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There are some great video blogs and Youtube videos being created that highlight all that is silly, funny or downright rotten in the beauty industry. These are 2 that I came across this week and thought were worth a watch:

Fotoshop by Adobe looks at the use of image manipulation in the beauty industry. It makes one wonder if there are any “untouched” images in the mainstream media.

Try to Look Pretty without Poisoning Yourself is an amusing look at the alarming ingredients in conventional make up. Eeeek!

If you come across any videos that take a look at the beauty industry, good, bad or ugly leave a link. Thanks!

The world is connected in ways that we never imagined even a decade ago and one of the most exciting aspects of this expansion is the discovery of new and exciting ingredients. Once considered exotic, ingredients from Morocco, Polynesia and Africa now feature in our everyday skin and hair care. This article takes a look at the benefits of some of the exotic oils now available to us, the benefits of which far surpass the traditional oils we have relied upon up until recently.

Argan oil – this oil is the darling of hair care. Produced from the kernels of the Argan tree fruit, which grows in Morocco, it is higher priced than many oils due to its limited availability.  Consisting of a blend of fatty acids, it is also rich in vitamin E, phenols (antioxidants) and carotenes, which give carrots their orange colour. Preliminary research is showing promise in the areas of sebum control and the management of psoriasis. However, the use it is currently most known for is hair care and indeed it works very effectively to reduce frizz and create a high shine on dry or dull hair. It can also help with oil control for both oily and overly dry hair.

Due to its high content of oleic acid, it tends to be a slightly heavier oil and so may not be ideal for skin that becomes congested easily or that is prone to acne. It is however, ideal for dry, dehydrated and mature skin types. View products that contain Argan Oil

Baobab oil – is extracted from the nuts of an indigenous African tree. Its primary benefit for skin is that it is fast absorbing, non-comedogenic and has great moisturising qualities. It can also help with dermal protection, skin regeneration and the improvement of elasticity. This oil is great as a serum base oil. View products that contain Baobab oil

Olive Squalene – is actually a fraction of Olive Oil and is similar in form and function to Jojoba oil. It helps to balance sebum production and restore the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the skin. Like Jojoba, it can be used for dry, dehydrated skins as well as oily skin types as it very light and doesn’t clog pores. Olive squalene is particularly useful for dry acne. View products that contain Olive Squalene

Tamanu Oil – Tamanu oil has powerful healing properties in its unique ability to promote the formation of new skin tissue. Traditionally used by the Polynesians as first aid for the skin and mucous membranes, the oil can assist with scars, burns, skin cracks, cuts, dry skin and wounds. Used cosmetically, Tamanu has healing, mild antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity. For these reasons it is used in both protective and regenerative products aimed at restoring skin appearance. View products that contain Tamanu oil

Marula Oil – sourced from the nuts of the Marula tree in Mozambique and South Africa this oil is fast absorbing, helps to reduce trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and supports tissue healing. Another interesting quality noted about Marula oil is its ability to reduce skin redness and vascular pigmentation commonly found with broken blood vessels. View products that contain Marula oil

Fortunately all of these oils are available either singularly or as base oils in serums and moisturizers so you can choose the unique qualities of one, or benefit from a combination.

I love summer, but not because of the heat and humidity rather because I get to go to the beach and swim. With skin like mine, I have to be careful and so a protective swimming shirt, hat and 30+ micronized zinc sunscreen are absolute essentials for me. Even then I don’t go to the beach between 10am and 2pm. Despite the preparation, I still manage to develop a new crop of freckles each year. Now freckles I don’t mind but sun damage and more permanent skin pigmentation I do so there are strategies I incorporate in my daily skin care regimen and ingredients I look for in my skin care and sunscreen that help to manage and prevent the likelihood of both.

Firstly and most importantly, the regular use of SPF products is critical. Research completed in September 2011 (Diffey BL, J Cosmet Dermatol) evaluated the effect of daily application of topical photo-protective products and its effect on facial photo-aging (skin aging due to sun damage). The results show that regular use of topical photo-protective agents (SPF sunscreens) significantly reduces the lifetime exposure to UV. While this may seem logical interestingly, the SPF rating was of lesser importance that beginning regular use early in life. IN addition many only use an SPF product in the summer months and this study identified that year-round use was preferable. To sum up this research, start early and use an SPF product daily.

Some plant ingredients have shown a good protective effect against UV damage and erythema, which is skin reddening, coupled with inflammation. Human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols in particular are photo-protective in nature, and can be used as topical agents for the prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photo-aging and potentially non-melanoma skin cancers. Use as a preventative for non-melanoma skin cancers requires more clinical trials in humans to confirm ongoing efficacy.

In addition to its skin protective effects, green tea also has good antioxidant activity as well as and ability to slow skin matrix degradation which leads to wrinkles and loss of firmness. White tea shows similar protective and skin rejuvenation effects. The fern polypdium leucotomos has also shown a photo-aging protective effect however this is less widely used in skincare than green tea.

When it comes to skin lightening and reduction of pigmentation, there are good ingredients and some that are not so good. The use of hydroquinone, which was the standard prescription for skin lightening, has become controversial due to its potential long-term consequences including a potential cancer causing effect when consumed orally. This has lead researchers to look at new skin lightening ingredients particularly for those with mild to moderate skin pigmentation. One study completed in 2010 (Draelos ZD, Yatskayer M, Bhushan P, et al, Cutis) compared a 4% hydroquinone cream with a topical formulation containing the herbal ingredients kojic acid, emblica extract and glycolic acid from sugar cane. Eight participants used either the herbal formulation or the hydroquinone cream twice daily for 12 weeks. At the end of the study, results showed that the herbal preparation was just as effective as the hydroquinone cream.  Other studies have showed similar results with either one or a number of herbal skin lightening ingredients.

It is important to note that the clinical trials are conducted over a 12-week period as skin cell turnover takes approximately 90-120 days, which means the new non-pigmented skin cells take this long to emerge. If you choose to try a skin lightening cream or serum to manage pigmentation, be aware that it will take time so don’t expect overnight results.

So apart from the “slip, slop, slap” routine (for non-Australians this is translated as “slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat”), these measures mean that despite living in Queensland I can be sure I am doing the best to prevent progressive sun damage and minimize sun cancer risk.

My product recommendations:

Daily Sun Protection

• Devita Solar Protective Moisturiser SPF30
• Lavera Anti-Ageing Face Cream SPF15
• Devita Solar Body Block SPF30

Skin Lightening

• La Mav Daily Vitamin C Brightening Serum
• Devita Skin Brightening Serum
• Devita Complex KBA

Related Articles:

• Skin Pigmentation Treatments
• My Skin Lightening Experiment

In answer to the title of this article you may expect that the response is “it’s organic or natural” but that goes without saying. However, this article takes a deeper look at the classes of ingredients, the skin benefits of these ingredients and their impact on the skin. The basic aims of a good moisturiser is to maintain or restore skin barrier systems and to improve overall skin health. At a cellular level it is important that the formation of the epidermis or outer layer of skin is supported, as this is the foundation of an effective protective layer.

A well-formulated moisturiser will have the following properties:
• Mimic skin structure and function
• Slow trans epidermal water loss
• Maintain the skin’s protective barrier
• Nourish the skin by providing nutrients such as vitamins, minerals and essential fats
• Have a moisture saturating effect i.e. provide the skin with the moisture it needs
• Have a balanced pH
• Have a restorative effect i.e. work to improve superficial skin damage

In addition, it is important that the formulation looks, feels and smells nice. The aesthetics of a formulation have a large impact on its use. After all, a formulation can have amazing properties but if it sits on the bathroom shelf without being used, it is no good to anyone.

In order to achieve the above aims, a good moisturiser obviously needs to contain active ingredients but just as important are the base ingredients. In many cases, the base carriers, emollients (softening and soothing) and humectants (retains water) could also be considered active ingredients if well chosen.

Base ingredients are those that make up over 50 – 70% of the formulation. They are responsible largely for protection and hydration. If formulated well with ingredients such as fruit, seed and plant oils or gels, they will also provide some nutritional value.

The growing sophistication of natural and organic formulations highlights the key differences between these and their synthetic counterparts. Obviously the lack of potential toxic or irritating colours, fragrances and preservatives is a major difference, however, returning to the original premise of the article, “what makes a good formulation”, the key difference by proportion of formulation is actually the base ingredients. Comprising over half of the formulation, they can either actively promote skin health, or have a somewhat neutral effect.

By way of example, petroleum has an excellent and immediate barrier effect on the skin however, it sits on the surface of the skin and so stops the skin breathing and depending on where it is sourced may potentially be a source of toxic contamination. On the other hand, Shea Butter also has an excellent barrier effect but is also a source of vitamins A and E, iron and essential fatty acids. In addition it penetrates the skin readily, has an emollient effect and supports skin elasticizing. As you can imagine, a formulation containing Shea Butter is much more likely to meet the essential criteria of a good formulation.

Active ingredients are more likely to help to restore skin health and provide skin nourishment. These include antioxidants, vitamins, amino acids and minerals. They may make up between 5-10% of a formulation. These days it is common to see the same active ingredients in a good organic formulation as it is in an expensive department store brand or dermatologist cosmedic range. Ingredients such as vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids, hyaluronic acid and peptides are no longer the exclusive domains of dermatologists.

Depending on the formulation colours and fragrances make up less than 5%. An organic formulation is unlikely to have any added colours or fragrances but rather utilizes the natural fragrances of essential oils, which are in fact considered actives or essential oil based preservatives, which again give the formulation its fragrance.

Preservatives may also contribute up to 5% of a formulation. Depending on whether the formulation is natural or synthetically based, the preservatives will be either essential oil or plant based or a synthetic alternative such as parabens. Some organic products contain chemically modified preservatives i.e. the starting material is natural but it is modified to have a preservative-like effect. One example of this is phenoxyethanol. There are a number of ways of manufacturing this preservative however the form that is acceptable in organic formulations is based on natural starting materials.

Determining a good moisturiser from one that is…well average cannot be based on the active ingredients alone. A holistic review of the ingredients including the base formulation, colours, fragrances and preservatives will determine this and if after this you are still unsure, ask! Contact the manufacture, check the Skin Deep database or ask the retailer for a detailed explanation of ingredients so that you really know what you are putting on your face each day.

To review the ingredients of some very good organic moisturisers, click here!

Have you noticed that organic products feel different to their synthetic counterparts? Sometimes they take a little longer to sink in or initially feel richer due to the oil component. Once applied however, you can start to notice your skin feels different, and not just after application but also over time, it feels smoother and more hydrated. There is a reason for this and it all comes down to the base ingredients used in organic skin formulations.

Conventional skin care contains synthetic ingredients such as fillers, silicon and slip agents. These make the product feel smooth as they give the product slip and are designed to settle on the top of the skin, creating a smooth barrier. It also makes your skin appear more hydrated than it actually is. In reality, the barrier created by fillers and silicone agents creates an occlusive coat, trapping ingredients below it and stopping the skin from breathing. While this may make your skin feel better in the short term, in the long term they provide little if any nourishment for the skin.

Skin “breathing” is a critical function of body detoxification. While creating a barrier to the outside world the skin also allows substances such as water, waste products and oxygen to pass through its layers. If these are then trapped below an occlusive emollient such as silicone it can lead to skin health issues such as congestion, poor skin texture and irritation. Extended exposure to sweat under an occlusive layer can further irritation. In addition, skin exposure to ingredients such as artificial colours and scents, which are already the most significant cause of skin issues, can become even more problematic if trapped under an occlusive layer.

Jojoba Oil protects without blocking skin

By contrast natural base oils and butters, while giving products a smooth base feel, also allow the skin to breathe. As fatty substances they are absorbed into the skin, rather than sitting on the surface and in doing so carry important ingredients such as antioxidants through as well. In addition, they are a source of critical essential fatty acids, glycolipids and phosphlipids which support the skin cell membranes and permit nutrients and water into the cell and toxins out.

What to look for in your products are ingredients such as those listed below:

• Pure Seed, Fruit and Vegetable Oils: Tamanu, Sea Buckthorne, Olive, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, Marula, Baobab and the list goes on…
• Plant Butters: Cocoa, Shea or Mango among others
• Aloe Vera Gel

The benefits of products containing such ingredients as their basis are twofold; firstly they aren’t irritating to the skin and secondly provide essential nutrition.  This is a win-win situation all round.

This is a great video blog demonstrating how to create a summer signature look using the fabulous Lavera make up range. This video tutorial includes a number of professional make up tips that are useful. Annabella is a TV producer and has hosted numerous TV shows. Like me She loves fashion and beauty, but wants it to come at less of a cost to the earth and to our bodies so her aim is to find fabulous eco and organic products.

Annabella used the following Lavera Products:

• Beautiful Mineral Eyeshadow – Golden Beige #2
• Beautiful Mineral Eyeshadow – Chocolate Brown #8
• Liquid Eyeliner – Black
• Double Black Mascara – Black
• Eyeliner No. 1 black

View the Lavera makeup range

I decided to write a follow up to my apparently very popular Oil Cleaning article. I have had so many questions about this technique, people asking if it will suit their skin and if they should give up gel/foaming or milk cleansers for good. So I thought I would clarify a few points and also add more about my experience.

Firstly, I don’t think oil cleansing suits everyone. I do think it is particularly good for dry and dehydrated skin however, I have read (www.highonhealth.org) that oil cleansing can be far too rich for oily or acne prone skin. Fran from highonhealth.org says that her skin broke out quite badly using this method however when this occured, her skin was acne-prone and oily. I have also had a number of comments in person and on the blog indicating poor results, generally from those with normal to oily skin. In some cases, coconut and olive oil were used instead of a lighter oil such as jojoba so it may also be the type of oil impacting on the outcome.

Oil Cleansing isn’t the only good way to cleanse skin and milk, gel and foaming cleansers certainly have a role depending on your skin type (click here to read more about cleansers). So if you like using any of these cleansing methods, keep going, there is no “one answer” for everyone. Some people love the feeling of a really clean face and this is not something you will feel after oil cleansing.

Currently I use oil cleansing at night only as it helps to take off any makeup I have worn throughout the day. In the morning I use a gel cleanser as it makes my skin feel fresh and clean. Come Summer I will forego Oil Cleansing altogether as I just think this technique is going to feel too heavy in humid and hot Brisbane. I will go back to Oil Cleansing as soon as the humidity starts to decrease, probably around Easter next year.

So to clarify, if you are happy with the cleanser you are currently using and it works for you skin, keep using it! However, if you think your skin would benefit, give Oil Cleansing a go. Please keep your questions and comments coming – I love hearing your experiences about both oil cleansing and any other cleansers.

Related Articles

• The Oil Cleansing Method

One of my major bugbears is the use of “green-washing” when it comes to the natural & organic skin care industry. Waving an organic tea-bag over a jar of skin care doesn’t make it organic. I think a healthy dose of transparency is needed in this industry. This youtube video by Pure & Green Organics is a good one as it helps to identify some of the marketing tricks used as well as showing consumers how to identify certified organic ranges.

I do want to point out that using natural skin care (which isn’t necessarily organic) is the first step to healthier skin…going organic is the next step however it isn’t always possible to find products that work for you that are both natural AND organic. Ultimately I believe you have to choose the product that suits your skin first over organic certification (please comment if you disagree as I love to read what y’all think). I can imagine a world where this will be possible…and quite soon, but we aren’t there yet.

Organic Skincare – Real or Fake by Pure and Green Organics

Over this last winter my skin was a bit more dry than usual (hello stress!) and I was fishing about for something to help. I moved to a cream cleanser which was good but then ran out. So one night I grabbed a bottle of jojoba oil, massaged about 8-10 drops over my face and eye area and then gently wiped with a warm cloth. I was pleased at the time because it took off all of the mascara I had applied that day in one go (usually I have to give my eyes an extra wipe to avoid panda bear eyes). Over the next few nights I continue this routine and found that my skin hydration improved significantly. Fast forward 2 months and I am still using this cleansing technique and love it. Apart from increased hydration I have also found that the congestion I usually experience on my nose and chin has also improved – so happy about that!

While it feels counter-intuitive to cleanse with oil there is actually some reasoning to this method. Essentially, oil attracts and pulls fat soluble particles (those that mix with fat rather than water) including pollution, makeup and waste products from the skin. Eventually this has an effect on skin congestion including blackheads and whiteheads, as the oil mixes with sebum and follows its pathways down to skin cell and skin matrix levels destroying bacteria.

For acne and oily skin, this method can be used but it is important that the oil used is chosen carefully. Castor and Jojoba oils are ideal as they mix with sebum well and therefore help clear bacteria. However, molecularly heavy oils such as Coconut and Castor oil need to be diluted by mixing them with lighter oils such as grapeseed, jojoba or even Olive oil. So a blend of oils is generally a good idea. A 50-50 mix of Oilve and Castor or Jojoba and Castor is good for acne prone skin.

For dry or dehydrated skin, oil cleansing avoids the traditional use of foaming cleansers which can have too strong an effect on the skin’s protective barrier. The oil creates a moisturising barrier across the skin that allows the skin to function normally but holds moisture in. It also supports the acid mantle of the skin thereby eventually helping to balance oil production. This may also be a suitable method for sensitive skin, as there are no essential oils or artificial scents which are the most common irritating agents. For me, I just used pure Jojoba oil and didn’t worry about blending oils. However, if my skin were more congested, I would consider mixing Castor and Jojoba oil together.

The Oil Cleansing Method

• Massage 8-10 drops of your oil mixture over your face and neck
• You don’t need to pre-clean off makeup
• Massage the oil gently into your face and neck for 30 seconds to a minute
• Soak a soft washcloth or microfibre flannel and in warm water. Gently wipe away all visible oil. Using a flannel will also help to remove dead skin cells on the surface of your skin.
• If your skin is oilier and want to open up your pores, use hot water and gently apply the cloth over your face. Leave it until it starts to cool then wipe away all visible oil. I advise against using a hot washcloth if you have dry or sensitive skin or rosacea as it may irritate the skin and increase moisture loss.
• Rinse the cloth and repeat.
• I always apply a serum after washing my face and using this method is no exception. However I did find I need to use less serum. If you have oily or acne prone skin you may choose not to apply anything at all.

If you have used the oil cleansing method, I would love to hear what your experience was. Good, bad…indifferent?

Skin care advertisers promise women so much…and do they deliver? Is it really possible that a supermarket brand such as Olay can halt the 7 signs of aging? Well quite frankly I doubt it given the ingredients. So what indeed can a product such as this can do for your skin?

Olay falls into the category of a cosmetic which is classed as a product that helps to maintain the surface of the skin. The ingredients don’t pass through the stratum corneum and as such are active only on the top
layer of skin which means they don’t stimulate any structural changes in the deeper layers of skin. What cosmetics can do is maintain the moisture level on the skin by blocking water loss and nourish the top layer of skin with herbs and nutrients. This is ideal for dry, dehydrated and normal to oily skin with no significant issues. However, if you want results for skin conditions or slow ageing, you are going to need more than a cosmedic.

Cosmeceutical products contain “active” ingredients which are capable of treating beyond the surface of the skin. They are used by beauty therapists and skin professionals to bring about skin change results where
there are conditions such as premature ageing, pigmentation, acne and rosacea. Ingredients that you may recognize that are considered cosmeceutical include active AHAs, retinoids, and some herbs among others. I also think that many oils such as bilberry, sea buckthorn seed oil, acai pulp oil, lingonberry seed oil and tamanu nut oil fall into this category as they are high in natural phytonutrients such as carotenoids, tocotrienols and essential fatty acids that help maintain and improve the health of skin cells.

The newest category of product is called cosmedical which are really just hyped up cosmeceutial prdoucts. They may employ advanced delivery methods ensuring the benefits are delivered as deep as possible into
the skin, higher strengths ingredients or contain clinical trialed ingredients. Therapeutically they can target past and present skin damage. They may also have a preventative affect to some degree and help slow the ageing process. Ingredients that you can look for include AHAs, retinoids, newer forms of vitamin C such as Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, peptides, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and SPF technology (micronized zinc
oxide).

Please let me know if you have had any experiences with skin improvement using cosmeceutical or cosmedical products or ingredients.