a fine and individual line, so stick to physician guidelines – one standard drink per day for women and two for men.  In addition, try to go without at least 2 days per week.

Check out our natural solutions to dehydrated and sensitive skin.

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Is your skin ready for summer? Summer is a time for sun, increased exercise and outdoor activity. After months of jackets and long pants, our skin needs a little bit of care before exposure to the Australian Summer sun. Advance preparation is a good idea before you pull out your summer clothing and expose your skin. Follow these guidelines so you are ready to smartly and safely enjoy the sun and make the most of your skin this season.

• Moisture is essential

It is important to remember that skin behaves differently from season to season and so your skin care routine should change to suit the difference in weather. In many parts of Australia there are effectively only 2 seasons: dry and humid. Our skin reacts dramatically to changes in humidity and so using the same skin care routine all year round will not help maintain well hydrated skin.

As the humidity rises in summer so does the moisture content in our skin. This is great for those who tend to dry or dehydrated skin types. Skin will feel more supple and hydrated. For those with normal to oily skin, you will notice that oil production increases in the warmer months and if not careful, skin congestion may increase.

During the summer months all skin types require lighter moisturisers. It is best to avoid moisturisers rich in waxes and butters and favour lighter lotions as these will provide adequate moisture content without causing congestion. Depending on skin type, it is also a good idea to change your cleanser from a cream cleanser to a light foaming cleanser or gel (avoid cleansers containing sodium laurel suphate) as they tend to more effective for removing built up sebum (oil) as well as daily grime and pollution.

For those with normal to oily skin, use cleansing masks and gentle exfoliation to reduce the likelihood of blocked pores and congestion. For those with dehydrated skin use a night oil based serum followed by a lighter day moisturiser. This will ensure adequate skin hydration without resorting to heavy creams more suited to the cooler, drier months.

Remember, part of an effective skin care routine includes changing to suit the seasons.

• Remove Dead Skin Cells

In winter, our skin is largely covered up and so we tend to give it less care and attention. For this reason, summer skin preparation should always include full body exfoliation. Our bodies shed dead skin cells constantly which his results in a layer of dead skin cells. This layer of cells leaves your skin looking dull, dry and sometimes scaly. Applying moisturisers won’t help create glowing skin unless you remove the dead top layer and in fact, moisturisers won’t even penetrate the skin effectively until the dead cells are removed.

To exfoliate your skin effectively you can use an exfoliation mitt in the shower, a dry skin brush or a body scrub. Use a gentle circular motion on your entire body from the shoulders down and once complete, rinse clean (use a specific face exfoliator for your face and neck). Follow with moisturiser. Continue once or twice a week throughout the summer season and it will help maintain fresh, glowing skin.

• Slip slop slap

The best anti-aging advice you will ever hear is to wear sunscreen. And yet, on any summer’s day at the beach you will still see Australians baking themselves under the harsh midday sun. If you want a glowing tan during summer there are alternative ways to achieve this look without damaging your skin. We will look at these options below. Firstly, when it comes to preventing sun damage there are some important things to remember:

• When buying sunscreen, the Sun Protection Factor measures how effectively the product limits exposure to UVB rays. The higher the SPF, the more protection against UVB rays. Choose an SPF 30+. If you spend time in the midday Australian sun and use any less than SPF 30 and you risk damaging your skin. This causes both an increased risk of sun cancer as well as promoting accelerated skin aging.
• Apply sunscreen evenly all over your face and the exposed parts of your body. While it may sounds obvious, we often miss bits or spread the lotion too thinly over our skin to provide effective protection.
• By the time you feel the heat of the sun, your skin is already burning so apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go out into the sun.
• There are a number of natural sunscreen alternatives now available. These products use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide based sunfilters which sit on the surface of the skin rather than being absorbed.
• Most importantly, don’t forget to wear a hat and cover up with light coloured clothing. Sunscreen lotions will do part of the job at protecting your skin but remember, they are not filtering UVA rays so you need to stay sun smart and keep your skin protected.

A glowing tan is something that many Australians aspire to but in reality you are best to learn to love the colour of skin you were born with. There is no such thing as healthy tanning, however, if you plan to be out in the sun this summer, slowly introducing your skin to the sun is a good idea. Sun exposure in the early mornings and late afternoons allows your skin to gradually build up some colour without burning. Twenty minutes is enough time. Remember by the time your skin starts to feel hot, it is already burnt.

Faking it! If you decide to use fake tan, choose a natural one. In the last few years a number of all natural fake tanning lotions have emerged on the market and provide a healthier skin choice than synthetic chemical products. If you choose to fake tan, remember that you still need to apply sunscreen!

• Drink plenty of Water

Water is essential for not only providing hydration to our internal organs but also for maintaining skin hydration. Increased sweating, exercise and outdoor activities mean that in the warmer months we can dehydrate quite quickly. By the time you register that you feel thirst, it is likely that you are already slightly dehydrated. The best way to avoid this is to sip water throughout the day ensuring your fluid levels are being continuously topped up. Invest in a good quality water bottle (avoid soft plastic as it leaches chemicals into the water) and take it with you so that you always have water on hand. Adequate hydration is an essential way to maintain skin vitality.

• Nutrition

During the warmer months, we tend to want less hot, stodgy food and prefer lighter meals such as fresh fruit, salads, wraps, juices. When we eat, our body temperature increases and warm food will add to this effect. Raw and fresh foods will help keep us cooler during the summer months. Concentrate on colourful fruit and vegetables, lean protein and good oils as the basis of your summer eating. Not only are these foods ideal for the skin, supplying essential antioxidants and reducing inflammation, they are also sources of essential nutrition for the rest of your body.

• Supplements for Skin health

There are a number of supplements that help provide optimal nutrition and maintain skin health year around…and not just during the summer months!

Beta-carotene – is the orange pigment found in carrots and green leafy vegetables. It is a powerful antioxidant and research has shown that it can help minimise the effect of certain free radicals induced by UV radiation from sunlight. Regular consumption of beta-carotene or beta-carotene rich foods can help to reduce skin aging from sun exposure. Dosage recommendation: 30mg Beta-carotene or mixed carotenoids per day.

Zinc – a deficiency of zinc can lead to skin problems and delayed wound healing. Zinc is essential for the cell division and protein synthesis so helps maintain skin integrity and resilience. Unless you have a skin condition or have low zinc levels, the zinc provided in an everyday multivitamin should be enough to support skin health (about 5-10mg per day)

Fish Oil – helps to maintain skin suppleness and elasticity as well as keeping a check on inflammatory processes. It is particularly useful to help manage inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and dry skin in general. For skin conditions 4-6g of fish oil per day is required. For maintenance and to help minimise dry skin, 1-2g per day is sufficient.

Grapeseed Extract – another powerful skin antioxidant, research shows that grapeseed extract enhances capillary strength and vascular function, reduces allergic and inflammatory responses in the skin and also reduces skin aging and the loss of elasticity. Dosage recommendation is 6-12g of Grapeseed extract per day.

Vitamin C – is an important antioxidant, quenching free radicals that cause skin aging. Vitamin C is also essential for collagen synthesis. Collagen provides the foundation matrix for cartilage, epethielial skin cells and connective tissue. When applied to the skin, Vitamin C stimulates cell renewal, collagen and elastin production and increases healthy circulation. Suggested dosage: 1000mg per day or as a topical application.

Summer is a time for fun in the sun. You can stay sun smart this summer and with these tips you can maintain healthy skin throughout the season.

This question about cellulite is from a reader and so I did some research and here is what my research turned up:

Orange peel skin is a skin issue that up to 80% of women have to contend with. Most commonly seen in the bottom and thighs cellulite affects women with varying degrees of “dimpliness” and associated body image distress. It is possible to minimise the appearance of cellulite, however, the treatment requires more than just use of a miracle cream and can take time to have an effect.

Cellulite occurs in the subcutaneous layer, which is top layer of fat just under the skin surface. Between the subcutaneous layer and the dermis there is net of fiberous connective tissue, the septae, which stores fat cells in compartments. Due to decreases in microcirculation and increases in fluid retention and blood pooling the septae become less flexible and pressure builds up pushing the fat cells against the skin. With time, the septae become a fiberous honeycomb structure that traps the fat cells causing the large bumps that are the hallmark of cellulite. The area has very poor blood supply, which is why the skin where cellulite occurs often feels cold to touch and poor lymphatic flow so is not easily removed by diet and exercise.

The cause of cellulite is not clear-cut. The common triggers are as mentioned above, are poor microcirculation and lymphatic flow however, what causes these changes in the first place is the issue. Genetics certainly plays a role with those susceptible to cellulite having an increased number of fat cells, poor tissue integrity including blood vasculature and lymphatic vessels and hormonal sensitivities.

Hormonal issues are strongly indicated with the balance between androgens and estrogens being indicated. Men with low androgen levels are more likely to develop cellulite. Estrogen is the likely driver in women, with higher levels promoting the growth of fat cells around the breast, thighs and buttocks.

A sedentary lifestyle may contribute to a worsening appearance of cellulite, as it is associated with weight gain, which can increase the pressure of the fats cells protruding into the dermis. It is important to note however, that excess weight is

not the cause of cellulite and it is equally found in individuals of normal and low weight, as it is those that are overweight. On the other hand exercise encourages the flow of lymph (removing waste products) and circulation (supplying nutrition) and may improve the appearance of cellulite.

There are no proven treatments for cellulite however stimulating the dormant, subcutaneous fat to be more active and encouraging its re-absorption back into the body metabolism may assist. This incorporates improving local blood and lymph flow to the area. In addition increasing the elasticity of skin will mean it is better able to cope better with increased fat volume.

Most topical products aimed at treating cellulite contain cellular metabolism stimulants. Some examples include carnitine, cayenne and caffeine all of which theoretically increase lipolisis (fat metabolism). Some also include ingredients that increase skin tissue integrity by promoting lymph or blood flow such as rosemary oil, gotu kola or horse chestnut or decrease fluid retention such as birch oil. The most popular by far are caffeine containing creams which are based on the effect of caffeine to promote lymphatic drainage from tissues thereby removing fluid retention and increasing lipolysis (cellular metabolism) which promote breakdown of cellular fat. While potentially effective in theory, no research backs up the effectiveness of caffeine for the treatment of cellulite so before you rush out to buy a cream, try massaging the coffee grains from your morning cup into cellulite affected skin each day and see what happens. If too messy and you do choose to work with a topical product, choose one that contains both cellular metabolism stimulants and improves the integrity of the skin. (Ed note: I couldn’t find any good natural cellulite creams so please comment and let us know at vitaleblog if you have used one)

Other topical treatments that may assist include massage and skin brushing the area affected by cellulite, which help to stimulate both the lymphatic system and the microcirculation. Done daily, dry skin brushing will improve the overall appearance of the skin as it also helps remove the top layer of dead skin cells.

Using dietary measures to improve cellular health will not only make you feel better, it may well help you to reduce cellulite. However no specific diets have research to support anti-cellulite claims. That being said many are associated with a reduction in the key factors that promote of cellulite such as inflammation, poor microcirculation, connective tissue weakness and sluggish fat metabolism. Reducing dairy and sugar consumption seems to have the greatest effect on minimizing the appearance of cellulite. Both dairy and sugar are associated with inflammation and dairy is high in saturated fats, which can impact microcirculation and fat metabolism. (I haven’t yet found a better resource about dietary concerns than Karen Fischer’s book The Healthy Skin Diet). A diet high in good oils, whole grains, fruit & vegetables and water will minimize the key cellulite triggers as well as improve cellular health and general wellbeing.

If all else fails and you have an emergency trip to the beach, fake tan can help temporarily reduce the appearance of cellulite as can a good pair of swimmers (I wear these Vintage-style swimmers and love the cover they provide) and some board shorts or a sarong. Try to use a fake tan based on natural ingredients such as betacarotene as this will minimise the use of chemicals that may in fact contribute to cellular toxicity.  And remember most of all to focus on your best assets and the parts of the body that you do love because above all, confidence in yourself is attractive.

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