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Last month I posted a blog about Story of Cosmetics. This video has caused big waves, particularly in the US where lobby groups work hard to maintain the toxic status quo. I am please to say the ground swell against toxic ingredients in everyday products is growing. Over 200,ooo people have watched the Story of Cosmetics since its launch on July 21st. What a great response! Not only did people watch but they responded, grateful for raising this issue as a topic for debate.

Stacy Malkan from the The Huffington Post has written an update about why the video was made in the first place. You can read the full article here but to summarise the key reasons she cites are:

1. Cancer Prevention - getting potentially toxic products out of our everyday skin care isn’t just a good idea it is essential. As quoted in Stacy’s article, “The true burden of environmentally induced cancer has been grossly underestimated. With nearly 80,000 chemicals on the market in the United States, many of which are used by millions of Americans in their daily lives and are un- or understudied and largely unregulated, exposure to potential environmental carcinogens is widespread.” These statistics aren’t just isolated to the US. In Australia we face exposure to similar levels of potentially toxic chemicals and with similar regulatory controls (or should I say lack of regulatory control!)
2. Getting carcinogens out of baby shampoo makes good sense – just because it is a tiny amount doesn’t mean it is ok. Babies are tiny and they don’t have the same resistance to toxic chemicals that adults do (and even then, why would you want to expose anyone to toxins). I have spoken to many mothers who say they didn’t care about using organic and natural products until their baby was born. Then it becomes essential.
3. We believe in a better way - as Stacey writes it is possible to have a thriving cosmetics industry and use natural ingredients, or at the very least non-toxic ingredients. However, in order to achieve this, we have to change. And as consumers we have buying power which influences all business, from small to big. The other way to encourage change is through regulation. As Stacey writes, “Manufacturers are slow to embrace change — if they embrace it at all. The only answer is regulation that forces industry to consider the potential health effects of any and all ingredients used. The priority has to be our health.”

It is so heartening to see the impact the Story of Cosmetics is having and indeed the positive influence that can be had using social media. Keep it up I say! Please let me know what you think about this topic.

If you didn’t get to watch the video, here it is again:

Coffee is my one serious addiction. I have tried to cut it out but failed miserably. I have one cup of black espresso a day (and about once a month a second which leaves me jitter and not quite right for the rest of the day). My naturopath friend Ben Brown wrote about the psychoactive effects of coffee in his recent blog titled “Caffeine and your mood: friend or foe?” which outlines how some people feel caffeine improves their mood (me with one coffee) and others feel the opposite (me with more than one cup of coffee). Ben writes that “caffeine can improve mood, alertness, attention and energy. The positive effects of caffeine on mood occur at lower doses (50-100 mg) and may be limited to regular caffeine users.” However, caffeine may also be “detrimental for people with anxiety, particularly if you are sensitive to caffeine or consume high amounts (300 mg or about 3-4 cups of tea or 2-3 cups of coffee).”

Of course if you consume too much caffeine from coffee, tea or soft drink can also cause skin problems, particularly dehydration. Caffeine is a diuretic which means it encourages the body to expell water via urine. If you drink a lot of caffeine containing drinks and don’t top up with water, it is highly likely your body and therefore your skin will be dehydrated. 

It is a different story when applying caffeine topically - for a start isn’t addictive!  As mentioned in a previous blog, caffeine can help to stimulate local fat metabolism increasing lipolysis (fat burning) which may help with cellulite. Read full article here.

Caffeine may also have a positive effect on the delicate skin around the eyes. The skin around the eyes is different from skin elsewhere on the body for a number of reasons:

When applied to the tissue around the eye area the stimulating effect of caffeine helps to tighten the skin by reducing capillary permeability (leaky blood microvessels) and increases constriction thereby moving the fluid away from the eye area. This effect has been shown to help with puffy bags which are characterised by fluid build up and leaky microvessels. I want to note that there is a difference between puffy eyes and skin sag or fat deposits below the eye. Usually puffy eyes will be worse in the morning and clear up as the day progresses. So to be clear, it is unlikely that caffeine will have any impact on skin sag. At this stage I am not sure if it will assist with fat deposits under the eyes despite the stimulating effect it has on lipolysis as there just isn’t enough research to indicate a positive effect.

Eye care products that contain caffeine may also help with dark circles due to their ability to reduce capillary permeability however, dark circles are notoriously difficult to treat topically and can often be the result of other health issues.

Caffeine can be included in eye care products in the form of caffeine-rich green tea, however, this won’t be as effective as use of coffee or pure caffeine. Lavera My Age Intensive Eye Cream incorporates organic caffeine from coffee and Fair Trade organic green tea to ensure a stimulating effect.

As to my own caffeine use, I am going to relax and enjoy my one cup of coffee a day and on the days that I need it, instead of a second cup, apply some caffeine containing eye cream to my eyes. Please let me know if you have had any experience with caffeine containing products and what results you got.

If you read my blogs regularly you will likely know that I have sensitive skin. In recent years, this hasn’t been such a big problem for me but I am regularly asked how to manage sensitive skin. In this video I review why sensitive skin occurs, how you can help minimise skin reactions using topical ingredients and what dietary and lifestyle changes you can make to help improve your skin. I have also previously written a Sensitive Skin Information Page about sensitive skin which you can review here.

Sensitive Skin Solutions

Blow drying my hair creates a fluffy poodle look I just don't love

I went to the store yesterday with wet hair. When commented upon, I replied that using a hair drier just made me look like a poodle. The other problem I have with using hair driers is that they make my hair even more dry than it normally is. Curly hair tends to be dry and mine is no exception so to counteract this tendency I use rich shampoos, minimise hair washing to twice a week and ensure I get heaps of good oils in my diet. Whether you have dry, normal or oily hair, there are some key ways you can look after your hair.

You are what you eat

We’ve heard it all before, but nutrition is key when it comes to healthy, shiny hair. Why? Because hair not only depends on a constant supply of blood and oxygen, but also nutrients, and a deficiency in these nutrients will show up on your skin, hair and nails. Brittle, dry or dull hair that easily breaks is therefore a tell-tale sign of poor nutrition. Eating protein three to five times a week will help maintain hair colour and texture, while keeping a close check on sugar levels will also help – high sugar consumption creates a higher demand for B group vitamins, which can also affect your locks. On top of this, an imbalance between good and bad fat consumption can either lead to an overly dry and flaky scalp and dry hair or excessive oil production. Correcting the imbalance will help to normalise the health of the scalp and the relative dryness or oiliness of the hair.

It’s all in the suds

The type of surfactant in your shampoos may also be wrecking havoc with your locks – those containing sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphate contribute to irritated and dry scalp and hair issues. Softer surfactants such as decyl glucoside and coco glucoside or coco betaine are better choices.

Simple styling

Try to avoid conditioners and stying products containing added silica as this will build up on the hair shaft and create ‘artificially’ shiny and silky hair. These products also increase the need to wash hair, which in turn dries the hair out, creating a cycle of poor hair management and ultimately poor hair health.

Blow-drying or straightening your hair, if done excessively, can also cause damage, weakening the hair shaft. The less you dry and straighten, the better the hair condition will be. In conventional styling products synthetic plastics such as PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone polymer), acrylic copolymers, VA (vinyl acetate), polymer and acrylamide polymer are used as holding agents, all of which are synthetic petroleum-based plastics. While these may not be specifically damaging to your hair, they are not environmentally friendly and are easily absorbed through the scalp, contributing to the total toxic load your body has to deal with. Instead look for natural products containing beeswax or coconut oil and sugar biopolymer-based products instead of hair spray or mousse. The natural wax products will also help to keep the hair shaft moisturised.

Wash less often

Most people wash their hair too often, stripping back the protective oils from the scalp and hair. If your scalp is dry or itchy try waiting an extra day before washing, allowing the sebum to protect the scalp for longer. Washing twice weekly for normal to dry hair is a good benchmark – obviously oily hair needs to be washed more frequently.

If you have any great hair tips please let us know.

Read other articles on this topic:

• Hair Health & Common Issues with Styling Products
• SLS free shampoo & silica free conditioner
• The chemicals in clean hair
• Hair washing and scalp care

Pea, hibiscus & gum may sound like a strange mix for skincare but these are the origins of some of nature’s potent anti-aging ingredients. With different effects on skin from the likes of vitamin C, A and AHAs, these ingredients enhance traditional cosmeceutical products rather than replacing them:

• Pisum Sativuum is an extract from the leguminous Pea plant. The molecule stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and protect the dermal and epidermal proteins which directly impact on skin firmness and elasticity. This is considered an “anti-wrinkle” active ingredient.
• Hibiscus Esculentis is another active constituent wihci is rich in oligopeptides. They have a “botox-like” activity on the skin by naturally relaxing the muscle. This directly impacts by smoothing expression line sand slowing down the deepening of expression wrinkles.
• Natural Active Acacia gum – An exudate obtained from stem and branches of Acacia tree. Acacia tree plantation reduce deforestation and desertification; helps local actions integrated in a Sustainable Development program. This ingredient provides an immediate tightening effect so is great if you have an event or wake up on the wrong side of bed as it will help to smooth skin. The other ingredient that has the same immediate tightening effect is Argania spinosa extract which also has a longer term biological effect particularly on neck wrinkles.

La Mav - using new & novel anti-aging ingredients

A few ranges are taking advantage of these ingredients, including them in new cosmeceutical ranges. In particular, La Mav has a focus on sustainable plant extracts that have anti-aging effects but are also good for your skin by being organic & natural.

So from the La Mav range for an immediate tightening effect, go for Line Perfector and as a complete treatment serum, choose Line Smoothing Serum.

So when can you start to see results? Your skin should start feeling soft and supple very quickly, within 1-2 days. If you are using products with Acacia gum or Argan you will see immediate effects. With continued use you will start noticing the positive changes in your skin within 1-2 weeks.

This month (August) with any phone, mail or internet order you receive a complimentary La Mav sample and $10 La Mav dollars to use with your next La Mav purchase. View the La Mav range.

Makeup in the car - bad idea!

I was recently berated by a well-meaning friend for applying makeup in the car on the basis that it is dangerous. This is true but in my defence I only apply makeup when stopped at the lights and I have only had one car accident while applying mascara…ever! (I was in a traffic jam and didn’t put my foot on the brake so bumped into the car in front – no damage to either car but I was red-faced). This got me thinking about whether the car is actually the best place and I decided probably not. Supporting this decision were some interesting experiences I have had while applying makeup in the car:

• 

  Clockwork Orange

  Once when applying mascara in the car, I put sunglasses on immediately afterward and then swept them up onto my head. Little did I know that the mascara was still wet and it completely smudged my upper eyelids creating a Clockwork Orange effect. I was dropping my sister off to school at the time and wondered why all the other parents were looking at me strangely. Back in the car, I was mortified. I now make sure my mascara is dry before I leave the house…or car.

• One evening occasion, I pulled out the wrong foundation powder and spot reapplied make up. Given the poor lighting conditions, I didn’t realise I had multicoloured foundation all over my face. I looked like I was aiming for a camouflage effect. Fortunately the friend I was visiting told me immediately…well as soon as she stopped laughing.
• 

  Bad Hair Day

  Brush my hair…ever. I think some madness came over me in this circumstance. After the beach one day I decided to brush my hair then drove to the shops with all the windows down. My hair is curly and without product is frizzy so combined with salt water, by the time I reached the shops, I looked like Young Einstein.

Pondering my makeup mistakes lead me to bad habits. I think the only significant habit I have that affects my skin is hot showers but there are a few others that may contribute to skin complaints. In no particular order these are bad habits to avoid:

1. Going to bed with your makeup on. This is a no-no particularly if you have congested, acne-prone or oily skin. Leaving makeup on stops your skin breathing and repairing properly at night. It can also contribute to congestion. I know it is cold at the moment and washing off makeup is often the last thing you feel like doing but think about how clean your skin will feel. It is worth it.
2. Exfoliating too frequently. Exfoliating 2-3 times a week is ideal. Any more than this can cause the skin to react by thickening in response which is the opposite effect than is generally desired.
3. Not drinking enough water. We all know it but too little water can contribute to dehydrated skin. I am substituting a couple of glasses of water for herbal tea at the moment which is fine. Coffee and soft drink don’t count as substitutes!
4. Not taking the weather into account when buying a new moisturiser. I know I probably bang on about this but winter in Australia is drier and so we need richer moisturiser. And in summer, go for a lighter lotion. Listen to what your skin is telling you…if it feels dry and tight even after applying moisturiser, you probably need to change to a richer cream. If it feels oil, go for a lighter lotion.

That’s it from me. I don’t want to sound too much like I am on a soap box…not after I admitted to applying make up while driving! Do you have any bad habits or makeup mistakes you want to share. I would love to hear about them.

Launched on July 21st, The Story of Cosmetics is the brainchild of Annie Leonard, a campaigner for safe cosmetics. This video may look cute but the message is serious – get toxins out of our skincare! Annie discusses how cosmetic companies get away with including ingredients that are potentially carcinogenic (cancer causing) in products such as baby shampoo and flow on effects of such action. The Story of Cosmetics will help spread the word to millions of people and in turn help effect the changes needed to ensure all the products we use are safe for us and our families.

At Vitale Natural we completely support Annie’s message and only stock toxic free skin care. Help spread the word by telling your friends about “The Story of Cosmetics“.

If you read glossy magazines you could easily assume that women are terrified of growing old, or maybe I should say, looking old, spending millions on cosmetic procedures such as botox, liposuction and anti-aging treatments. Popular culture would have us believe the older women get, the less attractive and useful they feel. Fortunately, for most women this is all rubbish (thank goodness). Ask most how they feel about aging and most will confess to wanting to look younger but not 21 again. Women will initially say they want to look 5 or 10 years younger but when questioned further, most say they just want to look good for the age they actually are.

Far from hating growing older, research is showing that yes while women may buy anti-aging creams and treatments in order to slow the aging process, most women are actually more positive about their self image as they move from their 20s and 30s and into middle age.

An article I read called “Could aging be good for women?” by Susan Nolen-Hoeksema outlined that women’s lives overall improve with age, not just how they feel about their bodies but their mental health and life satisfaction also improve. Feelings of loneliness, anxiety and depression were less prevalent among women of middle age than younger women. One of the reasons cited for this improvement in mental and emotional health is the development of greater psychological strength with age. Strong friend networks with trusted people was another reason.

The reason I am writing about this is that this October will be my 20 year school reunion (yes I am 37) and upon receiving the invitation I confess my first thought was “OH MY GOD, I HAVE TO LOSE 5 KG IN THE NEXT 3 MONTHS”. Once I stopped laughing at my own thought process, I started to think about the aging process in general. I am in the very fortunate position to have a 21 year old sister who is in the bloom of early womanhood. She is vibrant, gorgeous and, well young which in itself has beauty. But would I want to be 21 again? No way! Do I even want to look 21? No, I actually spent my 20s having to show ID to get into any pub or club so looking my age is ok. Reflecting on the past 20 years since highschool ended I realized that I am really happy with where I am and that my love of good skincare is just about wanting to look the best I can, right now at the age of 37.

So I have decided that rather than try to lose 5 kg before my highschool reunion, instead I will buy myself a fantastic outfit and enjoy how good I look just as I am. I would love to hear how you feel about the aging process and if you are happy with where you are at right now.

La Mav Line Perfector

P.S.  I do actually have a few secret skin products up my sleeve to help me look fabulous on the night! The La Mav Line Perfector is my top pick for any big event. The Rhizobian Gum helps to smooth out skin and provides a good base for foundation. Minerelle Foundations give excellent long lasting cover that doesn’t smudge or kiss off and Hemp Organics Ruby Lipstick, being a drier formulation, is quite stay-fast. Just a little help for a fun evening!

Baaaahhh! This winter has been a shocker for me with regard to red skin. While mostly OK during the day, at night in heated rooms (it doesn’t help that I practically sit on the heater) my skin flares up and goes bright red across the cheeks and nose. When I say bright red, I am talking Rudolf here, it almost glows in the dark! Not an issue at all during summer, my tendency to Rosacea has come back with a vengeance. There are a few triggers I have worked out make the flare ups worse:

• red wine – yes in my case even one glass
• heating, particularly vented air
• high necked jumpers
• no air flow in a room
• hot drinks (weirdly coffee is ok but tea not so!)
• high stress

Giving it a big miss at the moment!

Even though it is annoying, I am not surprised by this recent flare up. I haven’t been looking after myself. Correction – I always look after my skin by using excellent quality organic skincare, so that’s not what I mean. Specifically I haven’t been looking after my internal and mental wellbeing.  There are things I know clear up my flushing and it is about time I gave myself a little TLC. So here is a list of things that I haven’t been doing but that I am going to do from now on:

• Go back on zinc, grapeseed and resveratrol supplements (Metagenics Oxidant Protection or Blackmore’s Grapeseed are good choices). These nutrients all support skin integrity and capillary health. I haven’t been taking any supplements recently and while my diet is good, during stressful times, it is good to boost up your nutrient levels. This is even more true with skin issues as the body channels nutrients go to the essential organs first (heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, brain) and lastly the skin.
• 

  Yoga reduces my stress & helps with circulation

  Start yoga classes again. I have poor circulation generally and so while my face is burning my hands are freezing. I think it helps to improve circulation generally. For me yoga and walking help. I haven’t been going to yoga and as well as having cold hands, I have been quite stressed. One session of yoga a week was enough to keep me calm (well more calm anyway!).

• Have shorter, warm showers instead of long, hot showers. Whoops!
• Use mineral make up instead of liquid. I had been using a liquid makeup which makes it harder for my skin to breathe. I notice that my skin is less likely to flush when I wear mineral makeup. Mineral makeup also provides better cover.
• Leave the windows open. My Dad lives in Auckland (where it is very cold) and he laughs and asks me if the windows are still open when I complain about the cold. I like to have a bit of air flow as I tend to overheat in stuffy rooms.
  

  Stress worsens my rosacea flare ups

• Use Centella Gel. Centella (Gotu kola) is a herb that when used topically helps to strengthen the blood vessels and reduce vascular hypersensitivity.
• Throw out all my skivvies!
• Take some B vitamins to help support my nervous system
• And finally, get back onto the Lemon Detox Drink. I admit that I find it hard to drink in winter so my solution is to mix in a touch of hot water just before I drink it to take the edge off.

That’s my plan. Well actually I started on Monday and so far this week, no bad flushing incidents so I think I am onto a good thing! If you are prone to flushed or rosacea flare ups, tell us what works for you. I know I would love to know and I am sure others will benefit from the tips as well!