A pure and simple wonder!
Everyone is talking about squalane at the moment. Ahhh the “new kid on the block” so to speak. Well not really. This gem of oil has been coveted by women in the Japanese and Korean skin care market for decades. In fact REMEDICA has been formulating with olive squalane for the last 8 years and for several months has made it available in a pure form online.
Squalane is such a wonderful natural substance with both anti-oxidant and anti-irritancy properties (Lancet Oncology, October 2000, P 107–112); Technically however, this oil is not a fixed or whole oil, but a fraction of either shark liver, or in the case for vegans and the more animal friendly out there, from plants (olives). Its molecular structure is more similar to sebum than jojoba and is a wonderful, if not irreplaceable emollient, lipid restorer, pH balancer and overall skin soother and sebum balancer for almost all skin types and even those with more difficult pathologies, such as rosacea, very oily, dry acne, eczema and so on.
Why is this oil the “bee’s knees” of skin care maintenance and acid mantle health? Well, for those that remember my never ending rants from back as far as 2006 describing the “best foundation for a healthy skin” and I am not talking makeup, I was preaching the theory that what the ladies at the cosmetic counters would NOT tell you is the unglamorous truth – the healthiest skin – the skin most able to optimise the nutritional and functional value of topical moisturisers and treatments was a) a healthy balance of sebum and sweat (oil and water) of the epidermis. That is the protective outer layer – acid mantle.
The acid mantle relies on a finely tuned healthy pH which is designed to protect against disruptions such as protection against dehydration as well as protection against basic free radical damage and pathogens. The physical process of this process of balanced sebum and sweat is referred to in the cosmetic science industry as the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF). And without a firm and healthy flow of these two elements (water and oil) our skin can suffer the consequences of symptoms as extreme as eczema or as mild as sensitive dry skin that simply does not seem to absorb or make use of topically applied facial products.
The oil components or “fat” components prevent loss of moisture (dehydration), and combined with the physical lubrication provide the skin with its ability to remain smooth and supple. This is the intercellular matrix or “first line of defence”. In combination with the natural process of sweating and eliminating toxins our skin also provides us with the mechanism for retaining a healthy and protective pH which in turn assists in protection against free radical and pathogenic attack. (Dermatologic Therapy, 2004, v 17, Supplement, pages 43-44).
Squalane is a naturally occurring constituent found within the skins healthy NMF and along with amino acids, cholesterol, phospholipids and glycosaminoglycans to name just a few co constituents, contributes to a higher integrity of the skin’s surface to remain hydrated, smooth, plump, glowing and radiant.
Squalane is not the only oil that mimics the lipid content of skin… there are other oils such as coconut, jojoba, lecithin (my absolute favourite natural hydrator) and sesame etc, However these oils on their own tend to not show such compatibule molecular structre in terms of absoption rate and pore health. The structure of squalane is so molecularly fine with absolutely no scent/odour that it blends and absorbs into the skin almost immediately leaving no greasy residue, causing no over stimulation of sebaceous glands and provides relief almost immediately.
By using ingredients such as squalane to support the skin natural defence and healing ability means that you are helping the intercellular matrix of the skin to stay intact and receptive to positive nutritional input rather than becoming less receptive and irritated.
REMEMBER the big thing is that the skin is designed naturally to repair, regenerate and replenish. If you starve the skin of oils, let alone oils (lipids) that provide NMF then your skin will suffer dryness and distress.
Important uses of squalane in skin care for men and women:
Oily skin – often the case of oily skin is “dry skin that produces excess sebum”. To help curb this in balance, I often recommend a few drops of either the oleo serum clair.visage (for hydration and balancing) or in the case of very oily /irritated skin, a few drops of squalane IMMEDIATELY AFTER WASHING THE SKIN/FACE. This will help, a) immediately restore lost oil from the skin and b) assist with the reinstatement of a healthier pH, which by the way WILL be raised or lowered no matter what type of cleanser or soap you use!
Dry and Irritated skin – applying squalane to a slightly damp skin after cleansing is the perfect way to restore lost lipids and help rebuild a healthy acid mantle by establishing the water/oil balance again. I often suggest after a week of using squalane day and night after washing that the skin will start to show great improvement in its ability to a) absorb other skin care moisturisers and serums and b) start to regulate its own sebum flow.
After Shaving for Men – a great way to get an instant relief from irritated, dry or tight feeling skin after shaving is to apply a few drops of squalane immediately after rinsing the skin. The application of squalane after shaving may also reduce the occurrence of annoying bumps and congestion from pore irritation.
Fine and delicate skin will also benefit from the use of squalane as quite often those with a finer complexion tend to stay clear of many oils and lubricants fearing a greasy or aggressive oiliness or clogged pores. Of course peanut oil from the pantry probably will not be such a good choice, but squalane is the perfect solution for supporting the skins ability to retain moisture and delay the signs of aging often caused by dehydration due to low NMF content.
Very hot /humid climates. Finally for those that live in oppressively hot climates where the use of any major oil or moisturiser is almost unbearable…well a lot of these folk will too end up having an oily but inherently dry or dehydrated skin. By adding squalane in pure form to their daily skin regime, a more supple, hydrated and smooth complexion is possible without the greasy or uncomfortable feeling of smothering the skin.